loudtractor 46 #1 Posted March 20 I picked up a 42" RD deck, no tag, but a 1990 safety sticker. It's in pretty nice shape, but I decided to go through it and make it as close to factory as possible. I had to cut one of the pulleys off, and of course, destroyed the spindle. I found a replacement (used) and noticed, too late, that the replacement is different than the original. This one has an "hourglass" shape where the blade mounts. Anyone have any idea if this can be used? The blade can't be centered on the spindle. It fits over the threads, then rests at the narrow part and moves around. I'm not sure what's going on here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #2 Posted March 20 The 3-jaw puller I see is NOT the right tool to remove the pulleys. You should have use a 'Power Steering Pump Pulley' remover tool that you can rent from most any AutoZone store....(free rental if returned unbroken.) OR--- 2 pry bars as in this pic: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,047 #3 Posted March 20 This should help with spindle identification Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
loudtractor 46 #4 Posted March 20 Thanks for that info. I did get a pulley puller from HF, but it didn't fit. I planned on replacing that spindle, so I went the gonzo route and trashed it. My mistake was trashing the shaft. Then I found out how$$ those parts are! Anyhow, is there any way to use that spindle? I looked through the file, but I'm not seeing one with that narrow waist over the nut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #5 Posted March 21 1 hour ago, loudtractor said: but I'm not seeing one with that narrow waist over the nut. Looks like the nut came loose & the blade spun around on the shaft cutting that groove in it, must have made a heluva racket, you'll need a new shaft for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OoPEZoO 525 #6 Posted March 21 I agree.....looks like the nut loosened and the blade spun, wearing down the shaft. I'd say its trashed unless you are interested in welding and using a lathe to fix it (probably not worth the effort even if you have the tools/skill) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #7 Posted March 21 @loudtractor , @daveoman1966 pictures are mine , on easy removal . you are mixing old and newer spindles , the older type were brutal , for refitting , another vital thing about spindle rebuilding is to , RE GREASE , ALL RELATED BEARINGS , with a hi temp . 550 deg flash point , so they will stand up to drive stress. no bearing whine / noise . those wonder bars make easy work of those pulleys , without damage . also rebuild related , mule drive set up bearings , they also lubrication fail . like LUCAS X TRA HEAVY DUTY GREEN GREASE , for quiet , smooth , bearings . improve as you go , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
loudtractor 46 #8 Posted March 21 Thanks for all the info. I think you're right, the spindle shaft is worn from a loose blade. I guess I got swindled on my spindle! Ordered a new shaft. The deck will be good or better, than new. Now, the mule drive bearings are going on the bench. I followed your advice Pete, regarding the grease. I don't trust the sealed bearings. I like to know they have hi temp quality grease in them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #9 Posted March 21 @loudtractor whenever I purchase a bearing , always look for the WIDE RUBBER SIDE SHIELDS , small pocket screwdriver . or small flat putty knife , makes for easy removal , carefully remove them , wipe out , then a carb cleaner flush , before a repack with the good stuff , carefully reinstall them , good to go . no bearing whine , is what you want , its the COLLECTIVE ROTATIONAL DRAG on the PTO DRIVE , THAT IS SHOWING YOU THE WAY . that also greatly reduces the PTO , CLUTCH DRAG / WEAR, a lot of my improvements , are from just looking at , how something is , SAPOSED TO WORK , also firming up linkage points , washers , etc , lubrication . make sure on the mule drive , that your spacers are correct , I lay it out , on breakdown , to verify rebuild . thanks for the shout , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
loudtractor 46 #10 Posted March 21 All good points, thanks Pete. On my retirement, I have time to do things carefully and methodically. You seem like you have that attitude. I work with friend a couple hours a day. He's 75, and been building\restoring exotic engines for 50 odd years. Now we have fun with whatever we want. V6 garden tractor, turbine power Jacobsen, and on and on. He teaches me patience. You need a lot restoring these tractors! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites