23 Reo 229 #1 Posted April 2 I have an ugly WH. Has anyone stripped the paint off their tractor and clear coated? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,610 #2 Posted April 2 @23 Reo never stripped one down , but have patina saved what was there , penetrating oil lubrication will feed what's there , and can be very easily buffed out with and a electric palm buffer . clear coating is for , new fresh paint . just my own opinion , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,873 #3 Posted April 2 I have seen a couple people on YouTube use a DA sander and then clear over that area. I am not to sure about stripper, I used it this winter on a project and it was a lot of work. But the machine had a lot of layers of paint. I just wish I would have started with 80 grit to take it down to metal. I wonder what a sandblasted hood with clear would look like? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #4 Posted April 2 @23 Reo What kind of ugly are we talking here? Any pictures? You want it to be bare metal? There was a time when our friend @AMC RULES Craig had a little hot rod that was bare metal but I don't know if there was any clear or wax or whatever he used. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,005 #5 Posted April 2 I don't think clear coat would stop it from rusting again... Not for long anyway. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,661 #6 Posted April 2 i have cleaned rust and paint from mower decks and plows as well as some seat pans and hoods with angle grinder pads as well as had done by professional sand blaster. Angle grinder pads or hand/machine sanding for tins like a hood or seat pan etc may not produce a high quality appearance -- for tins it appears sand blasting is best for the best final appearance. Mostly, I have rehabbed mowers and plows that do not need a perfect "pretty appearance" but still want a fair quality look. I plan to try out sourcing a test project using the laser stripping technology to clean rust and paint -- maybe then I will try some clear coat and other techniques to see the comparison?? Some of the restoration projects we see here on R Sq are spectacular - - far beyond my capabilities - - and the fact some members have professional body work career skills makes me only wish i had that knowledge and ability 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #7 Posted April 2 (edited) Depends on what you want the finish to be. Full restoration or preserve the patina. I had a horrible finish on a 704 that I used some Loews Rust stripper on first and then finished with Penetrol. Was amazed how much of original paint it salvaged and gave it the patina I was looking for. Great rust inhibitor too. Before - After - Edited April 2 by Sailman 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #8 Posted April 2 10 minutes ago, Sailman said: Rust stripper Any chance you can post a pic of that label? 11 minutes ago, Sailman said: After That's a DRAMATIC improvement. I have a C160 (or 5) that could benefit from such a change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #9 Posted April 2 24 minutes ago, Sailman said: Depends on what you want the finish to be. Full restoration or preserve the patina. I had a horrible finish on a 704 that I used some Loews Rust stripper on first and then finished with Penetrol. Was amazed how much of original paint it salvaged and gave it the patina I was looking for. Great rust inhibitor too. Before - After - I too would like more information on that rust stripper, 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,610 #10 Posted April 2 @Sailman thats what i,m talking about ! personally think that the average age of a horse , today would call for a patina save , that oil staining is what you want to do , when ever I pick up wheel horse anything , the first thing I do is , give it a lubrication soak / sit . brought back a lot of horse paint , to me its period correct , @Brockport Bill , your recovery paint work is just right , period correct . looks better than just about anything , I run across , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #11 Posted April 3 5 minutes ago, peter lena said: @Sailman thats what i,m talking about ! personally think that the average age of a horse , today would call for a patina save , that oil staining is what you want to do , when ever I pick up wheel horse anything , the first thing I do is , give it a lubrication soak / sit . brought back a lot of horse paint , to me its period correct , @Brockport Bill , your recovery paint work is just right , period correct . looks better than just about anything , I run across , pete How often does one have to apply the oil soak? Also can someone give a detailed process? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,005 #12 Posted April 3 47 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I have a C160 (or 5) OH PPPFFFFFTTTT!!!!!!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #13 Posted April 3 1 minute ago, kpinnc said: OH PPPFFFFFTTTT!!!!!!!! I might even be working on another..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,005 #14 Posted April 3 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I might even be working on another Why am I not surprised... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,068 #15 Posted April 3 33 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: How often does one have to apply the oil soak? Also can someone give a detailed process? Don't soak with oil. You will have a dust and dirt magnet. Just brush the Penetrol on. Available at Lowe's and HD. Many YT videos. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #16 Posted April 3 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Any chance you can post a pic of that label? It is the Klean Strip Concrete and Metal prep from Lowes - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klean-Strip-Concrete-and-Metal-Prep-1-GAL/1001456348 The trick is to use it on the tins and let sit for just a couple hours, then scrub it clean with water and brush, then very light wet sand. Dry it good and add the Penetrol. Amazing results. If you leave the Klean Strip over night as they recommend it will leave a blackish film which then needs to be painted. Just a couple hours of Klean Strip removes most of the rust. I was amazed there was actually finish under that rust! Here is what I started with.... . 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,610 #17 Posted April 3 @fourwheelhorseman don't have any dirt / dust on my oil treated horses / related equipment , been doing this for years , after initial , light penetrating oil soak down / let sit , to absorb it in , couple of days , wipe it down , and give it some time , before second coating . this not a one and done , remember you are trying to recover NEGLECT . personally regularly see a deeper base paint coming thru , do you see any dirt or dust on / in that paint ? once paint breaks thru , use a 6" electric palm buffer / cleaner wax , thats the result . also did my plow blades , snow slide is amazing , no rust / dirt / dust . easy to do , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites