stuck steering wheel roll pin help

[Keaton 435]

how do I get the steering wheel off, I have pounded and pounded with a punch, how big is that roll pin, I cannot seem to get it to get it to move at all it is on my 32r lawn ranger 

[Keaton 435]

and would freezing the shaft and the gas talk all as one work or would it crack the plastic on the steering wheel?

 

[ri702bill 8,321]

There has been MUCH discussion on this before - back up the shaft below the plastic hub with a 2x4 propped up to a wall stud. Use a ROLLPIN punch of the correct size, punch perhaps held in locking pliers and hit the punch with a 3 pound hammer. Even with the pin out, they can be stubborn. Fifty or more years or being rusted into place does not come loose in 2 minutes......

[clueless 2,992]

If you have been pounding on it with regular punch, your just making it harder to remove. 

[JCM 9,166]

This is on a 420-LSE, a little different but similar.

[Achto 27,576]

If worse comes to worse you can use a 1/4" carbide bit to drill it out. It has to be a carbide bit, any other will just be a waste of time and a drill bit. A cheap carbide tip masonry bit works. Will not be a fast process, I've found that high speed on the drill works best.

 

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/2634087?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

Edited April 19 by Achto

[ri702bill 8,321]

44 minutes ago, Achto said:

If worse comes to worse you can use a 1/4" carbide bit to drill it out. It has to be a carbide bit, any other will just be a waste of time and a drill bit. A cheap carbide tip masonry bit works. Will not be a fast process, I've found that high speed on the drill works best.

 

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/2634087?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

And as far as pressure on the bit, you have to find the "sweet spot". 

[ri702bill 8,321]

Also - invest in a good set of roll pin punches, like the ones pictured. Cheap offshore ones will lead to disappointment in results and money wasted.

 

"Cheap things are not good, Good things are not cheap" Pick one.......

[peter lena 8,627]

@Keaton  agree  with others on above methods , impact bounce , is not what you want , done that wall beam set up , myself , and a 3 lb  hammer on a flat face  drill punch . have also same size wire wire tube brush that hole related area , clean out the  rusty crud , like never seize on new roll pin , related is that entire  area , for function and issues , like PTO lever rod starting point , next to battery lower tray area , like a gold mine , for improvement , easy too !  snoop around , pete

 

[peter lena 8,627]

@JCM  how could I forget ? ,on that roll pin , get a penetrating oil on / in that  roll seam , before use , that will enhance the spring / slide action on the pin , also establishing a lubricant / instead of rust in its function .  have a good day . stay oily , pete 

[Mike'sHorseBarn 2,998]

2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Also - invest in a good set of roll pin punches, like the ones pictured. Cheap offshore ones will lead to disappointment in results and money wasted.

 

"Cheap things are not good, Good things are not cheap" Pick one.......

 

I bought that exact set of roll pin punches and paid good money for them, but it was worth every penny. The difference is night and day over flea market roll pin punches.

[Keaton 435]

my dad has 2 massive tool boxes full of stuff and 2 smaller ones that my grandpa has so I am Shure we have a 1/4 snap-on or blue point punch 

[Damien Walker 246]

I agree with everything said here. You need a quality punch of exactly the right size and it is essential to brace the shaft to take the pounding. In my experience, the pins come out quite easily if properly braced and struck square on. Taking the column (and dash!) off the tractor is sometimes the only way. Good luck!

[Cody 276]

I just went through this with a 653 I'm working on,  soaked it for weeks with wd40 and pb blaster. No luck, couldn't get it to budge. I got reading on here about people having great success with crc's knocker loose so I got a can.  I've never been more impressed with a penetranting oil! During this whole process I also bought a set of snap ons roll pin punches that go in the air hammer. What a difference! No more hitting your hands and that roll pin didn't stand a chance, it came right out.  I would highly recommend those air hammer punches to anyone!

[P3x 56]

I have to remove my steering pin as well to tighten up my steering.

After soaking, I plan to use a Rivet Punch in a "Real" rivet gun with a controllable trigger. I'm hoping a few thumps from my 6X will persuade it out.

[peter lena 8,627]

@Keaton  unless you brace that steering column to a wall post , your punch impacts are bouncing , uselessly , having done wheels myself , unless you are  solid impact  stopping  with a 3 lb hammer to punch ,  its useless . look at @JCM set up , thats what you want . another thing I do is to use a thin pencil type steel brush in the related holes , to clean out the grunge , like never sieze , on pin replacement , also soaking lubricant in that roll pin to reinstall , it will free up the grunge / rust  and install easier , eliminate,  the impact bounce , get results , pete

[rmaynard 15,459]

So, it looks to me like you have a steering wheel that the hub is encased in plastic. Also, according to the parts list for the 32R, the roll pin is 3/16". You will never get it out with a 1/4" punch.

 

Your biggest problem with bracing is that you may break the plastic if you don't make a brace that conforms to the shape of the hub.

 

The image is not in the correct perspective, but it shows a 2x4 cut with a hole saw the same diameter as your center hub. Drive the pin in the direction of the brace. The pin will go into the 2x4.

 

 

 

[wallfish 17,000]

Is the steering wheel damaged or something? That would be the main reason for removing one from the shaft. If it's damaged already, just cut it off.

If you just need to remove it for restoration or something, knock the pin out of the steering gear at the bottom of the shaft. That tractor uses a roll pin for that gear according to the IPL. Then the steering wheel and the whole shaft could come out.

Any tractor that has the gear welded on, that weld can be ground off and the gear will slide off the end of the shaft.

Or, simply cut the shaft, it can be welded or repaired with a 3/4 shaft coupler. I cut them below the tower.

 

 

[c-series don 8,707]

Okay, rather than me starting a new thread and we are already on the subject, how do I get the steering wheel off of the shaft after I got the roll pin out? This is on a C-175 that I am restoring. I have already cut the shaft because I have a new one, the gear on the old one was beat. Also needed to get the shaft out of the dashboard so I can properly restore it and paint the cast aluminum piece. I realize that I can put a coupler in the shaft, but since I have a brand new one I’d like to use it without cutting it. 

[wallfish 17,000]

Press it out. Any decent auto shop would have a shop press.  Or it's an excuse to buy another tool. A home shop typically doesn't need the nice expensive units.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81515/10002/-1?msclkid=6e43818cdef21f3df290e7be3f14be64&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=WP_US_Bing_Shopping_555-Products%20-%20Standard&utm_term=4581664972224732&utm_content=555%20Products

 

Or get a shaft with the gear on it too once it's out

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134897193266?itmmeta=01HWVCCJDCPW15SVWF2H6B3VMS&hash=item1f687fd132:g:pwQAAOSw6H9lqbDd&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8PNGKQDc7P%2BxRc30uFJoSbvfE5chorRaov4J5ygHLuWstrp4aaRDrLVSgq58%2Fpm%2FGdcyDsxhGjni%2FM7kWACeRNQ8%2FIPRXhq2%2FKIX%2BTyPmt7avp6XT7P%2B%2B9zDKPeapbOPL%2FkFfCc%2FRZ9Ks923GEY9bdRF9vstiGzdGNp9SeIz1RSaqG%2Bm2T0ZpQONIUJgKk6ruHg5KGmrbz3MbtisncpoJMO2vQew9EdGL92yZHXQgJuCJu47C%2B81qLzpxywR6kKy22jJFP2A77u8y2LLSsPIhNgAuZ1iRtkAb1str1N2NVhSPEhKx9UBUByvrmKRsdML6A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-amsuzmYw

 

You could also drill it out now that it's off

Edited May 2 by wallfish

[c-series don 8,707]

I have access to a press, but it can’t be pressed out because you can’t get to the center of the steering wheel. In other words there’s no removable center cap. If there were this would be a simple thing to press out. I’m worried about damaging the wheel if I have to clamp it in something to drill it. I have a brand new shaft with the gear on it. 

[Keaton 435]

I was done messing with ti I hooked it to a 2x4 and pallet racking anchored into the concrete and beat on it for a while and I just ended up leaving it in there

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

i soaked pin with penetrant 1-2 times daily for more than a week.... then just kept hitting punch repeatedly -- one technique that helped was hitting punch from both sides of pin until the rust weld let go.... then drove it through

[clueless 2,992]

Like I said if you've beat on it with a standard punch even a quality roll pin punch aint going to do you much good.

 

[wallfish 17,000]

21 hours ago, c-series don said:

I have access to a press, but it can’t be pressed out because you can’t get to the center of the steering wheel. In other words there’s no removable center cap. If there were this would be a simple thing to press out. I’m worried about damaging the wheel if I have to clamp it in something to drill it. I have a brand new shaft with the gear on it. 

Put a blanket down on the floor and stand on the wheel while drilling ? Maybe some drill bit stop collars too. A set of cheapies is less than $5