Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014 #1 Posted March 20 So I have a stripped drain plug on a raider 12. I guarantee the fluid was never checked because I had to heat the dipstick to get it out, it was so pitted and rusty! So the drainplug I heated and got an impact on and no go. So I got a big breaker bar on it and that's when it stripped. The trans is full of what looks like peanut butter and it leaks out the axles and brake shaft. Thoughts on my next move? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chaz54 57 #2 Posted March 20 (edited) Possibly drilling a hole thru and using a "spiral screw extractor"? Edited March 20 by Chaz54 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #3 Posted March 20 That transmission should have a side rear drain plug at the left rear. May have an extension. If you can remove that then raise the front of the tractor you'll be able to get most of the nasty fluid out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014 #4 Posted March 20 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: That transmission should have a side rear drain plug at the left rear. May have an extension. If you can remove that then raise the front of the tractor you'll be able to get most of the nasty fluid out. It does, I like that idea! I have a chain hoist I can take the hood and raise the front. I thought about using my homemade fluid extractor too. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #5 Posted March 20 1 minute ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said: It does, I like that idea! I have a chain hoist I can take the hood and raise the front. I thought about using my homemade fluid extractor too. Whatever you can do to get the most gunk out is effective. Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. It'll flush. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014 #6 Posted March 20 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Whatever you can do to get the most gunk out is effective. Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. It'll flush. I was gonna run fuel oil through a few times to try and flush it out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #7 Posted March 20 1 minute ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said: I was gonna run fuel oil through a few times to try and flush it out. Manual transmission right? K1. #2 fuel oil. Diesel. Any of them would work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014 #8 Posted March 20 25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Manual transmission right? K1. #2 fuel oil. Diesel. Any of them would work. Yea 6 speed manual. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,080 #9 Posted March 20 You could tap a torx bit into that drain plug, or weld a nut to it and try backing it out. Sometimes with pipe fittings, you can’t loosen it but you can still tighten it. If you can get it to rotate right first, then it’ll spin left. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary S Minnesota 52 #10 Posted March 20 I had also stripped the drain plug using an impact wrench. Tried using a spiral bolt extractor. No luck. Then I used a left hand drill bit and inadvertently drilled all the way through—oil started dripping! From there I simplify drilled the rest of the plug body out and tapped new threads. Carefully flushed tranny several times and used a round magnet to trap any steel filings I may have created. Installed a bolt with a head and gasket. I can put a box end wrench on in the future. Downside is the Bolt head protrudes below the transmission housing. It is not flush like the original, but I don’t have any implements that it interferes with. If I had a welder handy, welding a nut to the plug would have saved me a lot of grief. A small flux welder is now on my list of next purchases. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #11 Posted March 20 Unfortunately, impacts on hex plugs will hammer out the flats and you end up in the above situation. Do more harm then good. I worked as a bush mechanic in the mining business for years and have taken out all sizes of stuck hex plugs and cap screws. The trick is to put constant tension on the plug or bolt and strike the head of the spud. The inward shock will help loosen without compromising the hex flats. The heat is a good idea. And there were times I would hit the plug or bolt head with a hammer before I tried to loosen with a key. Below is an example of how I took out stuck coil hex cap screws on a kohler block. They would not budge with just the Alan socket, so much the key was starting to twist. I held tension on the ratchet and rapped on the ratchet head to shock the bolt. The vid would not load for some reason. Small example but you get the idea. And these are not what a guy wants to snap or strip 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,080 #12 Posted March 20 Like @JoeM says, shocking threads is always a help! I have an impact driver that helps break stuff loose as well. In a pinch before, I’ve found a big box end wrench fits a screwdriver handle well. Then tap the screwdriver in the same fashion while turning the wrench. Lots of ways to skin this cat. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #13 Posted March 20 @ MIKE,S HORSE BARN , think the solid bottoming out of any , removal , extractor is vital , also using 6 point related movement ,socket , breaker bar , when its a very solid hook up , a careful pull start on the bar , usually does it , another thing , on that flush . is road time , not just a quick lawn drive , like hi mileage , atf fluid , as a cleaner / flusher , fuel oil is also good , also use , back and forth , for a distance , to increase the lube spray / flush , like lucas climbing gear oil , new shift boot , lubricated inside the bottom of boot to enhance slide , tye wrap that boot ABOVE THE BOOT to metal shaft , letting boot move , yet stay in place , done this to my 3 units , no issues , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,130 #14 Posted March 20 I pounded in a sacrificial torx bit last one I had and got lucky it popped loose. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,580 #15 Posted March 20 (edited) That's one problem with water being heavier than oil. It sinks to the bottom and goes right to the drain plug. Let it sit for awhile and you have a nice "rust weld". If all else fails, drill it out as close to the edge as possible, then re-tap it. Replace the plug using anti-seize. Edited March 20 by rmaynard 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,847 #16 Posted March 20 Heat it with a torch to break the rust. do this outside. Then tap a sacrificial torx into it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,436 #17 Posted March 20 17 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. Empty. Fill. Run it. Please also have a plan for responsibly dealing with the contaminated “empties." 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #18 Posted March 20 4 hours ago, Handy Don said: Please also have a plan for responsibly dealing with the contaminated “empties." Keeps the dust down on dirt roads.. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014 #19 Posted March 20 5 hours ago, Handy Don said: Please also have a plan for responsibly dealing with the contaminated “empties." I'm assuming by responsibly you don't mean burn it in a brush fire? I'll show myself out now...... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites