Resurrecting a 414-8

[ebinmaine 67,422]

11 minutes ago, Sparky said:

PTO

WOW is that rough!!

 

 

1 hour ago, Sparky said:

minus the seat, how the heck does that get swapped?

 

3/8 hex "nut driver". Sockets are almost always too large an outer diameter. 

 

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

3/8 hex "nut driver". Sockets are almost always too large an outer diameter. 

 

 Was actually thinking about buying a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8 socket and grinding it down. 

[wallfish 16,994]

9 minutes ago, Sparky said:

 Was actually thinking about buying a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8 socket and grinding it down. 

99% of the time there's no need to change that valve seat. It's a waste of time in my opinion. The Kohler pin has a rubber tip so it will conform to most of those very tiny abrasions that could possibly leak with a complete steel pin type. 

[ebinmaine 67,422]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

99% of the time there's no need to change that valve seat. It's a waste of time in my opinion. The Kohler pin has a rubber tip so it will conform to most of those very tiny abrasions that could possibly leak with a complete steel pin type. 

 

 

1 hour ago, Sparky said:

 Was actually thinking about buying a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8 socket and grinding it down. 

 

 

I change em because I have the parts tools every time but John has a valid point. 

Likely no need for 90% or more. 

 

I DO make it a requirement to use genuine Kohler carb kits now. 

I've seen several aftermarket parts kits with differing seats. 

I've stopped using them after seeing some fail prematurely or even not seal when brand new. 

 

 

 

[Keaton 435]

this is the first time seing this post, but for the engine on my lawn ranger there was a lot of cabon, i got the shop vac out and a plastic razor blade and a small plastic scaper and went to town on that making shure the valuves were both closes, i have not surfaced or plained a head before, my lawn ranger is just about done, i need a recoil spring and will see if it will fire, and my 701 when i opened it up i also found a mouse nest 

[peter lena 8,609]

@Sparky   like your recovery ! noting your carb , grunge . also clean out the fuel tank ?  new valve ?  realize this is a , very sensitive issue , but  since , adding  STA BIL  to all my fuels , I have zero  debris / crud in my carbs , also have 2 filters  in the line , one close to tank  another close to carb , both filters are clean / clear , telling you  something ? add  1 ounce to every tank  refill after use , stand by generator , snow blower , carbs are all clean . Stabil is a storage fuel additive , another thing is that there is zero fuel hose breakdown , nothing . BTW  your PTO clutch clutch plate , area , is great for lucas , green grease , also take off the brake pad on that , my engagement is very smooth / solid / quiet . trouble starts , next to battery , sloppy mount point . good job on that , pete   

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

  Been awhile…but still banging away on this one. 
  Like I said it fires up and runs, but would run good and then run crappy for awhile. Occasionally it would straighten out and then once again start running lousy. Tried a different “proven good” carb from my other 414 but no change.

  @wallfish mentioned something about stuck valve and/or blocked exhaust. 
  Valves (both) seem fine. Pullled the canister muffler and BAM!! Something big was in it! 
  Had a friend that welds take it to his shop and get into it. Seems the exhaust inlet pipe goes deep into the muffler body and inside it’s welded /capped off and has perforations in the pipe (never knew that). The stub rusted off where the perforations are and that chunk was being pushed up against the outlet when the 14 Magnum was throttled up past the 3/4 mark. 
  My buddy got the piece out, welded it back up and I reinstalled it last night. 
  Fed it all the onions for like 15-20 minutes and it never skipped a beat! Just ran and ran and ran  ! 
 

 

 

 

[OoPEZoO 521]

Haha…..i had the same problem but different symptoms with my 314-8 a few years ago.  I had this terribly obnoxious rattle at full throttle.  It has always run great and has never burned a drop of oil in the 20ish years I’ve had it.   First, I thought the bearing was going out in the PTO bell.  Nope.  Then had myself convinced that it was internal to the engine and it was going to blow any minute. I parked it for months until I knew I would have time for major surgery.  Took the muffler off first with intent of pulling the motor and yup, that was it.  Inlet pipe broke off inside and was rattling around in the bottom, but only under full throttle. I made a new perforated piece out of black pipe and welded the original flange onto it.  
 

love it when it’s something relatively simple

[ebinmaine 67,422]

3 hours ago, Sparky said:

Just ran and ran and ran

 

 

Niiiiice!!!

[oliver2-44 9,731]

On 5/5/2024 at 6:00 PM, Sparky said:

  Looks like I’ll simply be replacing it all 

 

 I’d take a wire wheel to that PTO bell surface and see what it really looks like. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

13 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

 I’d take a wire wheel to that PTO bell surface and see what it really looks like. 

I’ll try it…but I have 7 nice ones on my parts shelf so I see a simple swap in its future. 

[squonk 41,067]

That PTO bell needs to be turned into a paper weight! 

[ebinmaine 67,422]

3 hours ago, Sparky said:

I have 7  [PTO bells] 

 

 

Running low???

 

 

[squonk 41,067]

The PTO bells are competing with the snowplows for garage space. Time to build another bay! 

[oliver2-44 9,731]

4 hours ago, squonk said:

That PTO bell needs to be turned into a paper weight! 

I guess with less horse in Texas we try to resurrect parts some of yall would scrap.

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Running low???

 

 

YEP! I was wrong, only have 6.. and ones the older style