The ballad of Sir Wally the RJ58

[Pullstart 62,834]

On 6/3/2024 at 10:38 AM, OoPEZoO said:

 

I picked up a blind hole bearing puller set from Amazon and had mixed results.  Some came out easy, some did not.

 

The one above was the worst offender.  I tried everything I could, but it wouldn't budge.  I finally gave up and drilled a hole through the plate on the back side and punched it out.  It had a lot of rust on the back side that was holding it tight.  I'll just back the hole with some copper and fill it with the MIG welder before I start reassembly.  Overall, the side plates cleaned up pretty nice.  It bugs me that those bearings seat tight against the side plates.  You can see the wear from the inner races spinning against the plate.  On reassembly, and if I have the clearance, I may put some thrust washers in there or maybe just relieve some metal with a die grinder to give the replacement bearing inner races come clearance.

 

 

 

I’m not positive if this would work or not, but hydraulic (grease) pressure does wonders for pilot bearings in crankshafts.  Fill the hole with grease, find an appropriate sized punch to completely seal the bearing hole and pound away.  It should create massive pressure behind the bearing to drive it out.  I realize you already came up with a solution for this one, but I figured it might help someone in the future.  

[Pullstart 62,834]

On 6/3/2024 at 10:38 AM, OoPEZoO said:

 

I did see this wear on the inside of the housing.  I guess this is what happens when all of your bearings and bushings wear out and you wait too long to fix it.  Everything gets so sloppy, that the main diff gear starts eating into the case.  I believe that explains the damage I saw in the rest of the transmission.  I'm sure it added a ton of drag and accelerated the wear on the other parts.

 

 

On my ceiling hanger Suburban, I pulled the case apart to clean all the grease and oil out of it before hanging above the pool table.  That case looked the same, but going back together that was the only spot that had clearance.  I wonder if some castings were just thicker than others, and that was a machined (crude, yes) clearance?

[OoPEZoO 521]

I suppose that’s possible.  It certainly is “crude”, but why not…..it was the 50’s and manufacturing was a different animal. My buddy was over last week and was kind of chuckling at the lack of pretty welds on the RJ. Then I pointed out that it would have all been stick welded because I doubt they even would have had access to a MIG at that point….and the fact that that they might be ugly, but they have survived just fine for almost 70 years of abuse and neglect. 

[OoPEZoO 521]

I've had a little more progress this week.  I cleaned up the parts that Jake sent me.  They were all in good shape, but had some surface rust from shelf sitting.  That was no big deal.  The one shaft still had a bearing on it and I was having a hell of a time getting it to come off.  I didn't have a bearing puller that fit properly, and didn't have a 2nd set of hands to help, so time to improvise.....and it popped right off.  I don't think I've used that ball joint separator in 20+ years.  Glad I still had it.

 

 

I'm running out of parts to run through the E-tank.....Which is a good thing!  The frame, rear wheels, and hood are really the only thing left that I haven't messed with.  

The other thing that I've been scratching my head about is the implement lift arm.  This one has been cobbled together with some spacers, bent parts, and extra springs.  Its pretty ugly

 

 

It actually has a spring that goes around the plunger rod the full length of the rod and has a roll pin you can see there just as it exits the bottom of the tube.  The spring is broken, and most of it is stuck in the tube, plus the rod is broken from where it was drilled off center for the roll pin.  Good old PO fix for something that probably would have been easier to fix properly.  Oh well.  I pulled the rod, and small broken section of spring out.  Then put the whole assembly in the E-tank.  Hopefully it eats enough of the crud that I can remove the rest of that big spring.  I didn't want to pull the rubber grip off, but then found this morning that they are still readily available.  Getting that grip off without fear of damaging it should make fixing up the rod assembly a lot easier.  I'm assuming I will make my own replacement push rod, as they don't look readily available.

 

Speaking of making my own parts.  I assume I will also be doing that with a replacement clutch rod and steering link.  The ones on this tractor are deteriorated beyond use, but they are good enough to use as a template to make my own replacements.  I'm just not sure if I want to go with mild steel or stainless.  Actually, for the clutch rod and steering link, I may just use threaded rod and heim joints.  I'm more interested in functional over correctness at this point.  I can always revisit it later and replace with "correct" parts if I ever decide to go that route.

 

On a happy note.....I did some reassembly.  I pressed the new brass bushings into the differential case, and reassembled that part of the transmission.  I shot a little oil on the moving parts and spun it by hand.  Everything glides nice and smooth.  That was a nice little win on the afternoon.  Now I gotta get that drill hole I made in the side plate welded up and think about purchasing some primer and paint.  I'm still fighting myself over if this is all going to be done with a rattle can or if I feel like tackling the learning curve of painting with a gun.  At this point I'm leaning towards the can, but we'll see.

 

Then I spent some time in the evening going over the exploded parts view, parts list, my bucket of hardware, and online sources for anything I need for reassembly.  Surprisingly, I think I need very little, and most of what I need is readily available.  The exceptions being, I need a set of front wheels and a seat.  The rest is either regular run of the mill hardware store trinkets or available from sponsored venders here.  So I'll be armed with a RJ shopping list for the big show next week.

 

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,137]

Keith,   I don't know if this lift or parts of it will fit Wally, but it's yours at the show if you can use it.

[OoPEZoO 521]

Thanks Ed, I appreciate it, but I should be ok.  The arm that was on Wally is actually in pretty good shape, just rusty.  Its been soaking in the tank for a few days and I'll probably pull it out this afternoon and clean it up.  I can straighten the locking tab (or easily make new one), the grip and springs are available.  I think I just need to make a new push rod.  Actually, the big question will be how well it all lines up and functions once its back on the frame.  If you go back and look at the initial pictures, the frame has an implement height adjustment bracket welded onto the frame.  I'm not sure if I'm going to cut that off and put it back to original, or leave it alone and just accept it.  That will probably depend on how well the parts fit back together once straightened out.  If it works well, I will most likely leave it.  If its all wonky, then out comes the cut off wheel.  

 

I'm hoping I'll be done with the E-tank this weekend.  Then I can move over to the blasting cabinet and hopefully start priming some parts.  I'd really love to get the transmission back together ASAP so I can set it aside and make some more room to work.

[OoPEZoO 521]

Chipping away.....Pulled the lift arm from the E-tank and managed to clean it up and get the rubber grip off without any drama.  Its actually in pretty good shape and could probably be put back on once I get that far.  The most important part was that I managed to get the rest of that big spring out of the arm.  It broke into a few pieces, but it all came out without too much trouble.  I just used the back end of a long 3/8" extension and drove it out.

 

The first half

 

Aaaaaand the other half

 

I put a few more pieces back into the tank for a 2nd soak.  Mainly the slot hitch, as the mounting pin is completely frozen in place.  I really think I'm going to have to cut it off and weld on a new tube.  The other ugly item was the tool box.  It still had a decent amount of rust built up due to the orientation I had soaked it last time.  I flipped it and turned it 90 degrees, so hopefully it will take care of the rest.  If not, I'll take it over to the blasting cabinet to clean it up.  I also tossed the steering wheel in.  Its actually in pretty good shape.  I should have taken some pics.  There are a few minor cracks in the rubber grip, but its all there and relatively straight.  My plan is to fill the cracks with PC-7 and smooth it all out.  I'm kind of looking forward to that as I've seen some of the work others have done on here and I'm curious if I can get similar results.

 

Other baby steps.  I grabbed the transmission side plate I drilled a hole in and patched that up.  I don't think anyone will notice once it has a little primer and paint

The offending hole

 

Little shot with the MIG

 

Little shot again from the other side

 

And a little gentle touch up with a flap wheel.  I also touched up the inside using a small detail burr on the die grinder, but I guess I forgot to snap a pic

 

The other thing I did was poked around with the rusted out shower head muffler that was on Wally.  The front face is completely rotted out, but the back cone is solid, but it is also firmly rusted to the steel pipe it was screwed on to.  So, I very gently peeled back the steel of the front piece back to the crimp point, and worked my was around the face of the muffler.   Eventually, one of the pieces I was pulling cracked the crimp joint and I managed to pull the whole face off without any cutting and without damaging the back cone.  I then dropped the back cone and pipe into the E-tank to try and get as much rust off of it as possible before I make any attempts at unscrewing the rear cone.  I'm going to be taking my time that, as I REALLY don't want to damage the threaded cone.  Here is the cone and pipe before I dropped it in the tank

 

I think thats it for now.  I'm very much looking forward to the big show this week.....be ready, its going to be HOT!  I have deals in place for a set of front wheels/tires, and a set of rear AGs.  I'll also have my eyes peeled for a decent seat.  Speaking of which, has anyone purchased one of the steel tractor seats from Amazon?  They look to be almost an exact match to the original RJs, but I was curious if anyone has had their hands on one to compare?  Just thinking of that as a possible backup plan.  Thanks for listening to me ramble.

 

[oliver2-44 9,734]

13 hours ago, OoPEZoO said:

 I also tossed the steering wheel in.  Its actually in pretty good shape.  I should have taken some pics.  There are a few minor cracks in the rubber grip, but its all there and relatively straight.  My plan is to fill the cracks with PC-7 and smooth it all out.  I'm kind of looking forward to that as I've seen some of the work others have done on here and I'm curious if I can get similar results.

 

When you mix up your PC-7 spray some black paint in it.  I learned this from someone else, and it has dried fine for me.  Makes it a very close match.  I like to put blue masking tape on either side of the crack I'm filling, just a 1/16 - 1/8 back from the crack.  Then use a flat file to slowly work it to a close shape .  Finish sand it to blend it in.   

Edited June 18 by oliver2-44

[OoPEZoO 521]

Thanks….appreciate the input. I’ve used PC-7 before, but never for an application like this, so I expect it to be a learning experience 

[OoPEZoO 521]

Made a little more progress yesterday.  I went to work on the wheels next.  Rear wheels are solid, but rusty.  One tire holds air, but they are both rotten beyond salvation.  Thats ok, as I picked up a set of AGs for them at the big show.

First step was trying to get as much grime off as possible with the pressure washer.  This one had a good 1/2" of greasy mess before I started

 

 

Then time to break the beads with my old trusty HF tire changer

 

Then on to dismounting the tire.  I don't use the original mount/dismount bar that came with the changer....its pure garbage.  Instead, I use what is called a Mojo lever https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm.  My motorcycle riding buddy Mitch started a little side hustle making and selling these.  I've had mine for probably 15 years and have changed literally well over 100 tires with it.  Anything from motorcycle, car, tractor.....all shapes and sizes.  Its one of the simplest, yet most useful tools I've ever had.  I highly recommend picking one up if you swap a bunch of tires.

 

You just get the dismount tip under the bead, and pivot it around the top bead....and soapy water is your friend

 

 

 

Then repeat with the lower bead

 

And.....its off.  

 

One rear wheel is currently sitting in the E-tank.  I went to scrape the crud off the sacrificial anodes, and it looks like its about time to start looking for some new anodes...LOL.  Or at least flip it over and start disintegrating the other side of the blade.

 

My other pick up from the show was a set of front RJ wheels with tri-ribs on them.  They are in pretty decent shape, but I wanted to strip them down and clean them up.  I also wanted to remove the axle bushings and replace them with roller bearings.  So off came the tires and drove the bushing out.  It was "fun" scraping the 65yr old grease out of the hub.  I think I'm going to get some paint stripper and attempt to remove the paint on them.  Only thing that concerns me is that I already know that these wheels have been repaired with PC-7, and I imagine that won't play nice with the paint remover......but the paint that is currently on them is not holding up to just general handling, so I gotta do something.  The plan currently is to strip them down, E-tank them, redo any repairs that need done to them, then a fresh coat of primer and paint.  It should be interesting to see what I get myself into.

 

I also E-tanked the shower head muffler and have been soaking it in Kroil and heating it with a torch daily hoping for a miracle.  I'm not sure I'l ever be able to unthread it.  It appears to be fused.  I may have to attempt cutting the threaded pipe from the inside and see if I can get it to come apart.

 

Thats all for now.  Hopefully the weather holds out decent for next weekend, I'd love to get some painting done.

Edited June 30 by OoPEZoO

[Ed Kennell 38,137]

Keith, that nipple should be an easy removal from the muffler.     I have had good results by cutting the nipple off at the 45 leaving the nipple as long as possible.

Then split the nipple in half with two cuts up to the muffler.   Then use a sawsall to extend the cuts inside the muffler stopping short of the thread joint .  Then clamp 1/2 of the nipple on a vise and collapse the nipple and the part inside the muffler should break free and collapse w/o any damage to the muffler threads.

[OoPEZoO 521]

Thanks Ed….that was my last resort plan, as I wanted to try everything I could before cutting that nipple.  Mainly just because it’s pretty easy to manipulate and handle with all those nipples, elbows, and 45s on it right now.  I haven’t really burned too many calories on yet, as it’s just been hanging out in the vise soaking, but the more days go past, the more I believe that cutting and doing as you said is the the only solution if I want to save it