Not starting

[953 nut 55,233]

9 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

I'd try filling it with oil first.

           Low oil level will keep the oil level relay open preventing the solenoid from closing.   

[Brian Taylor 4]

Hello guys, I added oil and the oil light is no longer flashing but there still is no response from the starter. The solenoid is not responding. The PTO light is still flashing. Really appreciate the help.

Edited April 25 by Brian Taylor

[953 nut 55,233]

May want to jiggle the PTO handle while trying to start it.

[Brian Taylor 4]

Tried that, no luck.

[953 nut 55,233]

You are sitting in the seat with the clutch depressed and transmission in neutral,  right?

Time to do a little testing. With the key in the start position does the "Start Light" on the idiot light panel light up? If not you should clean up the terminals on the switch and try again.

Connect one lead of a 12 volt test light or multimeter to your battery + terminal and the other lead to purple wire on the solenoid, turn the key to start and see if there is power.

Move the lead to the light blue wire at the neutral or clutch switch, whichever it has, key to start and see if there is power.

Move the lead to the purple wire going to the neutral or clutch switch, whichever it has, key to start and see if there is power.

[Brian Taylor 4]

I am sitting on the mower with the clutch depressed and the mower in neutral.

I don't recall a "start light" when I turn the key to start, the only light I see is the PTO clutch light.

I did connect the battery+ terminal to the purple wire terminal with the wire disconnected and that engaged the starter. The wire itself has 12.9 volts in the start position.

I have not checked the Lt. blue wire, the light blue wire goes to a neutral switch and ultimately connects to the purple wire (not directly to the clutch switch) according to the above diagram. 

I'll see if I can find where the purple and lt blue wires connect to each other on the tractor. I am not sure where the neutral switch is on the tractor.

If you have any comments before I can get to that I would appreciate that. Thanks for your help.

 

[953 nut 55,233]

4 minutes ago, Brian Taylor said:

I did connect the battery+ terminal to the purple wire terminal with the wire disconnected and that engaged the starter. The wire itself has 12.9 volts in the start position

If the starter operates when a 12 volt jumper is placed where the purple wire connects to the solenoid and the purpled wire itself has 12 volts when the key is in the start position then he starter should turn over from the key switch in the start position.

[Brian Taylor 4]

I wonder if the neutral switch could be the problem. It looks like the switch should be closed and energized in neutral when in the start position. I am not sure how to eliminate if the PTO switch is the culprit.

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

If the starter operates when a 12 volt jumper is placed where the purple wire connects to the solenoid and the purpled wire itself has 12 volts when the key is in the start position then he starter should turn over from the key switch in the start position.

This is interesting Richard.    I have been trying to solve the exact same problem on my 310-8.

It will net energize the starter with the ignition switch start position.       Th solenoid pulls in and the engine starts when I energize the solenoid direct from the battery.

I have pulled the ignition switch and I have contact between the B and S tabs when the switch is in start position.   I have run a jumper from the S tab to the solenoid and it still will not start from the ignition switch.

I have to check to be sure I have 12V coming to the B tab.  Would the engine run w/o 12v to the B tab?

Edited April 26 by Ed Kennell

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

47 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I have to check to be sure I have 12V coming to the B tab.

Found it.   The 25 Amp fuse was OK, but the legs were not making contact in the corroded holder.    Starts fine from the ignition switch now.

[Brian Taylor 4]

Thank you Ed I cleaned the connections on my 25 amp fuse of dust from mowing and storing in a barn, and it started right up. Didn't see any Corosion. 

I thank all that participated in this thread, it has been a good learning experience for me. Great site.

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

2 hours ago, Brian Taylor said:

Thank you Ed  

We are always pleased to hear these  Li'L tractors light up.     As I stated above, I had been working on the non-start issue on my 310-8.  I knew I would find the problem, so I did not ask for help.

Luckily I saw your thread and your tractor had the same problem.       

This just points out how important it is to not only ask for help to solve a problem, but to also relay issues we have solved on our own. 

 

 

[953 nut 55,233]

sounds like the fuse holder was making enough contact with the fuse to move a volt meter but not enough to close the solenoid,            Thanks to Ed @Ed Kennell and @Brian Taylor for letting us know what you found.

[Brian Taylor 4]

I think you are right. I cleaned the fuse terminals and as well as I could in the fuse box and it started right up.