8 speed axel seals

[87 416-8 horse 420]

I noticed the axel seals were finally leaking on my 416-8. It has 1 1/8” axels. Does anyone know what the part number is for those. I did a little searching and can’t seem to find the correct one. 
Thanks

John

[ebinmaine 67,422]

In the transmission section there's a thread titled "Bearing and seal cross numbers"

 

Here's the first post:

 

 

 

 

 

Click on that and scroll down to the charts. 

The third one is correct for you. 

 

Right near the bottom are the OE and SKF part numbers.  

 

 

 

[rmaynard 15,434]

20 minutes ago, 87 416-8 horse said:

I noticed the axel seals were finally leaking on my 416-8. It has 1 1/8” axels.

 

If the seals are leaking but not doing any damage to the floor below, and you keep an eye on your transmission oil level, I personally would let them leak for awhile.  Yes, I said let them leak. The leaking oil should work its magic and wander down the axles and into the wheel hubs, making them easier to remove, which is the most difficult part of replacing the seals. 

[ebinmaine 67,422]

5 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

 

If the seals are leaking but not doing any damage to the floor below, and you keep an eye on your transmission oil level, I personally would let them leak for awhile.  Yes, I said let them leak. The leaking oil should work its magic and wander down the axles and into the wheel hubs, making them easier to remove, which is the most difficult part of replacing the seals. 

 

 

 

 

The man makes good sense 

[87 416-8 horse 420]

 They were just leaking just a little bit. They keep everything lubed up but now they’re starting to leave a spot on the floor. I’ll check that topic. 
thanks

[stevasaurus 22,717]

I'm sorry to disagree with Bob but doesn't it make more sence that if it is already leaking, the oil is already by the seals??  Also, do you want that oil leaking onto your grass??  

   Use a tool like this to just pop them out.  A carter key puller.  bottom right

 

 

[rmaynard 15,434]

Steve, my point is that if they just started leaking, as he said, then the oil may not have had time enough to get between the axles and the hubs. You are not going to drip enough oil onto the lawn to do any damage. If you are losing that much oil, you may have a bigger problem than just seals, probably bearings as well. I stand by my statement as every dry axle/hub of mine has been a pain to remove, and those that have been leaking for sometime usually slide off easily. 

Love ya mate! See you in June.

Edited May 5 by rmaynard

[stevasaurus 22,717]

Bob, the reason for a seal is to keep the oil from leaking out from around the axle.  The oil is already there.  The seal housing is what holds the seal in the axle housing, not the rubber.  I can see what you are saying if the seal has been sitting for years and is dry, but that is not what is happening here.  Not really an issue...they are leaking and need to be changed.  

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

I agree Bob.  Anything You can do to aid in the removal of the hubs should be done.    I would even remove the set screws and fill the holes and the axle/hub joints with penetrant .

Then mow with the set screws locked loose to act as plugs to keep the penetrant in to do it's work to loosen the hubs.

[c-series don 8,688]

And I agree with Ed and Bob!! Letting a little oil leak out and get in between the hub and the axle isn’t a bad idea. Ed’s idea is great too! Anything to help break the bond. 

[ri702bill 8,316]

And - now to move onto the "elephant" in the room... IF you have excessive up & down play in the axle / bearing, the seal is the victim, NOT the cause. If the bearing is bad, the unidrive comes apart....

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

And - now to move onto the "elephant" in the room... IF you have excessive up & down play in the axle / bearing, the seal is the victim, NOT the cause. If the bearing is bad, the unidrive comes apart....

Agreed Bill, but I would still use it for a couple mowings to try to loosen up the hubs.  Then jack it up and measure the radial axle movement to determine bearing condition.   The hubs need to come off either way...seals or seals and bearings.

 

And John, when you get ready to remove the hubs, there is much good info here on how to do that and more importantly what NOT TO DO.  

[87 416-8 horse 420]

Thanks everyone for your responses. I’ll find my seal and get them ordered. I’ll keep you guys updated on the progress.

[stevasaurus 22,717]

Axle seals for your 1 1/8" axles is SKF 11050.  

[87 416-8 horse 420]

Tomorrow I’m going to call a couple places to get my seals. I do have a question about the dip stick. It has no cross hatch and it appears to be broken but I don’t know for sure. The OP could have put a different dip stick it too.

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

2 hours ago, 87 416-8 horse said:

I do have a question about the dip stick. It has no cross hatch and it appears to be broken

You may have found what is causing the seals to leak.    I remember a problem with the dipsticks rubbing on a gear, breaking off and getting ground up in the transmission.

I'm not sure if this is the transmission.  Maybe others with better memories will chime in.   @daveoman1966

[87 416-8 horse 420]

The hubs put up a fight but I got them off. I used some longer bolts and a axel puller to get them off. Cleaned up the axel shafts with some emery cloth and installed the new seals. I also found the rest of the dip stick in the bottom. I’ll get a picture when I head back out to the shop. Now it doesn’t leave a mark when it’s parked!

Edited May 11 by 87 416-8 horse

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

1 hour ago, 87 416-8 horse said:

I also found the rest of the dip stick in the bottom.

   That's some good news.    If you get a new one, leave it on the shelf and just use it when you check the oil.

[peter lena 8,609]

 @ 87 416-8 horse , check out harbor freight for a PACKING PULLER , screw into a small side seal hole and pull out the seal !  packed hundreds of  tank drive packing boxes , with fresh packing , using those packing pullers .  prefer the bearing puller style of puller , eliminates the flange cracking , you are pulling in its strongest point , not the weakest . pete

[Handy Don 12,212]

9 hours ago, 87 416-8 horse said:

Glad this worked for you, but frankly you lucked out. More than a few folks have broken the hub when pulling on them at the flange. Lots of threads of woe if you care to search for them.

[WHX?? 48,814]

Say what Don?

Looks like he's got the heavy hubs. Be hard pressed to bust one of them. 

Like the puller tho. 

[kpinnc 12,005]

On 5/5/2024 at 12:46 PM, rmaynard said:

Yes, I said let them leak. The leaking oil should work its magic and wander down the axles and into the wheel hubs, making them easier to remove, which is the most difficult part of replacing the seals. 

 

Drip pans are cheap. New hubs are not. Change the seals in 3 months. Just keep an eye on the oil level in the tranny. 

 

Edit- nevermind you already pulled them successfully. I hadn't got far enough into the thread before replying... 

Edited May 12 by kpinnc

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Say what Don?

Looks like he's got the heavy hubs

Never had a set of those. Didn’t realize there were significant differences.

[peter lena 8,609]

@WHX??  https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W84550-Bearing-Splitter/dp/B004X9J4AQ/ref=asc_df_B004X9J4AQ/?tac&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003311&hvtargid=pla-762201453508&mcid=7c756cef70113cbb8454e5d68a8a2713&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxfLr6YuIhgMVwU1HAR2nWQ4m   this the type of puller you want , goes directly at the strongest hold / slide point , also lubricate every possible movement area , like a breaker bar , with a 6 pt. socket , solid no movement  . with side extension stop  to floor , will make for solid smooth slide , also like kroil penetrant , pete

[WHX?? 48,814]

Thank you Pete that is what I reach for these days.