IT'S a D-180 & IT'S all MINE!!

[pfrederi 18,277]

The motion control linkages on a D Series would make Rube Goldberg envious.  They work OK but it is easy for something to slip out of adjustment and cause problems. Also the linage and parking brake linkage changed once.  Download this manula it has a good section on linkage...

 

 

[Southern_Secret 463]

Question? What would be a good suggestion for getting the tank unstuck from the seat pan?? 

[RED-Z06 2,455]

On 4/26/2024 at 10:08 AM, ebinmaine said:

That looks like the newer style twin. Command?

 

Try 2575702S 

 

I failed to put the S on the first time

Looks like K532S kohler or thereabouts

[Southern_Secret 463]

9 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Looks like K532S kohler or thereabouts

As of my knowledge it is the original motor. 

[pfrederi 18,277]

34 minutes ago, Southern_Secret said:

As of my knowledge it is the original motor. 

Parts manual shows two different carb kits.  What is eh spec number for your engine and the serial #

 

 

 

[Southern_Secret 463]

Just A little work done yesterday, got the weight and wheels off & up on stands 

[Southern_Secret 463]

@pfrederi the numbers on the engine are gone so im not 100% sure

[pfrederi 18,277]

Based on the spec number that WH used the most 53105 The carb is variation 14.  However there is split between serial #s   older use 25757 01  later used 257502.  Will look at the serial # on my D200 later may give a clue...

[Southern_Secret 463]

The I.D. plate off the tractor

[pfrederi 18,277]

58 minutes ago, Southern_Secret said:

The I.D. plate off the tractor

 

 

That model number is for a  1975  D180 so you have the K 482 probably spec #35222 and is still carb variation 14. 

 

The break point for 6373508  seems to be in mid 1974.  Hazard a guess you are after that so use the 2575702 kit

Edited April 30, 2024 by pfrederi

[Southern_Secret 463]

The Seat pan & Tank decided to go there separate ways thank goodness 

Edited May 1, 2024 by Southern_Secret

[Southern_Secret 463]

Any suggestions on getting the hubs off?? 

[ebinmaine 70,266]

4 minutes ago, Southern_Secret said:

Any suggestions on getting the hubs off?? 

That's a special science in itself.  

 

A#1. Do NOT use a standard 3 jaw puller. 

 

Any pics of where you're at? 

 

[RED-Z06 2,455]

And dont hit the back of the hubs...

[pfrederi 18,277]

One of the more difficult tasks in WH land.  The body of the hub is much longer than other horses so there is more surface for rust to build a bond between the hub and the axle.  The flange is only slightly thicker than normal.  If you try to pull on the flanges you will mostly likely break it if the hub is stuck on .  You need to pull from the back of the hub.  This is how I did mine a few years ago...never hope to have to do that again.  You will note the square tubing has a bend to it.  It was straight when I started...

 

 

Edited May 6, 2024 by pfrederi

[Southern_Secret 463]

On 5/3/2024 at 4:37 PM, ebinmaine said:

That's a special science in itself.  

 

A#1. Do NOT use a standard 3 jaw puller. 

 

Any pics of where you're at? 

 

Been away a few day cause of a death in the family, but I will get some pics posted soon I hope.

[peter lena 9,051]

@Southern_Secret  good luck with that , to me its a perfect time to save the period patina , with a penetrating oil soak down , think about , once its wet with oil , and the days and weeks or more go by , with more important areas . the existing paint has been drinking in that patina saving lube , ready for a oiled cloth rub down ,  another thing is to look at cracking stress areas , on you to do list , pete