Moparfanforever 844 #1 Posted April 29 At least not at my age. I have this C161 Twin that is going to need plenty done to it and not sure I want to do it. Has a bad leak in the lift system somewhere ,needs tires, seat,really needs rewired, has a ten foot paint job, needs new motor mounts. That is what I have found so far. Someone swapped in an 18HP Briggs, at least that is what the sheet metal says. It does run good and doesn't smoke and the hydro works good. I much prefer the hydro and hydraulic lift tractors over the gear drive tractors. I really do not want to part it out, so it may have to be sold. Still trying to figure it out. I did find this reinforreinforcement plate interesting, never seen one before. Pretty good idea. Did other tractors come with this?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040 #2 Posted April 29 Plate looks original https://www.partstree.com/models/81-16bs01-c-161-toro-lawn-tractor-1978/sheet-metal-and-covers-3-12/ 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #3 Posted April 29 Plates were used on early Tecumseh motors on Wheel Horses supplied with them and the “shaker” Kohler motors on the C models in late 1970s and early 1980s with the 4 rubber bushings on each corner! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 844 #4 Posted April 29 28 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Plate looks original https://www.partstree.com/models/81-16bs01-c-161-toro-lawn-tractor-1978/sheet-metal-and-covers-3-12/ I have been through alot of tractors, first one I have seen. WH probably should have put that plate on all the tractors of that style. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #5 Posted April 29 I’d start with some heavy degreaser and a pressure washer. A little oil goes a long way when it’s not in the right spot. What looks like a terrible leak could just be a bad fitting. 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJ Hamner 1,007 #6 Posted April 29 I got a 416-8 that oil leaking from every possible gasket and seal that had lived in a shed with no door and had been home to critters that had a longing for wire insulation. After a good soak and power wash it didn't look too bad and the wiring, while it was kind of a nightmare trying to find all the different colors and stripes came out looking pretty good. I figured it was worth the effort for a 74 year old retired sailor 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monstrosity 1,127 #7 Posted April 30 I'd say it's worth some elbow grease. The oil seams to have preserved the metal. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,188 #8 Posted April 30 18 hours ago, Moparfanforever said: I did find this reinforreinforcement plate interesting, never seen one before. Pretty good idea. Did other tractors come with this?? I think that plate was only used on the with plastic fenders. Oil leak could be the lift valve, Lowell sells rebuild kits for them. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #9 Posted April 30 New hoses, rebuild the lift cylinder and valve and you'll have a solid worker. Definitely worth saving. What year is the replacement engine? First two digits of the code is the year of manufacture? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 844 #10 Posted April 30 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: I think that plate was only used on the with plastic fenders. Oil leak could be the lift valve, Lowell sells rebuild kits for I guess that would be why I haven't seen one before, this is the one and only tractor I have ever had with the plastic fender pan. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 844 #11 Posted April 30 1 hour ago, Bill D said: New hoses, rebuild the lift cylinder and valve and you'll have a solid worker. Definitely worth saving. What year is the replacement engine? First two digits of the code is the year of manufacture? I am still on the fence about keeping it, but I am leaning more to keeping it and fixing it. I will have to look at the code for the year. I have tried looking up Briggs engine stuff before, it was like trying to read a foreign language. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #12 Posted April 30 43 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: I am still on the fence about keeping it, but I am leaning more to keeping it and fixing it. I will have to look at the code for the year. I have tried looking up Briggs engine stuff before, it was like trying to read a foreign language. Someone here had a chart that explains how to read the Briggs numbers. Also, down load the service manual if you decide to keep it. I personally like twins. Very smooth. I can definitely feel the difference in my hands after an hour of mowing. I have two P216's a GT1642 that I gave my FIL and a GT 1800. The engine in the 1800 is currently out awaiting repair or replacement as it was making some strange noises at idle. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,656 #13 Posted April 30 With a good engine and transmisson the rest, new seat and tires, fix hidrolics, and new wiring. Can be done for less then half the cost of a new Box-Store Junker. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 844 #14 Posted April 30 3 hours ago, Bill D said: Someone here had a chart that explains how to read the Briggs numbers. Also, down load the service manual if you decide to keep it. I personally like twins. Very smooth. I can definitely feel the difference in my hands after an hour of mowing. I have two P216's a GT1642 that I gave my FIL and a GT 1800. The engine in the 1800 is currently out awaiting repair or replacement as it was making some strange noises at idle. Yes, the twins are very smooth. The first two numbers on the code is 91 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 844 #15 Posted April 30 2 hours ago, Lee1977 said: With a good engine and transmisson the rest, new seat and tires, fix hidrolics, and new wiring. Can be done for less then half the cost of a new Box-Store Junker. I can't argue that point!! Probably would be less than half the cost of a new one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #16 Posted April 30 1 hour ago, Moparfanforever said: Yes, the twins are very smooth. The first two numbers on the code is 91 It's a 1991. Much better engine than original. No points, upgraded to a woodruff key on the crank gear, plus 2 extra HP. How do the plugs look? That'll tell you if it's healthy or not. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,916 #17 Posted April 30 On 4/29/2024 at 1:14 PM, Moparfanforever said: I have been through alot of tractors, first one I have seen. WH probably should have put that plate on all the tractors of that style. Keep the plate. Loose the plastic fender if it's going to be a worker 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,688 #18 Posted May 1 Rebuilding the hydraulic valve is a very simple process. I recently did one and it took all of 10 minutes. The hardest part is taking it out and putting it in. It could also be something as simple as an O-Ring on a fitting. As it was said earlier, a little degreaser and power washing will make finding the leak easy. I have the same tractor, I inherited it many years ago. I haven’t used it in a while it’s been hibernating in my basement for about five years. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites