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mike avad

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mike avad

I have a wheel horse tiller and its linking gear oil in 2 spots I hate to have to take the gear case apart. how hard is it to replace the gasket? and am new to this wheel horse. There not tag on this so am not sure the year of this. is there a site that will show me step by step to repair this?

Edited by mike avad
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kpinnc

I'd be willing to bet you $10 that one or more of the seals is leaking, and it only appears to be the gasket. 

 

But, replacing the gasket is easy. Removing the tines, and getting the case apart without breaking it can be the tough part. 

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c-series don

Having done this before I can tell you that it’s a pretty simple process. If you’re going to replace the gasket and you have it apart you might as well replace the seals on the tine shaft. The gasket and seal kit is available through Wheel Horse Parts and More. The hardest part may be getting the tines off of the shafts. I fought with mine and ended up heating them up with a torch where they slid onto the shafts then IMMEDIATELY putting it to work in hard ground. That was the only way I could get them to break free of the shafts. If you don’t have a torch I’d try removing the bolts that hold the tines on and then using it for a while to break them free.There’s really not that lot going on in the gear box, so taking it apart and laying out the pieces step by step is easy. If you can post pictures of your tiller we can help you figure out what kit you need and probably get you the schematic for it. 

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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, mike avad said:

is there a site that will show me step by step to repair this?

You are at the BEST site/ forum to get all the help you need…

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Brockport Bill
10 hours ago, mike avad said:

I have a wheel horse tiller and its linking gear oil in 2 spots I hate to have to take the gear case apart. how hard is it to replace the gasket? and am new to this wheel horse. There not tag on this so am not sure the year of this. is there a site that will show me step by step to repair this?

i have seen a You Tube of guy taking apart the tiller and doing maintenance on gear box -- gasket etc -- try You Tube search

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mike avad

Thank you all for your reply's.

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gwest_ca

Noticed a service note on this parts illustration that I have never seen before.

Item #28 retaining ring 

These are made by a stamping process that leaves the edges of one side of the ring rounded and the other side sharp. The sharp edge holds better than the rounded edge.

Never seen that instruction before but was always aware of it.

 

Started out looking to see if all tillers used double seals on the tine shafts. The outer goes in backwards to keep dirt out and the inner goes in normally to keep the oil in. Good idea to add a bit of grease between the seals so the outer has some lubrication.

Tiller 07-36TL02 tine seals.jpg

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Scott 414-8

Hello, I recently bought a used tiller....it was leaking profusely, i figured it was time for new seals. Once opened up, I was quite....how should I say....madder than a wet hornet ! A very sludgy, nasty mess! Anyways, after cleaning all parts, i found the main tine shaft in pretty bad shape. Where the bearings ride....measures 1.236, should be 1.248ish. I can't find a new shaft anywhere. And, even if I could find one, I ain't paying 650 for a new one ! So, I figured I am going to make a new one. My question is....I will make it out of 4140 or maybe S-7, should I get it heat treated to be hardened or, leave it soft ?

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ebinmaine
10 hours ago, Scott 414-8 said:

Hello, I recently bought a used tiller....it was leaking profusely, i figured it was time for new seals. Once opened up, I was quite....how should I say....madder than a wet hornet ! A very sludgy, nasty mess! Anyways, after cleaning all parts, i found the main tine shaft in pretty bad shape. Where the bearings ride....measures 1.236, should be 1.248ish. I can't find a new shaft anywhere. And, even if I could find one, I ain't paying 650 for a new one ! So, I figured I am going to make a new one. My question is....I will make it out of 4140 or maybe S-7, should I get it heat treated to be hardened or, leave it soft ?

 

 

@Handy Don or @Achto

Thoughts?

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Achto
12 hours ago, Scott 414-8 said:

So, I figured I am going to make a new one. My question is....I will make it out of 4140 or maybe S-7, should I get it heat treated to be hardened or, leave it soft ?

 

It looks like there are needle bearings that ride right on the shaft so it should be surface hardened & polished in that area at least. 

 

If it uses a regular bearing & race set up, then you can use common cold rolled stock.

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Moparfanforever

Hope this helps!!

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953 nut
13 hours ago, Scott 414-8 said:

Hello, I recently bought a used tiller....it was leaking profusely, i figured it was time for new seals. Once opened up, I was quite....how should I say....madder than a wet hornet ! A very sludgy, nasty mess! Anyways, after cleaning all parts, i found the main tine shaft in pretty bad shape. Where the bearings ride....measures 1.236, should be 1.248ish. I can't find a new shaft anywhere. And, even if I could find one, I ain't paying 650 for a new one ! So, I figured I am going to make a new one. My question is....I will make it out of 4140 or maybe S-7, should I get it heat treated to be hardened or, leave it soft ?

:WRS:

Have you considered a shaft repair sleeve?       https://www.google.com/search?q=shaft+repair+sleeve&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=shaft+repait+sleve&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCQgBEAAYDRiABDIGCAAQRRg5MgkIARAAGA0YgAQyCQgCEAAYDRiABDIJCAMQABgNGIAEMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCggGEAAYBRgNGB4yCggHEAAYBRgNGB4yCggIEAAYBRgNGB4yCggJEAAYBRgNGB7SAQkyNTAwNmowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

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kpinnc
Posted (edited)

I had a machine shop make a new cross shaft for mine many years ago. I don't recall the steel used, but it was not mild steel. 

 

The shaft is simple as I recall. Just a keyway in the middle and two drilled holes for the tines. My original one was slightly bent.

Edited by kpinnc
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pfrederi

Too bad we are on opposite sides of Pennsylvania.  I have a tiller no tines and an ear is broken off the case but I am pretty sure the innards aren't  too bad.  I never used it and has been storied in side for several years .  yours free

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Handy Don
Posted (edited)
On 3/24/2025 at 6:43 PM, Scott 414-8 said:

Where the bearings ride....measures 1.236, should be 1.248ish. I can't find a new shaft anywhere. And, even if I could find one, I ain't paying 650 for a new one ! So, I figured I am going to make a new one. My question is....I will make it out of 4140 or maybe S-7, should I get it heat treated to be hardened or, leave it soft ?

@ri702bill is a great source for an answer to questions about machining & materials,

but @Achto's answer makes sense: 

It looks like there are needle bearings that ride right on the shaft so it should be surface hardened & polished in that area at least. 

If it uses a regular bearing & race set up, then you can use common cold rolled stock.

Edited by Handy Don
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ri702bill
Posted (edited)

Thanks Don... Mild steel (cold rolled) is rather soft as steels go and runs .003 to .005 undersize. The 4140 is a great choice, one of my favorites. It runs true to size, has a better surface finish and comes already "toughened" with a low heat treat thru, not just the surface. It machines and taps very well, and is only a bit more expensive than cold rolled. The Speedi-Sleeve is a tad pricey, but restores that worn portion to like new. Good choice. On the other hand S-7 Bearcat is brutal to machine and is expensive.

Your choice...

Edited by ri702bill
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