cleat 5,986 #226 Posted Friday at 04:34 PM Hood stand plate and decal ready. Decal taped on. Decal applied. Holes cut out for headlight switch and ignition switch. Last decals applied to plate. Thanks to Terry for all these great decals, my machines would be incomplete without them. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 453 #227 Posted Friday at 06:48 PM 2 hours ago, cleat said: Hood stand plate and decal ready. Decal taped on. Decal applied. Holes cut out for headlight switch and ignition switch. Last decals applied to plate. Thanks to Terry for all these great decals, my machines would be incomplete without them. Hi @cleat is there a good way you use to get them to stick? I had to reposition mine from him on my 312 to line up, and they are now lifting on the edge and in the center of the Toro. I have heated them up but they will stick for a few hours then lift again. I am eventually getting some for my 308 and I figured I’d get the process down first where they will stick well. Thanks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #228 Posted Friday at 06:56 PM 5 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: Hi @cleat is there a good way you use to get them to stick? I had to reposition mine from him on my 312 to line up, and they are now lifting on the edge and in the center of the Toro. I have heated them up but they will stick for a few hours then lift again. I am eventually getting some for my 308 and I figured I’d get the process down first where they will stick well. Thanks! I clean the surface the decal will be applied to and my fingers with this. I think rubbing alcohol would work as well. You just need a clean degreased and dewaxed surface for the decal to adhere properly. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #229 Posted Friday at 06:58 PM Parking brake decal applied to tunnel cover plate. Battery warning decal applied to inside of console. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 453 #230 Posted Saturday at 12:39 AM 5 hours ago, cleat said: I clean the surface the decal will be applied to and my fingers with this. I think rubbing alcohol would work as well. You just need a clean degreased and dewaxed surface for the decal to adhere properly. Could I salvage the lifted parts of the decals by carefully peeling them up and using this, or would it be better to start over? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #231 Posted Saturday at 02:10 AM 1 hour ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: Could I salvage the lifted parts of the decals by carefully peeling them up and using this, or would it be better to start over? I'm not sure. Maybe Terry at redoyourhorse.com could answer that better as he makes the decals (well, mine at least). 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 453 #232 Posted Saturday at 02:50 AM 39 minutes ago, cleat said: I'm not sure. Maybe Terry at redoyourhorse.com could answer that better as he makes the decals (well, mine at least). Ok, I bought mine through him too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #233 Posted Saturday at 06:15 PM Frame guide pins made from 3/8" bolts with the heads cut off. Guide pins installed into rear end. Hardware to install frame to rear axle. I just used the smaller flat washers. Frame bolted onto rear axle. Bolts had never seize applied and torqued to 26 ft/lb. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #234 Posted Saturday at 06:17 PM Hydraulic tube from filter to rear end loosely installed. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #235 Posted Saturday at 06:58 PM Lower steering shaft and steering support ready to install. Lower steering shaft and steering support installed. Shaft greased on both ends where it rides on bushings. Bolts never seized and torqued to 30 ft/lb. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #236 Posted Sunday at 07:38 PM Auto center lever for foot control ready to assemble. Auto center lever for foot control assembled. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #237 Posted Sunday at 08:08 PM (edited) Hydraulic supply hose ready to install. Hydraulic supply hose installed to pump. Edge protector installed where hose might rub rear of frame. Edited yesterday at 03:32 AM by cleat 3 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #238 Posted yesterday at 03:34 AM 7 hours ago, cleat said: Hydraulic supply hose ready to install. Hydraulic supply hose installed to pump. I see I need to clean these fins a bit more. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #239 Posted yesterday at 02:58 PM Hydro fins clean. I don't know how I missed this area during the main cleanup. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #240 Posted yesterday at 03:03 PM (edited) 27 minutes ago, cleat said: I don't know how I missed this area during the main cleanup. Neither do we. We’re generally in awe of your detailing! Edited yesterday at 03:26 PM by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #241 Posted yesterday at 03:49 PM Hoodstand ready to install. Hoodstand mounting hardware. Hoodstand wire and hose retaining clips ready to install. Hoodstand wire and hose retaining clips installed. Hoodstand installed. Foot control auto center lever installed. Overview showing roughly how hydraulic supply hose is to be routed. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #242 Posted yesterday at 04:19 PM 29 minutes ago, cleat said: Overview showing roughly how hydraulic supply hose is to be routed. May want to add anti-chafe where pump supply goes between pump/motor housing and hoodstand/tunnel frame. I used tubing there to make sure I had fixed clearance. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #243 Posted yesterday at 04:59 PM 38 minutes ago, Handy Don said: May want to add anti-chafe where pump supply goes between pump/motor housing and hoodstand/tunnel frame. I used tubing there to make sure I had fixed clearance. I will make sure hose is properly retained and protected. A few years ago I had a hose rupture while mowing grass. What a mess that makes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #244 Posted yesterday at 05:04 PM 5 minutes ago, cleat said: A few years ago I had a hose rupture while mowing grass. What a mess that makes. ‘nuf said! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #245 Posted yesterday at 05:05 PM Hydro belt tension rod assembly ready to install. The thin wall bushing for this shaft is difficult to source but I found that the 5666 Nyliner bushing that is normally used for the PTO lever fits perfectly. I guess time will tell if it will last in this environment but at least they are fairly cheap. Bushing installed into hoodstand. Hydro belt tension rod assembly installed. Hydro belt tension rod cotter pin installed. This rod uses a cotter pin because that is how I built it since I did not have the equipment to cut a groove for an E clip. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #246 Posted yesterday at 05:18 PM 8 minutes ago, cleat said: Hydro belt tension rod assembly ready to install. The thin wall bushing for this shaft is difficult to source but I found that the 5666 Nyliner bushing that is normally used for the PTO lever fits perfectly. I guess time will tell if it will last in this environment but at least they are fairly cheap. Bushing installed into hoodstand. Nice work replacing the probably-worn cross shaft. I was able to get a used one in good shape, but I’ve kept the worn one and will do a shaft replace with it if needed, I drilled out the right side on the tunnel and added a bushing but I did what you did on the left and used the nylon. I figured most of the force would be on the right side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #247 Posted yesterday at 07:47 PM 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: Nice work replacing the probably-worn cross shaft. I was able to get a used one in good shape, but I’ve kept the worn one and will do a shaft replace with it if needed, I drilled out the right side on the tunnel and added a bushing but I did what you did on the left and used the nylon. I figured most of the force would be on the right side. Yes, the shaft was worn so I replaced it with a piece of stainless rod with a hole drilled for a cotter pin near the end. This hoodstand was from a 8 speed machine so the holes for this shaft have never been used before so they are the correct size. That means the left side is perfect as is and I am hoping the nylon will be OK on the right hand side. I have drilled most of my other machines to use a more common 3/8" x 5/8" flanged bronze bushing but I did not want to drill out these virgin holes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #248 Posted yesterday at 07:48 PM Hydro belt tension spring bolt ready to install. Hydro belt tension spring bolt installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #249 Posted 7 hours ago Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports ready to assemble. Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports assembled. Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports installed using liquid teflon on bolt threads. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,986 #250 Posted 7 hours ago Hydraulic oil filter base and elbow ready to install. Hydraulic oil filter base and elbow installed. Hydraulic tubing tightened up on both ends. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites