cafoose 3,355 #1 Posted May 20 I'm making a lot of progress installing my SMS-50 sickle bar on my 953 I still need to figure out how to hook up the lift I used a 1/2 inch steel plate for the rear support and a 3/4 inch steel axle I found on amazon. I also used 3/4 inch locking collars on the axle at the front and rear and also on either side of the sickle bar frame. Am I doing okay so far? I'm open to comments and suggestions good or bad. I'm using the outer pulley on the PTO because that is the slowest speed and I read in another post if it runs too fast I can blow out the wobble box. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,883 #2 Posted May 20 It looks like you’re doing a fine job! I have always been ignorant/confused on how the whole system works. Being the soon owner of a couple different sickle mowers, I’m taking my time learning and figuring out. I think it’s a matter of getting my hands on them to see how they really go. Keep it up! I need all the reference I can get! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,230 #3 Posted May 20 I think your headed it the right direction, @Lane Ranger has done a few of these and shold be able to give more information. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,883 #4 Posted May 20 Do you have the manual for this? It looks like it’s a manual lift lever that goes on the wobble box casting. Part 82 in the IPL. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #5 Posted May 20 @cafoose @Pullstart I'm not sure of the differences in the SMS-50 vs the one I rebuilt but here's my tread with some great input from various members. Maybe there's something to help. Sickle Bar Finally - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,177 #6 Posted May 20 Hey Chuck, those hitch spacers look familiar. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #7 Posted May 20 6 hours ago, Pullstart said: It looks like you’re doing a fine job! I have always been ignorant/confused on how the whole system works. Being the soon owner of a couple different sickle mowers, I’m taking my time learning and figuring out. I think it’s a matter of getting my hands on them to see how they really go. Keep it up! I need all the reference I can get! Thanks Kevin, I'll keep updating this thread as I make more progress with plenty of If anyone needs any additional I'll be happy to take some 5 hours ago, 953 nut said: I think your headed it the right direction, @Lane Ranger has done a few of these and shold be able to give more information. I've already been talking to @Lane Ranger about this project and he told me eventually he would get some of his 953 sickle for me. 4 hours ago, Pullstart said: Do you have the manual for this? It looks like it’s a manual lift lever that goes on the wobble box casting. Part 82 in the IPL I have the manual for the 953/1054 SMS-50 but I don't think I saw that one for the SMS-506. Here are the axle and locking collars I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMXDK3O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH3DSXS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #8 Posted May 20 Took the cover plate off the wobble box and looked inside. Had to cut slots in the lower screws with the dremel because they were missing Everything seems to be operating correctly 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,707 #9 Posted May 21 (edited) I have an SMS-50 that I adapted to a C-121. When I got it the yoke in the wobble box was broken, however I was able to weld it back together and get it working again. Now I’m no sickle bar expert, but I quickly figured out that it doesn’t like to run fast. I ran it a little slower and it cut just fine. I’ve said this here before, I don’t even have anything to cut now. I have it because I’m a collector, but when I see a field of tall grass or wheat I want to cut it with my sickle bar!! @cafoose good luck with yours!! Edited May 21 by c-series don 2 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #10 Posted May 21 Does anyone know how long bar 103 and lift bar 102 attaches onto the frame 98 to lift the frame 98? Also at the end of the 103 long bar right by where 102 lift bar attaches the end of the long bar 103 is narrower. What is the purpose of narrowing the end of long bar 103 and where does it fit into? I'm trying to understand how the hydraulic lift of the 953 raises the frame of the sickle bar. I know the long lever that attaches to the sickle bar raises and lowers the cutting bar itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #11 Posted May 21 Does anybody know the size of the drive pulley and the size of the driven pulley for a sickle bar? I'm trying to figure out the correct and safe speed to keep from exploding the wobble box. @Lane Ranger, @c-series don, @wheelhorseman, @Thegearhead0324, @Racinbob, @John2189, @buckrancher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #12 Posted May 21 (edited) Engine is 2.5", driven is 5". I don’t run the engine much above idle with the sickle engaged. Believe me, you'll know far before detonation speed that you don't want to operate it that fast. Edited May 21 by Racinbob 2 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #13 Posted May 21 @Racinbob so according to my calculations the rpm results according to http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/pulleycalc.htm are: The RPM of a shaft with a pulley 5 inches in diameter, driven by a pulley 2.5 inches in diameter, turning at 3600 RPM is 1800 RPM. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #14 Posted May 21 That is correct. But you won't ever run it at full throttle even with the 50% reduction. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #15 Posted May 21 Just now, Racinbob said: That is correct. But you won't ever run it at full throttle even with the 50% reduction. So full throttle I would need to cut it to 1/3 and get about 1200 rpm? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #16 Posted May 21 That would be the engine rpm at 1/3. I need to actually check the sickle shaft rpm at my comfortable speed. You'll know bt the sound and feel. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #17 Posted May 21 4 minutes ago, Racinbob said: That would be the engine rpm at 1/3. I need to actually check the sickle shaft rpm at my comfortable speed. You'll know bt the sound and feel. That would be great information to have for those of us with sickles. Then we could size our pulleys without destroying our wobble boxes. I'm sure Kevin would like to know as well. He's planning on building a sickle mower too @Pullstart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,707 #18 Posted May 21 As Bob said, you’ll kinda know when it’s running at a comfortable speed just by playing around with it. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,177 #19 Posted May 21 When I was checking the cavitation and mechanical balance of Hydro Turbines, I would lay a penny on the 4' thick concrete floors. If it bounced up less than 4", it passed. 2 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,883 #20 Posted May 21 1 hour ago, c-series don said: As Bob said, you’ll kinda know when it’s running at a comfortable speed just by playing around with it. And when you push past that, you’ll also know 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,883 #21 Posted May 21 (edited) 2 hours ago, cafoose said: That would be great information to have for those of us with sickles. Then we could size our pulleys without destroying our wobble boxes. I'm sure Kevin would like to know as well. He's planning on building a sickle mower too @Pullstart I had one, home brew style. I ran a series of reduction pulleys. It was apparently not enough when it self destructed! Edited May 21 by Pullstart 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #22 Posted May 25 Success after soaking the set screws for several days and applying some heat I got the pulleys off It's definitely made for a narrower frame. It fits a narrow C frame perfectly. I'm thinking if I put a longer piece between the plates I can make it fit my 953. I also need to remove the idler shaft to use a larger drive pulley to slow it down since I'm running off the PTO clutch. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #23 Posted June 7 @Racinbob @c-series don @Lane Ranger How's this for slowing it down? 3.25 inches on the PTO and 8.5 inches on the driven shaft The pulley I got from amazon didn't have set screws so I had to get a longer bit from amazon to drill and tap for set screws. The belt I need measured to be 43 inches and that's coming Tuesday. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,707 #24 Posted June 7 That outta do it! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #25 Posted June 8 I got the sickle mounted on the tractor It looks good to me so far Looks like the lift lever mounted to the sickle is too sloppy to lift the bar in the last two pictures. Any suggestions how to fix it? Also, do I need to hook up the hydraulic lift to it? If so, how can I do it? Is it supposed to ride on the ground or do I need to somehow hold the frame up a little? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites