Kohler K321 bearing plate cracks

[Pfmet 5]

Was in here to replace oil seal today and after a little wiping down noticed all this. Is this common? I plan on on replacing the seal and buttoning things up for now. The motor is a well used 1971. A rebuild in in the near future I believe. Thank you for any thoughts, vey best, Peter

[ri702bill 8,322]

@Pfmet - Welcome!! What you have there are "normal" raised lines found on an aluminum casting.... I se NO evidence of oil intrusion from a full-thru crack. Carry on...!!

[kpinnc 12,061]

[Wild Bill 633 846]

Take a pick or finger nail to determine if they are raised casting veining or depressions from cracks.

[Pfmet 5]

Good evening gentlemen and thank you for the responses. Interestingly I noted both suggested attributes to these crack like features. As I rub a finger over many of the areas I can feel raised ridges, the cause of which I’d be curious to understand. Perhaps due to cooling of the casting or a reaction of the mold material? Spewing nonsense here perhaps but I’d love an explanation. However there were some features such as the one circled above and others around the hub which when probed with a pick were indeed fissures from which I was able to extricate the black goo covering most of the engine and transmission. I believe every seal on this machine leaks.

 

 As far as removing the old seal goes, this is something I’ve never done before so my comfort level is kind of low on this next step. I’m planning on driving a couple #6 self tapping screw into the seal on opposite sides and levering against the hub with some dikes hopefully budging it loose and out. I can’t get a good angle even with my smallest Mikita cordless drill to squarely drill a 1/8” hole into the center of that seal. I would need a very long drill to clear that crankshaft stub protruding through the bearing plate. Scared silly about scratching the crank or probably worse, the aluminum bearing plate. So my next thought is just remove the plate, remove the bearing, reinstall the plate with the prescribed gasket combination to achieve the correct crank endplay, and then install the new seal. I note in the assembly section 12 in the service manual it has you install the bearing plate and seal in the order. Less chance of damaging the seal apparently. 
 

Kinda wordy as I’m wont to be most times, I’ll apologize  for this to those of you more thrifty with words. But any one caring to blather on with thoughts and ideas or experiences I’m willing to listen and learn. Thank you again and have a great weekend. And best with your projects. Peter

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[squonk 41,118]

You can get long drill bits cheap at Harbor Freight. A lot easier than pulling the plate and going through the end play and gaskets.

Edited March 16 by squonk

[Pfmet 5]

And thank you squonk for that very intelligent direction. I did find they have 12” x 1/8” bits, cheap as you said. I’ve got a short list for there and will probably head there tomorrow. Twenty minutes away from me. We’re lucky on that front here. 

[Pfmet 5]

Got seriously distracted from this project so now I’m back and in need of guidance once again. There is no way that seal was coming out from the outside of the bearing plate. I was not able to safely drill and set a screw to extricate the seal. In my experience the seal was too narrow and the steel collar was not wide enough for me drill through. Both the bit and the #4 screw I attempted to use skidded off the metal ring towards the crankshaft. So off came the bearing plate and I was astounded at the effort required to “tap” that seal out from the inside with a rectangular tipped drift going round and round the seal finally requiring same solid raps to remove it. Anyway I now need to reinstall the bearing plate and since the original gasket came off very cleanly I figured I could simply reinstall it and achieve somewhat the appropriate original end play figure for the crank shaft. I miked the gasket at ~.008”. Without the bearing plate in place there is very little movement of the crank so I would judge that as long as that amount of movement remains after reinstallation things should be good. No way really to confirm that though. And a note about gaskets; I see two numbers listed for bearing plate gaskets in the parts manual, both of which are spec’d for Var 245 (my particular specification. Not a Wheel Horse application.)The part 235070 is shown as .010” thick and another source lists part 235757 as .032” thick. Wondered how these two different thicknesses come into play. I’ve seen reference to gasket sets with “shim” gaskets to fine tune that end play figure I guess. I have also seen threads on Cub Cadet where someone found 1 “thick” gasket and 2 “thin” gaskets in place, for a total of .052” perhaps. Way outside my measured thickness. I assume my gasket measures .008” since it’s been compressed already. Perhaps I should at least start with a new gasket. 
 

So there are my latest ramblings. I need to get this machine together as its time to move manure amongst the gardens. The project list is growing daily. As always, thanks for listening and best with all your projects. Peter

[Wild Bill 633 846]

I suggest using a new gasket. You can use a dial indicator mounted on an magnetic base to measure end play. I like the base that looks like a snake rather than solid rods.

[Pfmet 5]

Thank you Bill for that advice. I’ve ordered a .032” gasket and a 3pack of .010” “shims” I guess they’re referred to as. Found a reasonably priced flex shaft dial gauge on Amazon. I’m resisting the Harbor Freight $17 version for a $59 one. Not sure why but sometimes HF just seems too junky. I’m really curious about my end play situation now what with the single .010 shim/gasket that the motor has now. Seems too out of wack with what most of the reading and videos seems to imply there should be. Stuff shows up next week. I’ll keep you informed.