36" Deck Info

[giant_g2 23]

I was looking through the manual section, but I couldn't find one for my model - 506219. I was trying to find the belt sizes and blade info. I was also interested in how to rebuild/lube the spindles. They don't need it yet, but I was planning the clean and lube most of the other pulleys. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

506219 does not look like a model number.

36" side or rear discharge deck?

Is the center hole in the blade round or a double-D shape?

What tractor model is this for?

[giant_g2 23]

This is a rear discharge. The spindles are round with 2 flats. It came with a 1975 B80 the metal tag on it says model 5 0612 9

Edited March 22 by giant_g2

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

The 5-0621 should have registered but didn't. The 9 makes it a 1974 model.

Click on the fuzzy pictures for more info.

 

[giant_g2 23]

Thank you! This information is great.

 

Figures that mine would be the non-greasable ones...

[JoeM 7,873]

3 hours ago, giant_g2 said:

Figures that mine would be the non-greasable ones..

I have seen those still running at 30 years old. And the bearings are still available.

[giant_g2 23]

I hope I'm not asking too much, but are the bearing a standard size? Is there a way to find the part number or size without knocking them out of the housing?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

Assuming you have the original spindle assemblies the 103119 bearing assembly is not available from Toro but Stens and other aftermarket suppliers still have it.

Before investing in new bearings make sure you can still get blades. They were not available for a few years but are now. The unique center hole is what makes them different. and only available from Toro.

https://www.partstree.com/search/?type=part&term=8969

The alternative is to replace all the spindle assemblies to a later design that uses blades with a round center hole and readily available blades and individual bearings.

[peter lena 8,609]

@giant_g2  opportunity is what you have , those " non serviceable bearings "  are easily replaced with same size / type , with wide  rubber side shields , fine flat pocket screwdriver , or small flat putty knife, easily , carefully removes the seals , wipe out original  vague lubricant , carb cleaner  flush , repack with Lucas green chassis grease, 555- deg  flash point , will not fail or whine with noise. you might also do over the PTO / MULE drive bearings. you are right there , lay out mule drive , as you  tear  down , spacers are vital for proper best set up . also look at PTO cone outer sealed bearing any doubt  , replace , Napa has them .  done all of my decks / drives / related , solid / quiet / smooth . like said , you are right there , eliminate the problem , pete     

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,297]

One of out vendors K&B sells the DD spindles with bearings.

[giant_g2 23]

Thank you all for the info! 

[giant_g2 23]

Hey all, I think I'm just about done with the mower. I see the blades are just about even with bottom of the side of the deck. Are these blades too low, or do they sit this low by design? I'm used to blades that sit an inch or so above the bottom (newer mowers). 

[giant_g2 23]

I tried it out for a small patch and it worked fine. Thanks for all the help!

[giant_g2 23]

I have one safety related question. It seem slide the rear guard is just a straight extension to the deck and that the blades could easily throw balls/rocks/etc backwards. Has anyone tried using beveled washers to change the angle a bit? Something like these. I can't see it causing any problems, so I might give it a try. Just wanted to see if anyone had any input on this sort of thing.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,422]

3 hours ago, giant_g2 said:

input

 

I've seen pics of a deck that someone had built and installed a different or extended shield. 

 

I don't recall the extra length or angle but I believe it was slanted down maybe 30⁰ or 40⁰ and extended 3 to 5 inches so it was an inch or so higher than the bottom of the original deck. 

 

I like this idea because it would also keep more dirt and grass clippings out of the transmission. 

 

 

[giant_g2 23]

I'm going to give these a try. I think the flat wedge shape will spread any force out a bit. I think they're also a shallower angle than the 30 deg ones I posted earlier. 

[Handy Don 12,212]

43 minutes ago, giant_g2 said:

I'm going to give these a try. I think the flat wedge shape will spread any force out a bit. I think they're also a shallower angle than the 30 deg ones I posted earlier. 

 

I've put these on two RD decks--a 42” and a 36" geared. 4” vinyl cove base. They help A LOT at keeping stuff from blowing or throwing around.

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

I've put these on two RD decks--a 42” and a 36" geared. 4” vinyl cove base. They help A LOT at keeping stuff from blowing or throwing around.

Don - i may have originally borrowed "stole" the rear discharge flange idea from you a few years ago ? Put them on a couple 42" r.d decks -- yup, used Vinyl cove base - works perfect !!

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 hour ago, Brockport Bill said:

i may have originally borrowed "stole" the rear discharge flange idea

Given how many terrific ideas I’ve gotten from other members, it’s a pleasure to be able to contribute! Glad it’s working for you!

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Given how many terrific ideas I’ve gotten from other members, it’s a pleasure to be able to contribute! Glad it’s working for you!

the forum is spectacular INVALUABLE resource -- the lifetime knowledge passed along is amazing

[ebinmaine 67,422]

On 3/29/2024 at 4:38 PM, giant_g2 said:

Hey all, I think I'm just about done with the mower. I see the blades are just about even with bottom of the side of the deck. Are these blades too low, or do they sit this low by design? I'm used to blades that sit an inch or so above the bottom (newer mowers). 

 

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on this? 

[Handy Don 12,212]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on this? 

And @giant_g2 ...

 

I have seen this alignment before on mowers I’ve assumed to have original spindles and correct blades. Their blades did not have significant “lift” shaping which would increase the hp requirement and affect airflow under the deck. I always assumed the idea of this design was to minimize bending the grass (which might not bounce back) before it reaches the blade and hence get a smoother cut.

 

My first Craftsman 21” fling-the-cuttings-out-the-side push mower needed only 2.5 hp and had nearly flush-to-the-bottom-skirt blade alignment.

My current 18” mulching push mower uses a 4.5 hp engine. Its blade is recessed at least an inch above the skirt and the “high lift” blade ends are within 3/16” of the shell.

 

[giant_g2 23]

Thanks! I did mow with this. It worked fine. I had it on the second to highest setting. I would guess the lower setting would require a much smoother/flater yard than mine. 

 

I'm still working on the idea ro change rhe angle on the guard to direct it down more. The washers I posted before won't work. The 2 of the 4 bolts holding it on are at a different distance from the edge, it end up that I would need different angled washers for two of the holes. Using the same 4 ends up with a slight gap between the body and the guard. 

[ebinmaine 67,422]

2 hours ago, giant_g2 said:

still working on the idea ro change rhe angle on the guard to direct it down more

 

Might be easier to leave the guard in place and ad the vinyl piece 🤔 

[giant_g2 23]

Yeah, but my main concern was stuff the vinyl won't stop, like rocks or baseballs in tall grass. The kids are always leaving stuff in the yard.