Daron1965 644 #1 Posted February 5 I’m looking for a new drive belt for my 312-8. I have a few questions? What is the correct belt size, part # and what brand do you guys recommend? Do I have to remove the seat and rear tins to replace the belt? thank you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040 #2 Posted February 5 What is the model and serial number of your tractor? Both are necessary to look at the correct illustrated parts list. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,141 #3 Posted February 5 (edited) You only need to remove the belt guard, the idler pulley, and the PTO brake to replace the belt. This may help. .310-8 Clutch Problem - Transmissions and transaxles - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum Edited February 5 by Ed Kennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,069 #4 Posted February 5 A lot of guys will say you have to use a WH belt but that's I have had better luck with TSC belts and Napa (Gates) belts than the few WH belts I have purchased over the years. Most likely your tractor takes a TORO 108501 which is a Tractor Supply 5L820 or a Napa 5L820W 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,610 #6 Posted February 5 @Ed Kennell , been using those for years , been bombproof , have them on my mower decks too , they don't start to fray or separate like the rubber belts . often experiment with any regular service issue , make it easier / better / improve it . also have the belt sleeves , right next to related unit . more often than not , original set up , just needs some tweaking , for more efficient service / life . Pete 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,141 #7 Posted February 5 (edited) 4 minutes ago, peter lena said: also have the belt sleeves , right next to related unit I always write the date installed on the sleeve and stick it behind the battery. The belts are good quality and I also like to buy locally. When I am building a custom where I'm not sure what belt length will work best, I buy several different lengths , then return the unused belts for a full refund. Edited February 5 by Ed Kennell 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,007 #8 Posted February 5 (edited) 2 hours ago, squonk said: I have had better luck with TSC belts and Napa (Gates) belts than the few WH belts I have purchased over the years. There was a time that I would argue OEM quality and special size requirements all day long. But since they no longer manufacture those belts, whatever you find is at least 30 years old. Rubber belts don't last much longer than that so you'd be buying a practically dry hardened belt waiting to fail... The TSC (huskie) belts are fabric covered as well, so they slip nicely on the pulleys for a manual transmission, but not so much on a hydro. They are very hard to beat, and priced far better as well. Edited February 5 by kpinnc 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 456 #9 Posted February 5 And don't buy the "Mower Shop" BS that you need a "Mower deck belt" and can't use a normal v-belt. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,141 #10 Posted February 5 1 hour ago, Wayne0 said: And don't buy the "Mower Shop" BS that you need a "Mower deck belt" and can't use a normal v-belt. Just make sure the belt you buy is designed for back side tensioner pulleys. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,069 #11 Posted February 5 10 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Just make sure the belt you buy is designed for back side tensioner pulleys. Correct. "A" and "B" series belts are not designed to be run on the back side. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daron1965 644 #12 Posted February 7 I ordered the huskee belt from our local tractor supply. They just happened to be sold out in the store. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
