MSBiker 46 #1 Posted March 8 I keep hearing horror stories about timing the Tecumseh H60. I have one I was going to install new points, condenser and possibly a mag coil. Everyone says it takes many install and removal operations of the flywheel to get it timed! Are the flywheel/magnets not keyed to the crank?! Is this just pressed on with no key? Does anyone have a good procedure for tuning and timing this engine after installing mag components? I haven't pulled one of these engines apart before so no clue what I need to do to get it right. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,814 #2 Posted March 8 The flywheel/magnets are keyed to the crank so no worries there. Set the points according to the manual and you shouldn't have any issue there. There should be a gauge on the points cover for gapping. I like to check for spark before torqueing the flywheel and putting tins on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,316 #3 Posted March 8 Are you replacing the coil?? IF you remove the adjustable mount, you will need to set the coil to magnet gap - BUT - it is inside the flywheel with no way to see it. Sooo, do not remove the mount! This may help explain more.... Tecumseh Manual 3-10 HP.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #4 Posted March 8 6 hours ago, MSBiker said: Everyone says it takes many install and removal operations of the flywheel to get it timed! This is the kind of garbage that keyboard warriors and rumor mongers have been spreading for 60 years. Follow the info posted above and you'll be fine. My added advice from personal experience: DO NOT use an incorrect tool for removing the flywheel from the crankshaft. https://youtu.be/5XqMo3gUWJo?si=i4Z_prOgHg55TqmA 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #5 Posted March 8 13 hours ago, ebinmaine said: This is the kind of garbage that keyboard warriors and rumor mongers have been spreading for 60 years. Follow the info posted above and you'll be fine. My added advice from personal experience: DO NOT use an incorrect tool for removing the flywheel from the crankshaft. https://youtu.be/5XqMo3gUWJo?si=i4Z_prOgHg55TqmA Correct tool for flywheel removal? I assumed (yeah I know) that light pressure on the flywheel and a light wack with a brass hammer would loosen it. Is there a specialized puller for this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #6 Posted March 8 47 minutes ago, MSBiker said: Correct tool for flywheel removal? I assumed (yeah I know) that light pressure on the flywheel and a light wack with a brass hammer would loosen it. Is there a specialized puller for this? Check the manual above. I'm not sure if there's a "puller" I do know there are special tools for knocking the flywheel off via front smackage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,994 #7 Posted March 9 2 hours ago, MSBiker said: light pressure on the flywheel and a light wack with a brass hammer That's how I took them off. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 886 #8 Posted March 9 The coil to magner cannot be changed on the Tecumseh. That is more or less a fixed dimension. The magneto bracket with the coil can be rotated but you cannot move it closer to the flywheel. The tool they sold to remove the flywheel was a piece of hex stock drilled and tapped on one end, screw it down close to flywheel and whack it! Carefully! This prevented damaging threads on the crank. They are in my shop could get a picture later. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #9 Posted March 14 On 3/8/2024 at 8:41 PM, Howie said: The coil to magner cannot be changed on the Tecumseh. That is more or less a fixed dimension. The magneto bracket with the coil can be rotated but you cannot move it closer to the flywheel. The tool they sold to remove the flywheel was a piece of hex stock drilled and tapped on one end, screw it down close to flywheel and whack it! Carefully! This prevented damaging threads on the crank. They are in my shop could get a picture later. Flywheel knockers, should still be able to buy them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #10 Posted March 14 57 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: Flywheel knockers, should still be able to buy them. Thanks Red-Z60, Got the flywheel off the normal hillbilly way, slight pressure on the flywheel with screwdriver and wack the crank and nut with a brass hammer. Glad to know I done have to worry about the air gap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #11 Posted March 14 New, related topic: anyone have a good way to remove the oil seal so I can remove the clip behind it and pull the cover off? I have another oil seal on order because, I assume you have to destroy this one taking it off. No big deal, just seems kinda backwards seal then clip... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,424 #12 Posted March 14 31 minutes ago, MSBiker said: New, related topic: anyone have a good way to remove the oil seal so I can remove the clip behind it and pull the cover off? I have another oil seal on order because, I assume you have to destroy this one taking it off. No big deal, just seems kinda backwards seal then clip... We're you able to download and peruse the manual from a few posts back? Not sure if that info is in there... Here's a couple other videos I'd saved: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #13 Posted March 14 40 minutes ago, MSBiker said: New, related topic: anyone have a good way to remove the oil seal so I can remove the clip behind it and pull the cover off? I have another oil seal on order because, I assume you have to destroy this one taking it off. No big deal, just seems kinda backwards seal then clip... What clip? Im assuming there is a snap ring over a bearing? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #14 Posted March 14 10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: We're you able to download and peruse the manual from a few posts back? Not sure if that info is in there... Here's a couple other videos I'd saved: The manual just says you have to remove it. Unfortunately both videos don't show how they removed the seal they just show it after it was removed. Thanks! I will do some more searching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #15 Posted March 14 28 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: What clip? Im assuming there is a snap ring over a bearing? Yeah, the snap ring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #16 Posted March 14 36 minutes ago, MSBiker said: Yeah, the snap ring. I just dont recall ever having to pull a snap ring on one. What does it retain? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #17 Posted March 15 (edited) 4 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: I just dont recall ever having to pull a snap ring on one. What does it retain? Thinking back, i usually just unbolted the cover, turned the bearing retainers, then pulled the cover off, if the ball bearing stayed on the crank, fine...if it stayed in the cover...also fine. Edited March 15 by RED-Z06 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSBiker 46 #18 Posted March 15 According to the book there is one behind the seal. The cover definitely won't come off easily. So there must be a snap ring back thers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #19 Posted March 15 14 minutes ago, MSBiker said: According to the book there is one behind the seal. The cover definitely won't come off easily. So there must be a snap ring back thers. Pictures of the book? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,725 #20 Posted March 15 Part Manual for H60 HH60 Models 75117 and 75118 show only a seal Tecumseh Manual 2.bmp 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #21 Posted April 9 How did this end up 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
