Gear Drive Idler frustration

[pfrederi 17,856]

One thing most of like about WHs was that  in many instances parts were interchangeable over a few years.. That being the case when I looked at the broken end of the idler arm on a 1975 C-160-8 I figured no problem be easy to get one.  Wrong...

 

Idler Arm Part numbers by year vary and design changes...

 

Year       Part

1973    9757

1974    9757

1975    104407

1976    105390

1977    105897

1978    106525

 

Designs changed  in 1973/74 the end piece (belt retainer) was mounted at 45 degree angled to front...  1975/76/77  45 degree angled to rear   but different part # each year...

 

Guess I will note the angle on mine grind off the thin metal belt retainer weld on a new one bent on the end so it clears the idler pulley by about 1/2"

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,205]

I can't say if it was factory made or not but I've had at least one go through our shop that was specifically held in place by the bolt that holds the pulley on. Gave it infinite variability.

[Ed Kennell 38,598]

I've had some  with welded belt retainers  some positioned by the pulley bolt.

[wallfish 17,078]

7 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Guess I will note the angle on mine grind off the thin metal belt retainer weld on a new one bent on the end so it clears the idler pulley by about 1/2"

Maybe don't weld it on and leave it adjustable like the old one's were. This is for the belt retainer/belt brake thingy correct?

Edited April 15 by wallfish

[Ed Kennell 38,598]

 

[pfrederi 17,856]

Ok now I am confused.  You show one retainer  (blue) that seems to pinch the belt against  a plate...that is not on a C-160...

what does the other retainer do (yellow )  That looks more like remains of what is on my c160/.??

Edited April 15 by pfrederi

[Blasterdad 2,717]

14 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

what does the other retainer do (yellow ) 

That pushes in the clutch interlock switch, (which isn't there in the pic/video) switch is supposed to be in the hole just in front of it... (when in the returned position)

Edited April 15 by Blasterdad

[ebinmaine 68,205]

16 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

That pushes in the clutch interlock switch, (which isn't there in the pic/video) switch is supposed to be in the hole just in front of it... (when in the returned position)

 

 

The yellow part would involve clutch switch on later models. 

In the mid 70s the clutch switch was at the clutch pedal. Left side of frame. 

 

 

[Blasterdad 2,717]

                                                                    

[Ed Kennell 38,598]

4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

.that is not on a C-160

Correct Paul, this video is of a 310-8 to show the effectiveness of this belt brake system .       I have seen this belt brake system on some older C series tractors where the stationary pad is on the belt guard and the moving pad is on the pulley.

4 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

That pushes in the clutch interlock switch

The plate Paul circled in yellow actually contacts a clutch dampening piston when the clutch is engaged and the belt is tightened.    The clutch starting safety switch is on the left clutch pedal as it is on the older tractors.

 

Here is a picture showing how the "yellow" circled pad due to a too long worn belt has allowed it to slip under the clutch dampening piston.  This actually locked the clutch pedal up preventing it from being depressed .   Unable to depress the clutch and close the clutch safety switch, the PO could not start the tractor.    This is when He sold it for cheap as a non running roller.

 

BTY, the clutch dampener,  when it is adjusted properly with the correct length belt, does work to prevent jerky starts.   And as shown in the video, even with the belt guard removed and no wire belt fingers around the engine drive pulley, the belt brake positively stops the belt making for easy no grind gear shifting.

The CCW rotation of the engine pulley actually pushes the belt forward disengaging it from the engine pulley.

 

 

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Edited April 16 by Ed Kennell