Always Something

[Fishroe 261]

Thought I was going to plow the garden for my first time using a brinly plow on the 414-8

put the rockshaft kit on, took the sleeve hitch off the 314 hydro  I wanted to plow with a manual trans for the first time plowing. The hole in the stabilizer plate doesn’t even line up with the hole on the plow. What the h$ll. This is the only sleeve hitch I’ve ever seen

it came on the 314 hydro when I bought it a couple years ago  I don’t get it. Any help is appreciated.  Very frustrated right now 😠😠

 

[Achto 27,605]

35 minutes ago, Fishroe said:

 I don’t get it. Any help is appreciated.

 

Not sure what that piece in the middle is. This should be all the pieces that there is to the hitch.

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-brinly-clevis-hitch-sleeve-hitch/

 

The hitch on the plow should be pinned through the sleeve in the hitch.

[daveoman1966 3,752]

Your CLEVIS hitch appears to hvae been modified...it should look like this for the moldboard plow:  

[ranger 1,750]

Is the piece with the box section an adapter to allow the older type implements, which use a ‘tongue’ for connection, to fit to the later clevis hitch?

Edited April 16 by ranger

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

I think you are right.  Older models used a slot hitch and it seems that is the modification to yours to use slot hitch implements.  You could change it back by using a grinder to cut off where they welded so it looks like the regular sleeve hitch.

[Pullstart 62,912]

39 minutes ago, ranger said:

Is the piece with the box section an adapter to allow the older type implements, which use a ‘tongue’ for connection, to fit to the later clevis hitch?

 

29 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

I think you are right.  Older models used a slot hitch and it seems that is the modification to yours to use slot hitch implements.  You could change it back by using a grinder to cut off where they welded so it looks like the regular sleeve hitch.

The tube on the “adapter” looks too tall for a sleeve hitch attachment to work.  It would flop up and down and likely damage the pin.  My guess, is it was a custom extension to lift the plow out of the ground further with a rock shaft.  @Blasterdad’s C-81 this weekend came to plow day with a rock shaft and he figured out real quick that the lift height is severely hindered by the extra leverage the rock shaft allows for.  Making the lever (plow frame) longer would lift it further off the ground.

[Fishroe 261]

Here’s a better pic before I took it off the 314

so should I take the piece with the 2 holes in it off and use the plow without it 

 

 

[Achto 27,605]

17 minutes ago, Fishroe said:

should I take the piece with the 2 holes in it off and use the plow without it 

 

 

Correct. The plow will attach where the pin is now.

[Skwerl58 704]

These hiches work well on our tractors. The one change I  made was drilling more adjustment holes in the height adjustment bar at the lift chain. 2-3 more holes make a difference in equipment height and equipment carrying height. Enjoy your tractor!

[Fishroe 261]

When I got the 314 2 implements came with it 

a disc harrow and a rake and they both have a thick piece of flat bar that would slide in that adapter thing. The guy also gave me a non running 856 and that has the slot hitch so that explains all of that. The 856 I have is missing both belt covers. A year or so after I got the 856 I bought a another mower not a wheel horse from another guy and he had this belt cover laying around and I thought it might fit the 856 but it doesn’t  if anybody can use it, I’d be more than happy to send it to them

 

 

 

Edited April 16 by Fishroe

[Lee1977 6,667]

You don't need that piece anyway it was just there to take up space. I have never used mine, hook up with out it ..

[wallfish 17,011]

5 hours ago, Fishroe said:

When I got the 314 2 implements came with it 

a disc harrow and a rake and they both have a thick piece of flat bar that would slide in that adapter thing. The guy also gave me a non running 856 and that has the slot hitch so that explains all of that. The 856 I have is missing both belt covers. A year or so after I got the 856 I bought a another mower not a wheel horse from another guy and he had this belt cover laying around and I thought it might fit the 856 but it doesn’t  if anybody can use it, I’d be more than happy to send it to them

 

Save that adapter thing for using with the flat bar attachments!

I could use that engine belt guard if no one else claimed it

[Fishroe 261]

OK guys I got the garden plowed today. Thanks to everyone’s help.  It plowed good, but I do have one question. Following the Brinley plow instructions that a moderator had posted in another forum. It says to keep the right side tires in the furrow, which I did. But it was leaving a 10 or 12 inch wide strip that wasn’t getting plowed. Am I doing something wrong?
wallfish send me your name and address and I will send it to you. I don’t want anything for it.

Edited April 16 by Fishroe

[SylvanLakeWH 25,600]

@Achto

@WHX??

@Pullstart

Thoughts...?

[Achto 27,605]

1 hour ago, Fishroe said:

Am I doing something wrong?

 

When you have your right tires in the furrow, the inside of them should be tight against the left edge of the furrow. The right hand edge of your plow should stay in line with the inside of the right rear tire. If the plow wants to drift to the left (away from the furrow) then you have a set up issue. The cure for this is explained in Brinly's complete instructions. A "band aid" for this is to use the two bolts on the sleeve hitch to keep the plow from swinging to the left. Tighten the bolts against the plow to stop side to side movement.

 

One other thing that can cause your plow to drift out of the furrow is a bent back bone.

 

It takes some practice to get them tuned in properly.

https://brinly.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/efymirhk2pechs8bfhjk.pdf 

 

Any way that you can post pics of the plow hooked to the tractor. Show the hitch and step back a ways so we can see how it lines up with the rear tires.

Edited April 16 by Achto

[WHX?? 48,828]

5 hours ago, wallfish said:

 

Save that adapter thing for using with the flat bar attachments!

Yeah or WH plows for slot style hitches. Most of my tractors with Brinly hitches don't have draw bars so that adapter would come in handy for tubs too. 

[Handy Don 12,237]

13 hours ago, Fishroe said:

 

As others have pointed out, you have a “sleeve to slot” adaptor. This is the first one I’ve seen. 

I happen to have the reverse--a “slot to sleeve” adaptor which WH made and sold.

The sleeve hitch is often referred to as a Brinly hitch.

[WHX?? 48,828]

4 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

happen to have the reverse--a “slot to sleeve” adaptor which WH made and sold.

Oh yeah we all have those too. Made and sold by @Achto... 

[Handy Don 12,237]

9 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Oh yeah we all have those too. Made and sold by @Achto... 

@Achto, Where did you get the ⅝” bar stock to make them? Or did you just go with ½” and let it flop around?

[Achto 27,605]

8 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Or did you just go with ½” and let it flop around?

 

Used 1/2". Had one bend once. Shorting it up solved the issue.

[Fishroe 261]

13 hours ago, Achto said:

 

When you have your right tires in the furrow, the inside of them should be tight against the left edge of the furrow. The right hand edge of your plow should stay in line with the inside of the right rear tire. If the plow wants to drift to the left (away from the furrow) then you have a set up issue. The cure for this is explained in Brinly's complete instructions. A "band aid" for this is to use the two bolts on the sleeve hitch to keep the plow from swinging to the left. Tighten the bolts against the plow to stop side to side movement.

 

One other thing that can cause your plow to drift out of the furrow is a bent back bone.

 

It takes some practice to get them tuned in properly.

https://brinly.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/efymirhk2pechs8bfhjk.pdf 

 

Any way that you can post pics of the plow hooked to the tractor. Show the hitch and step back a ways so we can see how it lines up with the rear tires.

I will post some pics tomorrow 

dont have time today  been busy this morning and go to work at 11:00 today. I work part time at a golf course (free golf)  right now I have both bolts backed out but it could be bent too. I bought it used so I’ve never seen what a new one looks like. Thanks 

[Fishroe 261]

Would it work better if I had  narrower  front tires 

I have these I could take off the 856 vs. the stock ones on the 414 

 

[Achto 27,605]

9 minutes ago, Fishroe said:

Would it work better if I had  narrower  front tires 

 

Tires should be fine as long as they do not sit in further that the rears. Look down the rear of the tractor, the inside edges of the tires should line up with in reason.

[WHX?? 48,828]

4 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Used 1/2". Had one bend once. Shorting it up solved the issue.

Still one should reverse out of the furrow before lifting as to not lift a load of dirt. 

Lots of stress on that undersized lift cable no matter how good Lowell makes them. 

Some say lifting while on on the fly helps too.