AHS 1,443 #1 Posted March 23 On my 82 C175 when i step on the brake it does shift it in neutral. On my 89 520H, when i step on the brake it DOES NOT shift it into neutral! Kinda scary! Im thinking, Eaton 1100, same transmission on both. Obviously, you step on the brake and it has a rod that connects to the brake pad. The brake pedal to the transmission; Where is the transmission aspect of things? Is there a rod or a spring that could be unhooked? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #2 Posted March 23 Under the seat you should see the mechanisms involved. Find a manual for your tractor and look over the linkages for the pedal. Worn parts and or sloppy connections of the linkages will not always allow for the precise return to a neutral position because it's such a fine line on the trans arm linkage from neutral to go. Is it not even slowing it down or moving towards neutral at all? That would indicate a linkage piece might have broken or came off or something of that nature. If it's moving towards neutral but not stopping at that precise point between forward and reverse, it's more than likely worn parts. There is some adjustment by the cam under the seat but sometimes they can't be adjusted enough to make up for worn parts. Just my limited hydro experience. I can't leave the seat with the tractor running because the vibrations will make it creep into motion and it could go off driverless. PITA when working on it sometimes and I need to fix that. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,305 #3 Posted March 23 58 minutes ago, wallfish said: linkage piece might have broken or came off I have all Eaton 1100s in 3,4,and 500 series tractors. They all go to neutral when the brake is pushed. 1 hour ago, wallfish said: vibrations will make it creep into motion Does this happen with the parking brake set John? Or do you old dudes forget to set the brake? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #4 Posted March 23 17 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Does this happen with the parking brake set John? Or do you old dudes forget to set the brake? Ha, "Old dudes" The parking brake set can hold it for a bit but eventually the trans power can over come it sometimes. When the friction is increased to stop that, it then becomes too difficult to move the handle. So far it's always play and adjust, play and adjust without really achieving sustained final results. Kind of like trying to adjust a carb when there are air leaks from somewhere else. The cam and groove thingy thing seem to be worn enough that prevent true and proper function the way it's supposed to work but since it's not really that big of a deal to me, I haven't spent enough time on it either. It's always "I'll get around to it" later so it's my own fault too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,305 #5 Posted March 23 7 minutes ago, wallfish said: around to it" Hey I have a couple of those. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #6 Posted March 23 8 hours ago, wallfish said: Under the seat you should see the mechanisms involved. Find a manual for your tractor and look over the linkages for the pedal. Worn parts and or sloppy connections of the linkages will not always allow for the precise return to a neutral position because it's such a fine line on the trans arm linkage from neutral to go. Is it not even slowing it down or moving towards neutral at all? That would indicate a linkage piece might have broken or came off or something of that nature. If it's moving towards neutral but not stopping at that precise point between forward and reverse, it's more than likely worn parts. There is some adjustment by the cam under the seat but sometimes they can't be adjusted enough to make up for worn parts. Just my limited hydro experience. I can't leave the seat with the tractor running because the vibrations will make it creep into motion and it could go off driverless. PITA when working on it sometimes and I need to fix that. It does not go to neutral at all. I feel the brake, but no motion toward neutral. That was my thinking, it was a broken linkage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,159 #7 Posted March 24 I did the cam adjustment on mine today. Very simple procedure. Nothing to remove, just a couple wrenches needed. Takes several times to get it right. Just keep pushing the pedal and gove it a minute yo make sure the adjustments are good. It's in the manual. Good luck! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #8 Posted March 24 9 hours ago, kpinnc said: I did the cam adjustment on mine today. Very simple procedure. Nothing to remove, just a couple wrenches needed. Takes several times to get it right. Just keep pushing the pedal and gove it a minute yo make sure the adjustments are good. It's in the manual. Good luck! Ok, I will check that out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,268 #9 Posted March 24 This post might help. It might be as simple as a lost/broken/rusted off cotter pin. The 518 had an Eaton 700, but the brake-setting-to-neutral linkage hardware is identical. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #10 Posted March 25 17 hours ago, Handy Don said: This post might help. It might be as simple as a lost/broken/rusted off cotter pin. The 518 had an Eaton 700, but the brake-setting-to-neutral linkage hardware is identical. Oh ya!!! Diagrams!! Exactly what I wanted! Thank you so much!! I guarantee its a cotter pin!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,089 #11 Posted March 25 I found a couple of pictures that might help. This is the cam plate that forces the motion control to neutral. The serrations at the top are for the parking brake latch. The hole in the bottom is where the brake rod connects although it is not installed in this picture. Here you can see the motion control block with the return to neutral roller engaged into the cam plate near the bottom left. This tractor has been converted to foot control so you can ignore the extra parts on the right side. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,677 #12 Posted March 25 (edited) My 1989 520-H when I got it the cam and cam plate on top of the transmission was worn and sticking in reverse. Almost imposible to get out of reverse luckly the brake still work at get it back to neutral if you hit it hard enough. I had to replace both the cam and cam plate to fix it. Edited March 25 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #13 Posted March 27 Ok, i found what the problem was—- just how to get in there!! The hole where the brake rod is connected. .. With a cotter pin? With a hair pin clip? Also the brake spring/bolt? Is that even close to original? Wow!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,089 #14 Posted March 27 Cotter pin or a hairpin clip through the brake rod to hold it in place will do fine. There is a little hole in it for that purpose. This little exploded parts manual should help as well. Wheel horse 520H parts and service manual.pdf Brake spring is correct and here are two of my tractors showing it. Here is a little guide on setting it up. Wheel horse 520H service manual.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #15 Posted March 27 Ok! Got it fixed! Broken off cotter pin in the brake arm.. so I took the brake arm off and pounded the cotter pin out and replaced it with a hair pin! Lubed all the hydro shifts linkage and it works ultra smooth! I do have one question though… about my brake pivot arm… the lower arm is bent and the brake lining is all cock eyed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,089 #16 Posted March 27 Pins should be straight and have cotter pins to hold the brake band on. Pull off the band then straighten the pins best you can (you may need a deep socket with an extension or use an adjustable wrench. You can straighten the brake band by hand if required, it is very thin steel. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #17 Posted March 28 @cleat Ok! What do you do? Paint the tractor and do a full off restoration? In my mind; a lot of time money, time (8 days a week!) and analyzing!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,730 #18 Posted March 28 When you look at the tractors in the service manuals, they are not as clean and nice as @cleat’s !!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,089 #19 Posted March 28 1 hour ago, AHS said: @cleat Ok! What do you do? Paint the tractor and do a full off restoration? In my mind; a lot of time money, time (8 days a week!) and analyzing!! When I was at work as a millwright in a fairly large chemical factory they let me work on tractor parts in my spare time and they had a bead blast machine, spray booth, and had welders working there that loved to weld up my projects so long as I got everything ready for them. But now I am retired so I have lots of time and bought a small bead blaster and my neighbor is a welder, and also paints my hoods, fenders. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #20 Posted March 28 @cleat Wow! Ok. My hats off to you! I have had a paint and restore Charger 12, i got it done…. But man! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #21 Posted March 29 (edited) Well, I got this done. No brakes and not shifting to neutral on a 20hp…done and done!! (All fixed now!) That lower one was tweaked pretty hard! Edited March 29 by AHS Typo 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites