Bill D 1,916 #26 Posted May 20 On 5/18/2024 at 9:00 AM, cleat said: Started taking tractor apart. Steering wheel put up a fight but it came off. Pulled motor pulley off because it is too small for the Hydro drive. I have a Hydro pulley from an Onan. You can see the size difference. Problem is the Briggs engine has a 1" crank and the Onan has a 1-1/8" crank. Has anyone successfully used a sleeve adaptor to make this work. I am worried that the pulley will either wobble or get pushed back by the PTO due to the sleeve. I suppose I could drill the sleeve at the set screws so they protrude directly to the shaft instead of pushing on the sleeve. I see you have the motion control arm removed from the hydro in one picture. Could you measure the diameter of the shaft that comes out of the transmission for me. I need to get a speedi sleeve to fix mine. The shaft is rusted and it won't seal properly anymore. I'd like to buy a sleeve before I take things apart so I can fix it quickly, rather than leave it apart for a week while I wait for a sleeve and seal. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #27 Posted May 20 10 minutes ago, Bill D said: I see you have the motion control arm removed from the hydro in one picture. Could you measure the diameter of the shaft that comes out of the transmission for me. I need to get a speedi sleeve to fix mine. The shaft is rusted and it won't seal properly anymore. I'd like to buy a sleeve before I take things apart so I can fix it quickly, rather than leave it apart for a week while I wait for a sleeve and seal. Thanks That shaft is tapered but as far down as I could get to right by the seal the shaft measures 0.7450". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #28 Posted May 20 20 minutes ago, Bill D said: I did that on a tractor. I left the bushing in place and spaced the flange bearing up using some washers. Worked well. I left the bushing in for location of the bearing but it will not be installed when tractor gets assembled. My 520's all have ball bearings installed there but I will try this solid bearing and see how it works on this one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #29 Posted May 20 48 minutes ago, cleat said: That shaft is tapered but as far down as I could get to right by the seal the shaft measures 0.7450". Thank you. Much appreciated. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,688 #30 Posted May 21 @cleat Well what if I told you that I had one off a GT-1800? 😂 You’re welcome to it but unfortunately getting the engine out of where it is now and getting it in my shop to get the pulley off is something that I don’t have time for now. If you’re not in a hurry, like another month or so I would be glad to help you out. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #31 Posted May 21 That would be awesome. This is a long term project so I plan on it being done a year from now. Something to keep me occupied through next winter. Thank you. Cleat 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maz91 202 #32 Posted May 24 On 5/18/2024 at 9:20 AM, ebinmaine said: @Maz91 has a GT1600(?) roller parts tractor. I'm picking it up in a few weeks. If there's anything there you can use I'd be happy to ship it. GT1100 Manual! 👍🏼 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #33 Posted May 24 Did you have any pics of it so I can see what would be useful to me. I know that I will have to make a deal with ebinmaine. Thanks, Cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,421 #34 Posted May 25 19 hours ago, cleat said: Did you have any pics of it so I can see what would be useful to me. I know that I will have to make a deal with ebinmaine. Thanks, Cleat @Maz91 May have a pic or two to share. @cleat. I'd be glad to share whatever is of use to you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #35 Posted May 28 Nothing big to report. Just bead blasting and painting a lot of little parts. Here are a few. I have several boxes filled with little parts that have been restored and bagged. Just getting painting done now so it will be well set by next winter for assembly. 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 455 #36 Posted May 29 Interesting bunch of sun catchers you've got there. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,004 #37 Posted May 29 On 5/28/2024 at 1:29 PM, cleat said: Just getting painting done now so it will be well set by next winter for assembly. Good lawd man! You're dropping a cliffhanger season finale on us! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,656 #38 Posted May 30 (edited) On 5/18/2024 at 9:00 AM, cleat said: Pulled motor pulley off because it is too small for the Hydro drive. I have a Hydro pulley from an Onan. You can see the size difference. Problem is the Briggs engine has a 1" crank and the Onan has a 1-1/8" crank. Has anyone successfully used a sleeve adaptor to make this work. I am worried that the pulley will either wobble or get pushed back by the PTO due to the sleeve. I suppose I could drill the sleeve at the set screws so they protrude directly to the shaft instead of pushing on the sleeve. I used a 3/16" spacer washer behind the drive pulley on this Briggs Vanguard installed on the 316-8. I had trouble with the pulley getting push over on my C-120/180 I had to put a spacer washer behing it. Edited May 31 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,421 #39 Posted June 2 On 5/18/2024 at 10:11 PM, cleat said: When you get it please let me know and we can have a discussion. Thanks Cleat we went and picked up the parts rig from @Maz91 today. I believe we can help you with the upper steering shaft and sleeve. This one still has the steering wheel on. I haven't inspected the wheel closely. It appears solid at the very least. If you could give me decent instructions on how to remove this steering wheel we can get going on it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #40 Posted June 2 I don't need the actual steering wheel. Hopefully by driving out the 1/4" roll pin near the bottom of the steering wheel it will then pull off. If you don't have a 1/4" pin punch then that may be hard to do. If you unbolt the upper dash then the steering shaft should come with it and you can clamp it in a vise to aid in removal of the wheel. Worse comes to worse just sell me the wheel and all. Shipping i know will be higher in that case. I can get you some pics tomorrow showing how I do it. Thanks, Cleat 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,421 #41 Posted June 2 9 hours ago, cleat said: If you unbolt the upper dash then the steering shaft should come with it and you can clamp it in a vise to aid in removal of the wheel That's the piece I hope will help. 9 hours ago, cleat said: If you don't have a 1/4" pin punch then that may be hard to do. I have the correct roll pin punches here. Does it matter which side it's driven from? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #42 Posted June 2 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: I have the correct roll pin punches here. Does it matter which side it's driven from? No it should not. If you look in the hole from each side and the pin is closer to one side then it might be easier to drive it out from the other side towards the side that is closer. Just needs to move less that way. Also a little spray of penetrating oil in the hole may help as well. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #43 Posted June 2 I took a few pictures of a spare steering wheel and the too short poorly drilled upper steering shaft. This is the wheel with roll pin removed. This is the bottom of the steering wheel showing how the shaft simply slides into the wheel then the roll pin goes through the hole to retain it. This is the bad shaft showing what it looks like disassembled. Biggest issue with getting the wheel off is the roll pin being rusted in and also the steering wheel getting stuck onto the shaft due to corrosion. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #44 Posted June 2 Cleaned up the air cleaner lid. Good easy job for a lazy Sunday morning. Lid as found with spray paint poorly applied. Paint stripped off then the lid and retaining knob was polished and waxed. Not perfect but much better. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,421 #45 Posted June 2 10 minutes ago, cleat said: Biggest issue with getting the wheel off is the roll pin being rusted in and also the steering wheel getting stuck onto the shaft due to corrosion Yessir that's my understanding from all I've read. We've been VERY lucky and haven't had a need to remove a steering wheel ..... YET. I'll start a soak on this one today and then see what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,421 #46 Posted June 2 Hey @cleat I won!!! PM me with your full name and address. My local USPS package sending professional (Trina) will box it up and ship it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #47 Posted June 3 (edited) Got rear end and frame to be used for this project separated and degreased. Yes, those are spark plugs in the hydraulic fitting holes. They fit and seal up perfectly for cleaning and painting purposes. Edited June 3 by cleat 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #48 Posted June 3 Throttle cable as pulled. Disassembled. It is cleaned up and in the process of painting now. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,535 #49 Posted June 3 1 hour ago, cleat said: Yes, those are spark plugs in the hydraulic fitting holes. Gotta ask... Assume you checked for spark? As always - lookin' good!!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,924 #50 Posted June 3 45 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Gotta ask... Assume you checked for spark? As always - lookin' good!!! Just don't get any spark and the compression is terrible. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites