RED-Z06 2,221 #1 Posted February 8 I think the lift has a "thermal safety" that would normally kick in if it sensed the electric motor getting too hot, something has apparently happened because if i lower the lift, and raise it, it cuts out for right about 15 seconds then it resets. Maybe an auto reset circuit breaker somewhere has failed? I dont see a breaker under the dash and ive had the motor apart and i didn't see anything that looked like a circuit interrupter there. Anyone that has dealt with the stock electric lift had to deal with this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #2 Posted February 8 (edited) I looked at a harness I have and did not see a breaker just a fuse holder. That relay might be the problem?? Here is the instructions incase you don't have them. ElectricLift.pdf Edited February 8 by JoeM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #3 Posted February 8 I also found this in my files and I am not sure if your actuator has the built in overload or not but you may find out in the literature. ElectricActuator.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #4 Posted February 8 It would be nice to put an ammeter in line and see what the amp draw is before it kicks off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #5 Posted February 8 2 hours ago, JoeM said: I looked at a harness I have and did not see a breaker just a fuse holder. That relay might be the problem?? Here is the instructions incase you don't have them. ElectricLift.pdf 1.3 MB · 0 downloads This setup has no relays, its powered directly through the contacts in the switch ss far as i can trace it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #6 Posted February 8 2 hours ago, squonk said: It would be nice to put an ammeter in line and see what the amp draw is before it kicks off. Its pulling about 2amps lifting then spikes 7amp at the stop which kills power about 15 seconds. I did find that the rear brace was a bit loose and was binding just a bit, the shaft is supposed to free spin at the end of the stroke and mine wasn't, i worked it with lube and pliers and its free spinning again. Its better now, its usable but it still will cut out if it hits the end of the down stroke which stops the shaft. Its like a breaker, around 7.5amps i guess, it kicks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #7 Posted February 8 https://www.progressiveautomations.com/blogs/products/limit-switches-vs-overcurrent-protection-which-is-best-for-my-application Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #8 Posted February 8 3 hours ago, RED-Z06 said: Its pulling about 2amps lifting then spikes 7amp at the stop which kills power about 15 seconds. I am thinking that is a B Track Actuator and 7 amp is on the low end. It shows an internal OL Might be bad. That's all folks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #9 Posted February 9 1 hour ago, JoeM said: I am thinking that is a B Track Actuator and 7 amp is on the low end. It shows an internal OL Might be bad. That's all folks. Thats what i expected to find in the motor, i had it completely apart last year because the 2 long bolts were pulling the threads out the base, i had to remove the bolts, the end cap, then pull the housing and armature out. I took the time to clean the comm, and bushing cups, dab of grease there...but i didnt see anything on the end cap with the brushes or in the stator housing, that looked like a disconnect or out of the ordinary. Maybe i missed it and its just small, but stuff 50 years ago wasnt usually subtle. I can lift and lower the deck repeatedly for 2 minutes without any problems, but if it sits on the stop for just a moment...it stops. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,282 #10 Posted February 12 On 2/8/2024 at 7:13 PM, RED-Z06 said: Maybe i missed it and its just small, but stuff 50 years ago wasnt usually subtle. The early “thermal” cutoffs I’ve seen personally were bi-metallic strips housed to look a lot like a relay with only two terminals. Excess current heated the strip but one metal expanded more than the other so the strip “curved” and broke the connection. Cooled down, the contact was restored. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites