Damien Walker 246 #26 Posted May 5 On 5/2/2024 at 3:04 AM, c-series don said: I have access to a press, but it can’t be pressed out because you can’t get to the center of the steering wheel. In other words there’s no removable center cap. If there were this would be a simple thing to press out. I’m worried about damaging the wheel if I have to clamp it in something to drill it. I have a brand new shaft with the gear on it. Hi Don, is it a standard 3 spoke wheel on your C-175?...it is on mine. If that is that case, then I think the centre cap IS removable. I used exactly the same wheel on my 518H rebuild (because I was fitting power steering which tends to lose it's alignment, hence I wanted a circular wheel not the OEM 'modern' type). It may well be that the centre cap is not intended to be removed, but mine came out fairly easily. There are two little notches on the periphery of the cap on mine, that a small electrical screwdriver will fit into...I just levered it out. It sort of clicks back too, not very robustly in my case....but you could stick it in with silicone if it is too lose. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #27 Posted May 5 On 5/1/2024 at 5:15 PM, P3x said: I have to remove my steering pin as well to tighten up my steering. After soaking, I plan to use a Rivet Punch in a "Real" rivet gun with a controllable trigger. I'm hoping a few thumps from my 6X will persuade it out. I have successfully used an air chisel for knocking out vehicle suspension bushes....I wonder whether one would work here? You'd need a suitable punch adapting to fit the gun and you may also still need to brace with a 4x2 against the wall, but they are violent enough and give high speed repeated hammer blows. They jump around a lot too so the punch would have to be a good fit or you'll damage the wheel. Worth a try though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,752 #28 Posted May 5 @Damien Walker Thanks for that advice! I will look at the wheel to see if it has those notches. I also thought about using a pickle fork in the air hammer because that would get on either side of the shaft to get to the wheel. I’ll post when I get back to it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,691 #29 Posted May 5 1 hour ago, Damien Walker said: Hi Don, is it a standard 3 spoke wheel on your C-175?...it is on mine. If that is that case, then I think the centre cap IS removable. I used exactly the same wheel on my 518H rebuild (because I was fitting power steering which tends to lose it's alignment, hence I wanted a circular wheel not the OEM 'modern' type). It may well be that the centre cap is not intended to be removed, but mine came out fairly easily. There are two little notches on the periphery of the cap on mine, that a small electrical screwdriver will fit into...I just levered it out. It sort of clicks back too, not very robustly in my case....but you could stick it in with silicone if it is too lose. My 312 has one of those wheels and they might be removable. but mine is down past the wheel on one side and level on the other. I don't thing it is going to come out in one piece. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #30 Posted May 5 4 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: My 312 has one of those wheels and they might be removable. but mine is down past the wheel on one side and level on the other. I don't thing it is going to come out in one piece. I suppose I should have taken the photo with the end cap removed. Forgive me, I'll do it tomorrow! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelsey 91 #31 Posted May 5 On my C-100 I eventually pounded out the pin, but I broke the cast iron lower steering support in doing so. As a sidenote, I have learned quite a bit about WH tractors here at this forum. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #32 Posted May 6 On 5/5/2024 at 11:42 PM, c-series don said: @Damien Walker Thanks for that advice! I will look at the wheel to see if it has those notches. I also thought about using a pickle fork in the air hammer because that would get on either side of the shaft to get to the wheel. I’ll post when I get back to it. Here you go: 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,482 #33 Posted May 7 If you have cut the steering shaft and can't get the roll pin out try this trick. Move outdoors, heat the end of the cut shaft with a torch until it is glowing red, use paraffin wax making several applications as it cools, the wax and heat should be enough to get the roll pin to cooperate. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keaton 439 #34 Posted May 7 if i wanted to i could have gone that far but it was a nice steering wheel with all the plastic on it so i left it u cant even tell. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,752 #35 Posted May 13 Well I finally got the steering wheel off.After getting the roll pin out, I started with one Port-a-Power but I wouldn’t budge. It took two separate Port-a-Powers maxed out, a large drift pin and a sledge hammer. When it broke free it literally shot across the garage! Luckily it didn’t damage the wheel. I figured I post these pictures, maybe it will help the next guy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,482 #36 Posted May 13 9 hours ago, c-series don said: After getting the roll pin out, Sooooooooo, How did you manage to get the roll pin out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,325 #37 Posted May 13 10 hours ago, c-series don said: When it broke free it literally shot across the garage! Note to self: tether steering wheel when attempting to remove from shaft! 😁 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #38 Posted May 13 18 hours ago, c-series don said: Well I finally got the steering wheel off.After getting the roll pin out, I started with one Port-a-Power but I wouldn’t budge. It took two separate Port-a-Powers maxed out, a large drift pin and a sledge hammer. When it broke free it literally shot across the garage! Luckily it didn’t damage the wheel. I figured I post these pictures, maybe it will help the next guy. Wow! That's some pressure you have unleashed there Don. I'm amazed you didn't bruise the underside of the hub, but well done anyway, you sorted it. As a matter of interest, what state was the shaft and boss in immediately after you broke them apart? My experience is that the two parts are actually held together with little more than habit (the roll pin is similar) and the difficulty lies in getting sufficient grip or force applied directly, to get the joint apart. In the couple of cases that I have had, once properly supported, the pin and shaft come out quite easily... I have a 30t hydraulic press which pushed the shaft out with very little effort, but I simply didn't have the strength to break them apart manually...my shaft and wheel hub being only lightly corroded. Ie nothing to it really. My message to anyone who needs to do this then is that it is not so much the force, but the way it is applied that matters. Well supported smooth pressure will work when vigorous, not properly supported beating, will not. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,752 #39 Posted May 14 @953 nut I brought the whole assembly to a friend of mine that has a machine shop to have him remove the roll pin. He thought he would do it on his lunch break 🤣🤣🤣 and then called me a few hours later and said what the heck is this roll pin made of? He even went online about this and it lead him here! Eventually after breaking several expensive bits he drilled it out. @Damien Walker I put some 3/4” washers in between the hub of the wheel and the Port-a-Power so I didn’t damage the wheel. My wheel didn’t have the notches that yours had to pop out the center cap or I would have just put it in a press. Once apart there really wasn’t any rust on the shaft or the wheel, which kind of surprised me. My brother was helping me with this and he kept saying he couldn’t believe with the amount of pressure we applied it would not budge! I laid a 2’ long piece of 3/4” round stock alongside the shaft while it was in the vice with all the pressure on it and whacked it with a sledgehammer. It made such a noise when it broke free that my wife heard it and came to check on us to make sure we were okay!! I’m glad I got it off and now I can continue with my C-175 restoration, the deadline for the big show is drawing near!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #40 Posted May 14 7 hours ago, c-series don said: @953 nut I brought the whole assembly to a friend of mine that has a machine shop to have him remove the roll pin. He thought he would do it on his lunch break 🤣🤣🤣 and then called me a few hours later and said what the heck is this roll pin made of? He even went online about this and it lead him here! Eventually after breaking several expensive bits he drilled it out. @Damien Walker I put some 3/4” washers in between the hub of the wheel and the Port-a-Power so I didn’t damage the wheel. My wheel didn’t have the notches that yours had to pop out the center cap or I would have just put it in a press. Once apart there really wasn’t any rust on the shaft or the wheel, which kind of surprised me. My brother was helping me with this and he kept saying he couldn’t believe with the amount of pressure we applied it would not budge! I laid a 2’ long piece of 3/4” round stock alongside the shaft while it was in the vice with all the pressure on it and whacked it with a sledgehammer. It made such a noise when it broke free that my wife heard it and came to check on us to make sure we were okay!! I’m glad I got it off and now I can continue with my C-175 restoration, the deadline for the big show is drawing near!! If WH had only applied a smear of anti-seize grease on assembly, we wouldn't be having this trouble! Good luck with your restoration and I hope you have a great show, sadly it is a bit far for me to come to! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wvtroutbum81 186 #41 Posted July 30 I made this for my air chisel, roll pin came out in 3 seconds. then cut slit in steering wheel and used air chisel with a flat tip to open up the cut. wheel came off easy. Steering wheel was broke was only reason i cut it. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #42 Posted July 30 9 hours ago, Wvtroutbum81 said: I made this for my air chisel, roll pin came out in 3 seconds. then cut slit in steering wheel and used air chisel with a flat tip to open up the cut. wheel came off easy. Steering wheel was broke was only reason i cut it. I think the Air chisel is a great solution and I will almost certainly try the idea next I need to. Did you support the shaft laterally when applying the chisel or were you successful just working on the plain tractor. Good one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wvtroutbum81 186 #43 Posted July 30 6 minutes ago, Damien Walker said: I think the Air chisel is a great solution and I will almost certainly try the idea next I need to. Did you support the shaft laterally when applying the chisel or were you successful just working on the plain tractor. Good one! No support, used this method to remove roll pins in the past. Make sure the end of the punch is flat not pointed 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites