kwall828 63 #26 Posted February 22 22 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Should be a pull up lever ((??)) in the area front of the seat. NEVER try to engage that brake unless completely stopped. It’s disengage, just can’t engage it, no big deal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #27 Posted February 22 10 minutes ago, kwall828 said: It’s disengage, just can’t engage it, no big deal You may find you need to pull up and sort of rock the tractor to get it set just right. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,451 #28 Posted February 22 Just my but maybe just clean and fix what you need instead of repaint if that was in your plans. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,265 #29 Posted February 22 3 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said: Just my but maybe just clean and fix what you need instead of repaint if that was in your plans. Absolutely correct on that point. There are not many tractors for sale that have original paint with honest age that have not been painted over. When all or most of the original decals are there, it screams for an oiled finish. I usually start with penetrating oil soaking it a few times and maybe combined with 0W16 that comes from my oil change from the car. Yo need not soak the paint as the decals can wrinkle a bit if you do. The wheels on that tractor look too white to be original rustoleum linen for slightly off white or rustoleum almond for a bit more yellow are both close to factory colors depending on the year of manufacture. I made the mistake of taking apart a well worn original for a clean and paint. if i were to paint a tractor, I would do the tins with a spray gun and the frames would be done with Rustoleum red primer on the parts that show with a small roller and brushed in with a decent brush and light sanding followed with paint applied in the same fashion. even than , i would practice on a really derelict tractor . like a parts rig. Rustoleum is very forgiving in that it has cod oil in the paint and if there is a bit of oil on the tractor, the rustoleum combines with it and will not fish eye. I say all this simply because the rough parts of the tractor do not look much better when sprayed than when brushed. They also are hard to get 100% of the oil removal. The patina tractors look really great with nice wheels and a rubbed finish, to sum it all up. I once completely stripped, conditioned, and had a painting session that involved twenty four wheels in one afternoon placed on a lazy susan. They turned out really nice 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,451 #30 Posted February 23 (edited) 20 hours ago, ohiofarmer said: Absolutely correct on that point. There are not many tractors for sale that have original paint with honest age that have not been painted over. When all or most of the original decals are there, it screams for an oiled finish. I usually start with penetrating oil soaking it a few times and maybe combined with 0W16 that comes from my oil change from the car. Yo need not soak the paint as the decals can wrinkle a bit if you do. The wheels on that tractor look too white to be original rustoleum linen for slightly off white or rustoleum almond for a bit more yellow are both close to factory colors depending on the year of manufacture. I made the mistake of taking apart a well worn original for a clean and paint. if i were to paint a tractor, I would do the tins with a spray gun and the frames would be done with Rustoleum red primer on the parts that show with a small roller and brushed in with a decent brush and light sanding followed with paint applied in the same fashion. even than , i would practice on a really derelict tractor . like a parts rig. Rustoleum is very forgiving in that it has cod oil in the paint and if there is a bit of oil on the tractor, the rustoleum combines with it and will not fish eye. I say all this simply because the rough parts of the tractor do not look much better when sprayed than when brushed. They also are hard to get 100% of the oil removal. The patina tractors look really great with nice wheels and a rubbed finish, to sum it all up. I once completely stripped, conditioned, and had a painting session that involved twenty four wheels in one afternoon placed on a lazy susan. They turned out really nice Sounds like you have a plane. Just take your time with it and most of all ENJOY THE RIDE. I did this a few years ago because the p/o only did the out side it basically had three shades of red. Did not want to do this but it looks better than three shades of red. Edited February 23 by Retired Wrencher 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse#1 1,657 #31 Posted February 23 Decent machine.I have a 74 Auto.Only thing I didn’t like about was the motion control mounted at the center console, found it to be awkward. I opted to change it to a side motion Control much better especially when pushing snow . Have fun…nice machine ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #32 Posted February 24 12 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said: a 74 Auto. How's your marked? Should be a "C ***" if it's a 74? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kwall828 63 #33 Posted February 24 I’ve repaired and painted cars for last 40years so this will probably be a pice of cake , retired so a good project in winter when fishing slow down, the vavle you loosen to push it around might be a pain as it looks rusty so I started to soak it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kwall828 63 #34 Posted February 24 On 2/23/2024 at 5:54 AM, Retired Wrencher said: Sounds like you have a plane. Just take your time with it and most of all ENJOY THE RIDE. I did this a few years ago because the p/o only did the out side it basically had three shades of red. Did not want to do this but it looks better than three shades of red. Nice job 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #35 Posted February 24 19 minutes ago, kwall828 said: I’ve repaired and painted cars for last 40years so this will probably be a pice of cake , retired so a good project in winter when fishing slow down, the vavle you loosen to push it around might be a pain as it looks rusty so I started to soak it That Tow Valve is well known to be rusted on many tractors. There's an oring of rubber and one of a plastic material. Both available as replacements. Don't be afraid to use a little heat to loosen it. On my C160 Automatic a previous owner had already cracked the end. I used a vise grip to break it free then J. B. Welded a nut to the end of it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,688 #36 Posted February 24 On 2/21/2024 at 1:46 PM, Maz91 said: there’s a collector in your area putting them all in a garage! Who on earth would do such a thing? I mean come on! 😜 3 1 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse#1 1,657 #37 Posted February 24 8 hours ago, ebinmaine said: How's your marked? Should be a "C ***" if it's a 74? Sorry, yes you are correct .Its a 1973. Hope to get around to painting it someday…I just don’t like to paint much.Its currently primed 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #38 Posted February 24 38 minutes ago, c-series don said: Who on earth would do such a thing? I mean come on! 😜 And I think BBT and I got plenty at 15 or so!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #39 Posted February 24 1 minute ago, Wheelhorse#1 said: Sorry, yes you are correct .Its a 1973. Hope to get around to painting it someday…I just don’t like to paint much.Its currently primed Kinda like the look of it now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
