cleat 5,923 #51 Posted June 6 Removed sheet metal from engine. Removed muffler then removed bracket from it. Bead blasted muffler and bracket. 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,420 #52 Posted June 6 32 minutes ago, cleat said: Bead blasted muffler Do you block off the holes or is that not really a concern? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #53 Posted June 6 40 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Do you block off the holes or is that not really a concern? I made up a plate for the exit, plugged the two inlets and installed bolts in the mounting holes. I wire brushed the exit and blew the muffler out really good when finished. Not much media made it past my plugs and plate. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #54 Posted June 7 Pulled heads. One head bolt was missing and as I feared it was broken off. Luck was with me though as a few threads were sticking out and I was able go get vice grips on and unscrew it. Also, Onan head bolts are the same size so I may use one of those as I have a spare set here. Heads and Cylinders look good, just a bit of carbon. Engine openings closed up with plugs and block-off plates for cleaning. I will reinstall the heads for engine cleaning. I made up a hanger for the muffler to hold it for painting when I get the high temp silver paint. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #55 Posted June 7 Pulled flywheel Pulled charge coil and plate behind flywheel then brushed off loose dirt. Cleaned charge coil. Cleaned plate that goes behind flywheel Cleaned flywheel Starter drive. A couple of teeth are chipped, I don't know if I should replace gear or not. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,420 #56 Posted June 7 1 hour ago, cleat said: couple of teeth are chipped, I don't know if I should replace gear or not. If I had a gear that was better n that one... and if it isn't a pain to change... I'd swap it. But... IF it's only missing a couple and they're separated.... I wouldn't get too awful concerned with hunting one down. All looking good! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #57 Posted June 7 There are no teeth missing, just a few chipped ones. I have a new gear here but it is a black plastic China one so I don't know if that is an improvement or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,360 #58 Posted June 7 The chipped one will last longer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,420 #59 Posted June 7 3 minutes ago, rjg854 said: The chipped one will last longer. I'd believe the same. Seems to me I'd leave the chipped OE metal one in place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #60 Posted June 7 I think the OE one is plastic as well but since it may well be 40 years old and still going I believe I will leave it until it totally fails (which may not happen in my lifetime). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,360 #61 Posted June 7 Probably still better than the one from China 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,729 #63 Posted June 9 On 6/7/2024 at 9:34 AM, cleat said: Pulled heads. One head bolt was missing and as I feared it was broken off. Luck was with me though as a few threads were sticking out and I was able go get vice grips on and unscrew it. Also, Onan head bolts are the same size so I may use one of those as I have a spare set here. Heads and Cylinders look good, just a bit of carbon. @cleat Those pistons half clean and half covered with carbon indicate oil wash. Did you happen to check compression before tear down. Do the cylinder bores show much cross hatch left. Just asking to learn/compare. I did a similar refurb on my sons 312-8 7 years ago. It’s Koehler had oil wash about 20% - 30% across the piston. Still running strong. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #64 Posted June 9 12 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: @cleat Those pistons half clean and half covered with carbon indicate oil wash. Did you happen to check compression before tear down. Do the cylinder bores show much cross hatch left. Just asking to learn/compare. I did a similar refurb on my sons 312-8 7 years ago. It’s Koehler had oil wash about 20% - 30% across the piston. Still running strong. Cylinder finish is very shiny with no visible cross Hatch. Likely should get a total rebuild but since it ran good before with no obvious oil burning then all it is getting for now at least is a cleanup with valve clearance set and new head and timing cover gaskets. It will also get a carb rebuild because it was leaking a bit. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #65 Posted June 9 (edited) Looks like you have the new style magneto, that's a plus in my book. I'd replace the charging stator with a 15 amp style. If you can get your hands on a blown Vanguard you can get what you need from that. The original style charging stator had two circuits, AC for head lights and 3 amp DC for charging the battery. The AC circuit won't work well with LED lights. Edited June 9 by Bill D 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #66 Posted June 9 (edited) Also, modifying the wiring harness is easy. Take the wire from the AC output of the original stator that connects to the light switch and run it to the unused ACC terminal on the key switch. I swapped an M12 into a GT1142. Same basic idea as a Briggs with a 15 amp charging system. Edited June 9 by Bill D 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #67 Posted June 9 1 hour ago, Bill D said: Looks like you have the new style magneto, that's a plus in my book. I'd replace the charging stator with a 15 amp style. If you can get your hands on a blown Vanguard you can get what you need from that. The original style charging stator had two circuits, AC for head lights and 3 amp DC for charging the battery. The AC circuit won't work well with LED lights. I will definitely upgrade the charge stator and wire in the regulator. Entire harness is going to upgraded in that the clutch switch is to be elliminated as it is to be hydro with auto return to neutral. Also the seat switch and the ammeter will disappear be replaced by fuel and volt gauges. I am converting the PTO safety switch to the newer style as well. Also adding tail lights. Headlights will stay incandescent as I will likely never use them anyways. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,420 #68 Posted June 9 22 minutes ago, cleat said: fuel .... gauge From a 520? Or do you have another source? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #69 Posted June 9 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: From a 520? Or do you have another source? Yes from a 520. I wired one into the 312H that I redid a couple of years ago as well. Of all the gauges the 520's came with I find the fuel gauge to be one of the most useful. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bds1984 1,429 #70 Posted June 10 (edited) 4 hours ago, cleat said: Yes from a 520. I wired one into the 312H that I redid a couple of years ago as well. Of all the gauges the 520's came with I find the fuel gauge to be one of the most useful. I'm partial to the tachometer. As a kid, I thought that was so cool and still do all these years later. My fuel gage recently stopped working on my C165 (from a 520) so one fewer cool thing about it. On a side note, I firmly believe that this tractor will be complete long before winter. Edited June 10 by bds1984 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #71 Posted June 10 (edited) 1 hour ago, bds1984 said: I'm partial to the tachometer. As a kid, I thought that was so cool and still do all these years later. My fuel gage recently stopped working on my C165 (from a 520) so one fewer cool thing about it. On a side note, I firmly believe that this tractor will be complete long before winter. I do use the tach as well. I could not fit one in the 312 but that single cyl machine has an engine you can more or less tell how fast it is running. I will not be attempting a tach in the Work Horse either. There are quite a few boxes of complete parts piling up in the shop and I will soon be tackling the frame, rear end, and the main hoodstand needs some welding then cleanup and paint. Hood, fender, foot rests, and side covers will get painted when I get the grey paint. Engine is just started to be worked on and the wheels need finishing (would love to source a pair of 8" fronts that I robbed for the 312H project). I am really trying to stretch this out so I have something to do in the shop during the winter. Edited June 10 by cleat 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,360 #72 Posted June 10 Winter is hopefully a long way off, and with the progress you seem to be making, you just might have to find another project. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #73 Posted June 10 It's rainy here so no painting today. Got the flywheel cleaned up and ready for paint. Top air guide bead blasted and sanded ready for paint. These were painted a couple days ago. Muffler bracket Plate behind flywheel 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,420 #74 Posted June 10 1 hour ago, rjg854 said: with the progress you seem to be making, you just might have to find another project Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,923 #75 Posted June 10 Air guide frame bead blasted and sanded. Lower heat shield bead blasted and sanded. Upper / outer heat shield bead blasted and sanded. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites