Leaky leaky fuel tank

[loudtractor 46]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this situation.

 

This tank is off a C-120 that I recently got in non running condition. Needs a little help in a few areas, but today I'm trying to get this tank working.

 

First, is there supposed to be some packing\o-ring in that gland nut,(I think that's what it is) the hollow nut on the left? It does not shut off the fuel.

 

Second, the whole assembly spins around on the bottom of the tank. Is that normal? It definitely leaks. Does it pop out, or.... I can't figure out how it seals

 

Hopefully someone has run into this and can help a guy out.

 

Thanks for any help!

Matt 

[ebinmaine 67,628]

The rubber piece that rotates in the bottom of the tank is a grommet.

 

Replace the valve and the grommet together as a set. I buy mine here:

 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fueltankvalve.php?clickkey=8569

 

I DO NOT advise buying the cheap stuff that is available all over fleeebay and the jungle site.

 

 

 

 

[loudtractor 46]

ThankYou! That looks like it'll do the trick. I wasted a lot of time looking for a shut off for a different machine

 This is a good source!

Now.... Onto the fuel pump.....

[ebinmaine 67,628]

8 minutes ago, loudtractor said:

ThankYou! That looks like it'll do the trick. I wasted a lot of time looking for a shut off for a different machine

 This is a good source!

Now.... Onto the fuel pump.....

Glad to help. 

Post about the pump when ya get in there...

[WHX?? 48,828]

That is a good price... and looks to be a 1/4 turn valve. 

Clean & grease every thing up before installing. Check tank bung for cracks & burrs. Install grommet first. 

[ebinmaine 67,628]

Just now, WHX?? said:

That is a good price... and looks to be a 1/4 turn valve. 

 

 

Mighta been yo buddy @Achto I got that info from...(?)

 

I REALLY like the 1/4 turn. 

 

No more trying to stuff my meat bear paws up under the tank to spin the knob. 

[loudtractor 46]

Argh! Out of stock. I still have a million things to fix on this relic, so I'll give them a week or so before I look for options. 

 

I found a used metal fuel pump, BTW, but cranking (jumping the solenoid) produced nothing out of the hose. Prolly needs a rebuild kit

[oliver2-44 9,761]

2 hours ago, loudtractor said:

I found a used metal fuel pump, BTW, but cranking (jumping the solenoid) produced nothing out of the hose. Prolly needs a rebuild kit

It may just need to be disassembled and cleaned.

There are 2 little springs and flat valve disc in there. 

Pay attention exactly how they are in there. one is the inlet check valve and the other side is the outlet check valve

I seem to recall that the Kohler manual has a diagram of the assembly

Then and Now automotive has rebuild kits for some of the metal fuel pumps. 

Last time I checked they were redoing their web site. google them and call them. Then send them a picture of your pump as there are several different but similar metal fuel pumps.

Edited March 7 by oliver2-44

[peter lena 8,634]

@loudtractor  done 3 of mine , like everything else on a horse , its the COLLECTIVE ISSUES , that overwhelm it ! always use  SUPER LUBE ,on a rubber / plastic grommet connection , makes slide , fitment easy , also TOTAL FUEL LINE replacement , 2 filters , 1 close to tank , 1 closer to carb . using STA BIL FUEL STORAGE , in all my gas , no fuel line break down , filters are clean / clear . drop carb bowl , for carbuncle's /  crap. personally like a run on a separate gallon of heavily treated fresh gas , also go over related carb linkage for function , like a rust penetrant , choke /  fuel cables , make the rust run out . personally like the CARBOLE  low pressure  ELECTRIC PUMP , just suggestions here , having played the carb/ fuel issue , made all the issues go away , inset that what you want ?   good luck pete

[loudtractor 46]

Thanks! I did look at The website. Hopefully today I can get the pump off and disassembled and match it up. 

I just want to get this one sparking, and cranking before I get too far. Might be rebuilding it depending on how it runs. If it does. It turns and has (some) compression. 

  I just finished a K181 in my 856, my first one, and really enjoyed it.

[loudtractor 46]

Great suggestions, Pete. For simple little tractors, things can certainly get complicated. I'll be rewiring everything, in addition to the things mentioned. This one is going to be a worker, so not so focused on bodywork, mainly going for mechanical perfection. Hopefully, no issues with the internals, we'll see.

[peter lena 8,634]

@loudtractor very simple /  easy to  penetrating  oil soak that down , let it sit in that perfect dry environment , oil will cut thru the paint crud , and wipe down easily with a clean oiled cloth , giving it a  patina finish , with out the work. stop rust , let it sit a day or two , initial wipe down could easily cut thru the  fade . would look period correct .  just a thought , pete 

[loudtractor 46]

That's the plan. Gotta get the grease and dirt off the bottom and hard to reach places. Then the oil treatment. They don't all need to be museum quality. 

[squonk 41,155]

All that oil just attracts dust and dirt. And it's a PITA to get all off if you want to paint later. Just brush or wipe this on. Looks fantastic, saves patina and if you want to paint later just scuff like you would have to do anyway.

 

[loudtractor 46]

Interesting. I'll get some and try it out.

Usually I disassemble and paint everything, but for this project this might be useful. There is almost zero rust, so not really needing the whole paint program