314-h hydro line

[Tim.0 39]

 

 

HI Tube 32 I can not find in stock, has anyone made one of these or had hydraulic line made. I have a crack at the flare on the metal tube. I have made plenty of brake lines in my day. Looks like a regulat flare, but maybe not. Thanks for any input.

 

 

 

 

[peter lena 8,610]

@ TIM .O , numerous auto parts have hydraulic  line make up , also  local truck stops , also lots of experience / ideas , good luck , pete

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

silly question -- would a hose work like on so many earlier hydros??

[Tim.0 39]

I was allways taught no question is stupid or silly. just trying to save myself time and go the right direction instead of chasing. There is a custom hydro hose company 45 minutes away I will go there tomorrow. Otherwise I will figure it out.

Thanks

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

8 hours ago, Tim.0 said:

 

 

HI Tube 32 I can not find in stock, has anyone made one of these or had hydraulic line made. I have a crack at the flare on the metal tube. I have made plenty of brake lines in my day. Looks like a regulat flare, but maybe not. Thanks for any input.

 

 

 

 

wheelhorsepartsandmore.com has variety of the hydraulic hoses you may need if you want option to buying from the local shop you mentioned

[JoeM 7,873]

Like the others have said replacing the line with hydraulic hose is and option but on some machines there is just not enough room. The tubing is much cleaner.

That line doesn't have super high pressure. It runs at 700 lbs and can be spliced with a compression fitting for steel tubing. if need be or just replacing one end.

 

A new line can be made.

Just like the brake lines but just a tad different.

If you want to change the entire line you can get new steel tubing and form it. 

I have found changing the fitting over to JIC and using steel tubing is good way to go. I have these style tubes on my front end loader works good there too. 

I have used JIC 37 degree fittings and flared the tube ends 

 

To convert the line to JIC tube or for that matter hose. You will have to change the fittings 33, and 19 to JIC to O-ring

the fittings are in the block and  hydro are O-ring boss so you will need one 90 and on straight 

I believe (going from memory here) the oring in the main lines is a #6 but please double check. 

The 90 Degree Elbow 6801-06-06

The straight part number is 6400-6-6

 

McMaster Carr sells the tubing and the ends.

The ends will need a single flare sliding on the nut on the tube and then the sleeve and single flare the end. this will allow it to connect to the JIC fitting.

50695K218 is the MMC number for the sleeve.

and 50695K226 is the MMC nuber for the nut

 

 

this is the tubing I used.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[squonk 41,068]

Cut the line where accessible. Make a new piece from the proper size brake line. Flare the end. You can use a compression connector or if you want to get fancy, flare the cut ends and use a flare connector.

[peter lena 8,610]

@Tim.0   another  correction  build up area , is to  HARD LINE THE  CURVED AREAS ,  eliminating  hose setting / cracking , thats how you want to set things up . an experienced shop , will ask you what you have , need , take a picture , plan on an improvement point . pete 

[Handy Don 12,213]

Last year I replaced both #21 and #32 as part of my work to add dual front remotes to a 520 chassis.

#21 (which runs from the pump to the control valve) is the only line that will see any significant pressure; #32 runs to the filter and transaxle “tank”.

 

@JoeM is on the money with doing replacements. Metal is better and there isn’t a lot of room anywhere! I used the new alloy brake line which is very easy to form, uses a regular tubing flare tool and won’t rust. Per its specs, working max pressure is 900psi, well under the 700. JIC connectors worked fine. I was a bit leery of tightening the connections, so I ran it and tightened until it stopped leaking and then gave it another 1/8th of a turn. Some advice I followed from an “old hand” at hydraulics was to make sure there are no rubbing edges against the tubing and to support it every 10-12 inches to prevent vibration that can weaken/break a connection.

 

You have flaring experience so a quick practice will get you dialed in on how much you need to extend beyond the tool to get the right length of flare.

 

Good luck!

[Tim.0 39]

Hi, Thank you for all the comments..SO I took a chance bought a hose and I could make it work, What I was afraid of everything is so tight and compact. Now I am back reading comments. I should have waited. Looks like JIc fittings on valve body 37 degree as brake lines are 45. Anyway Subaru dampner, crankshaft pulley gone to heck, push lawn mower out of way now. The brake line idea was something I thought about and Ill look at Joes comments.Great ideas  Ill get a 37 degree flaring kit I already have 3 tubing benders. Ill go to hard line and post back what I do.

 

Thank You for all the comments.

[cleat 5,926]

Here are a couple of pictures of my 312H hydraulic rubber lines showing the fittings and routing.

Top picture is as found and I assume factory routing.

Bottom is during the rebuild of that machine.

Hoses were all re-used with just new 'O' rings installed on the hose ends.

 

 

My 520's are a mix of rubber and hard lines from the factory depending on year.

Both work fine.

 

Edited March 14 by cleat

[Tim.0 39]

Thought to post back, and thanks for the comments. I bought a PT flaring 37 degree, not my favorite brand tool. Price was right. I used Nicopp brake line, nickel-copper. Not the prettiest job, came out bit long.(was going to recut...to much other things going) The 90 degree towards the front lil to sharp bend for th Nicopp flattened abit, material is soft very easy to work with, just almost to soft and plyable. Bought the fittings Joe has posted.

Will be taking apart for fall cleaning, inspect will see maybe make a different line. 2 45s degree towards front, Don is correct there is no room, its tight.

Just for fun tried acompression fitting, (Steel to nicopp) although I did not think it would work as compression fitting or at least the brass is made for soft metals and it didnt work, not surprised.

Fixed back mowing yesterday.

Thanks for everything guys.