Mike'sHorseBarn 2,998 #1 Posted April 20 This stupid hitch pin. Every tractor I've ever torn apart this pin is a big issue. It's been soaking in pb blaster since January and I've heated it and no dice. Probably gonna have to drill it. I'm just here to vent......... 5 1 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,507 #2 Posted April 20 That hitch pin isn't really a design flaw so much as a previous owner's lack of maintenance. They should have been oiled when installed or swapped. Some suggestions. 1. Ditch the PB. It's been proven many times to be less than effective. My experiences show me good Ole fashioned Liquid Wrench is a better bet. Other folks like paraffin or ATF and acetone mix. 2. More heat. 3. Remember that it took 50 years to rust and will take time to come undone. 4. Do you have access to a press or better yet, a large ball joint remover? Some auto parts stores rent them. Really though..... it's just a pin. Replacements are readily available. Yes it's nice to save the old ones when possible but sometimes drilling is the better way. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,577 #3 Posted April 20 (edited) I threw together this puller to remove that last stubborn pin that I had. First I used a Sawzall to cut the pin on each side of the tranny. Then I drilled & tapped the pin that was stuck in the tranny. After that I used this puller to remove the pin. Tighten the bolt on the puller, use a drift to pound on the opposite end of the pin. Repeat, repeat, add more extensions, repeat.... Edited April 20 by Achto 4 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #4 Posted April 20 (edited) Those air hammers have helped me once or twice. Yes cut the slot hitch and take the hitch to the press if needed. Gets the draw bar out of the way too. Edited April 20 by WHX?? 1 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 2,998 #5 Posted April 20 11 minutes ago, Achto said: I threw together this puller to remove that last stubborn pin that I had. Fist I used a Sawzall to cut the pin on each side up the tranny. Then I drilled & tapped the pin that was stuck in the tranny. After that I used this puller to remove the pin. Tighten the bolt on the puller, use a drift to pound on the opposite end of the pin. Repeat, repeat, add more extensions, repeat.... I really like the puller idea. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 812 #6 Posted April 20 i use my ball joint press. snap-on BJP-1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,178 #7 Posted April 20 (edited) I've removed a couple by sawing off the pin like Dan did, but then I bottom drilled a 7/16 hole in the pin from the right side stopping about 1/4" before drilling thru. Then used a 3/8" drift in the hole and a BFH to drive the pin out. The idea is, you are pulling instead of pushing and mushrooming the end the pin. I can see this combined with Dans puller would really work well. Using the drift in a hole does not mushroom the pin like pounding on the end of the pin. Edited April 20 by Ed Kennell 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #8 Posted April 20 1 hour ago, Achto said: This is an inspiring example of thinking outside the box, but shouldn't the washers be between the nuts and the pipe coupler? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,178 #9 Posted April 20 Worst Design? Did you ever have to remove a fuel tank from a 953? 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 2,998 #10 Posted April 20 19 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Worst Design? Did you ever have to remove a fuel tank from a 953? Never although I've had a 953 and can just imagine lol 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #11 Posted April 20 Hitch pin removal (hasn't failed me yet): Take the right wheel off and set that side trans on a jack stand...leave the left wheel on. (1) the hitch pin is soft---cut off flush with Sawzall (2) Center punch and drill 1/8" pilot hole in RIGHT side at least 1 inch deep. (3) Open this 1/8 to 1/4 then to 1/2 or more...drilling deeper each time. (4) Using a pneumatic impact hammer with round punch in that hole you drilled to drive it thru. (5) Reinstall pin using a 3/4" with a big "D" ring like this from TSC....less than $10 bux. Coat it with anti-seize. 6 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,323 #12 Posted April 20 And once done with the removal, the solution is this....... Have these I made on all my Horses - for 10+ years now - remove one retainer clip - push it out with one finger.... 4 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,118 #13 Posted April 20 (edited) Heat / quench. Watch one of Taryl fixes all videos.. Edited April 20 by squonk 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,887 #14 Posted April 20 Nobody had mentioned twisting. As soon as you can get a pipe wrench on the pin, start twisting it with heat and oil/wax and it’ll bust loose much quicker! 4 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,237 #15 Posted April 20 9 hours ago, WHX?? said: Those air hammers have helped me once or twice. Yes cut the slot hitch and take the hitch to the press if needed. Gets the draw bar out of the way too. If the pin won't come out easily I don't even fight with it. Three cuts and move on to the press. Cut both ends off flush with the transaxle to remove the slot hitch/draw bar, cut at the center of the transaxle castings and after the transaxle has been pulled apart take both halves to the press and push the remainder of the pin out of each half. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #16 Posted April 20 I am thinking the early pins were plain steel and the newer ones plated? I have had a couple tough ones, one i cut and one not. I used a BFH and heat on both. I remember having the tire off and using wooden block to support a steel round putting in a good position to swing the hammer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,629 #17 Posted April 20 @ MIKE,S HORSEBARN , standing that on axel end , totally solidly in place , same size solid round stock / hex head bolt / cut off threading , 3/ lb hammer , first solid impact , should tell you what's going on , also like@ ri702bill , s idea , personally never let anything go dry / stuck , always give things a drink , been experiment with 3-1 penetrating oil , cabling , linkage ends , every thing moves . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,577 #18 Posted April 20 11 hours ago, Handy Don said: This is an inspiring example of thinking outside the box, but shouldn't the washers be between the nuts and the pipe coupler? That was the point where I ran out of room inside the pipe coupler. Those are 3/4" washers over the pin. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,178 #19 Posted April 20 Just remembered one other thing I do as soon as I get a "new" tractor. I drill a hole down to the pin in the top of each tranny hitch lug. Then fill it with PB and let it sit for a couple years. After I get the pin out, I tap these holes for a grease zerk. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #20 Posted April 20 11 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: Hitch pin removal (hasn't failed me yet): Take the right wheel off and set that side trans on a jack stand...leave the left wheel on. (1) the hitch pin is soft---cut off flush with Sawzall (2) Center punch and drill 1/8" pilot hole in RIGHT side at least 1 inch deep. (3) Open this 1/8 to 1/4 then to 1/2 or more...drilling deeper each time. (4) Using a pneumatic impact hammer with round punch in that hole you drilled to drive it thru. (5) Reinstall pin using a 3/4" with a big "D" ring like this from TSC....less than $10 bux. Coat it with anti-seize. yes I have been using these TSC hitch pins for years as the replacement pins! I like it so much I might even have to buy a transmission to remove a stubborn original! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 428 #21 Posted April 20 For worst design, I'd submit the six-sided drive belt on some of the 37" two blade mower decks. Rolls easy and tears up fast once it's rolled. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #22 Posted April 21 (edited) 23 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Just remembered one other thing I do as soon as I get a "new" tractor. I drill a hole down to the pin in the top of each tranny hitch lug. Then fill it with PB and let it sit for a couple years. After I get the pin out, I tap these holes for a grease zerk. The same i did when i got it new to me. pulled all Axles they be ungreased by Original and refit it with grease zerks. Even on spindles of Steering or Mowerdeck pulles and also on the Top of the Tranny hitch. On this pict it can be seen on the left side under the gunk. but it‘s still there and must be just wiped off with a towell before each you just can see the grease that flotes outside a little when moving. i have no better picts for now but can it update soon if needed. that saves me a lot of troubles on bolt removing or wear. 👍 To pull it out i use a induction heater and lot of Ballistol Gunoil. @Pullstart ‚s tip to twist it carefully with a big pipewrench 2“ was the go for it. Moving, gently hammering while moving, heat and Ballistol does the trick to loosen it up. Edited April 21 by Tractorhead 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites