Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #1 Posted May 9 Messing with my 414 project and the electrical is screwy. I really should be better at this ! Battery is good, shows 12.7 on my meter. When I hit the key I have 10.3 or so on the small wire to the solenoid in the RUN position ( not 12.7). And again in the start position I have 10.3 I cleaned up and redid the main ground so that’s good. But once the wire that triggers the solenoid is reattached it has no voltage and the solenoid does nothing. That 10.3 volts showing on the meter is gone. Thoughts? The fact that I’m getting some voltage must mean the safety switches aren’t causing the issue right?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,314 #2 Posted May 9 Mike - could you "circumvent" ( PC way of saying bypass) the switches JUST for Test Purposes (of course) to see if the voltage drop is in THAT circuit alone... OK - I'm done "Tap Dancing"..... An E-lectrician with wiring issues is like the Cobbler's kids going barefoot all summer... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #3 Posted May 10 Yeah, got aggravated and walked away. Plan to load up the wiring diagram on my iPad and get into it again this weekend. Came to me with messed up wiring, so it’s going to take some time to figure out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,067 #4 Posted May 10 I would think you shouldn't have any voltage at the small wire of the solenoid in the run position. Plus the low voltage indicates major voltage drop. I'm guessing your switch is kaputski. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #5 Posted May 10 5 minutes ago, squonk said: I would think you shouldn't have any voltage at the small wire of the solenoid in the run position. I agree. Who needs the starter trying to turn once the engine is running. Now, the small/+ wire at the coil, that’s a different story. That said. I’d say you might have a well-past-its-prime battery that doesn’t have the guts to deliver anymore. @pfrederi can jump in with his plaque image 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #6 Posted May 10 9 minutes ago, squonk said: I would think you shouldn't have any voltage at the small wire of the solenoid in the run position. Plus the low voltage indicates major voltage drop. I'm guessing your switch is kaputski. Correct. What’s throwing me off is both having voltage there and the fact that it’s so low. I’m doing all this using jumper cables and my boat battery. I do have another ignition switch here, will try that next time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,994 #7 Posted May 10 Also guessing switch as there definitely should be 0 v in the run position, and voltage drop is resistance somewhere. Voltage drop could be through the wiring and safety switches but the key switch cuts all voltage in the run position 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,067 #8 Posted May 10 Just a thought. Try a different brand meter. I 've had more than 1 Fluke meter lead me on a wild goose chase because it was too sensitive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,182 #9 Posted May 10 10 hours ago, Handy Don said: @pfrederi can jump in with his plaque What is Paul doing with MY plaque? 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,873 #10 Posted May 10 11 hours ago, squonk said: Fluke meter lead me on a wild goose chase because it was too sensitive yep, just picking up stray voltage from the ign switch. but with it off and hitting the key and not getting full battery voltage, I thinking like Mike the ign sw is bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #11 Posted May 10 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: 13 hours ago, Handy Don said: @pfrederi can jump in with his plaque What is Paul doing with MY plaque? Oops. My bad for sure. I’ll owe you a recreational beverage at the Show! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,128 #12 Posted May 10 Mike, we just had a couple solenoids not engaging when we measured 12v at the solenoid trigger wire. Found the 25 AMP fuse holder corroded just enough to pass 12v to the meter, but not enough oonph to pull in the solenoid. Just sayin. Sounds like a leaky ign. switch too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #13 Posted May 16 I don’t have as much time to tinker as I wish I could have…but messed with this one again tonight. Turned out the low oil relay wasn’t closing. Oil is right up to the full mark. Bypassed that and she turns over and starts/stops as it should 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,994 #14 Posted May 17 1 hour ago, Sparky said: I don’t have as much time to tinker as I wish I could have…but messed with this one again tonight. Turned out the low oil relay wasn’t closing. Oil is right up to the full mark. Bypassed that and she turns over and starts/stops as it should So you can do electrical work and diagnostics! Who'd a thunk that? LOL Nice job hunting it down Mike. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #15 Posted June 9 More questions: This Magnum 14 has the weaker 3a charging system. I’m used to metering out the stronger 15a charging systems. What should I see at the battery when running? Engine off it was 12.5/12.6….running at full RPM’s it was 12.9v. Is that correct? Doesn’t seem like it is but I’m not familiar with this type charging system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #16 Posted June 9 And here’s what’s coming outa the motor….idle speed and full speed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,067 #17 Posted June 9 Never worked on one but that's probably all she wrote! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #19 Posted June 9 23 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Great info!! Thanks!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #20 Posted June 29 At the WHS last weekend I found a guy with a Magnun 14 with a hole in the block…but it had the better charging system than mine…so I bought the stator, regulator, flywheel and other associated parts to convert this one to the better HD charging system. Apparently the weaker charging system comes with one less flywheel magnet 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #21 Posted June 29 Good grief!! Getting the wires out of the raceway was tough…and getting the new ones in is even tougher! Any tips? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,067 #22 Posted June 29 12 minutes ago, Sparky said: Good grief!! Getting the wires out of the raceway was tough…and getting the new ones in is even tougher! Any tips? Call an electrician!!! Spray a little silicone on the harness. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #23 Posted June 29 So I had to streamline the tape joint, pull like my life depended on it….and what really got it in were some choice “descriptive words” 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,314 #24 Posted June 29 Ok, it seems I have been successful!! 12.x not running and 14.x running 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,182 #25 Posted June 30 17 hours ago, Sparky said: Getting the wires out of the raceway was tough…and getting the new ones in is even tougher! I don't think it was ever intended to be replaceable without removing the bearing plate, nice going there. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
