WheelHorseVH 104 #1 Posted February 1 On a 520H, anyone done this? Looks like a rollpin holding it on? Slightly right of center in the pic, you are looking down where the lift trunnion is accessed with the panel removed. I have a set of rollpin drift punches that made it a breeze to get the steering wheel off but not sure about how I would get one down in here to hammer it out. What have others done? Thank you 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #2 Posted February 1 I went through this on my 520. But geez, I just can't remember. Need to look a few things up. See if I can find out. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #3 Posted February 1 @WheelHorseVH access / set up is the key to this , also get some soaking going on / preferability KROIL penetrating oil , like solid round stock with a 3 lb. hammer , the initial hit will tell you if you are on spot . might even back up the area if possible , the more impact , without bounce is what you want . good luck ,pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #4 Posted February 1 It should have a Spirol pin, not an ordinary roll pin. The Spirol pin has extra layers increasing the strength considerably. I used a small, but high strength, C clamp to remove or install the pin. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #5 Posted February 1 @lynnmor those spiral pins with , that length split , and Kroil , that pin is no problem , with solid impact . first 3 lb. hammer hit , its moving , thats what I use to get the rust moving , on steering wheel removal , have not used a C clamp , but will try it on next , tough spot . Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #6 Posted February 1 2 minutes ago, peter lena said: @lynnmor those spiral pins with , that length split , and Kroil , that pin is no problem , with solid impact . first 3 lb. hammer hit , its moving , thats what I use to get the rust moving , on steering wheel removal , have not used a C clamp , but will try it on next , tough spot . Pete There is no good way to swing a large hammer unless you do a considerable disassembly. If at least a portion of the old pin still has engagement to align the holes, it is a rather easy job. If the holes need to be found, I use a short, slightly undersized pin or screw to keep things in place while pushing in the new pin. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,436 #7 Posted February 1 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: considerable disassembly Tucked in there you have no room for support bracing or a hammer swing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorseVH 104 #8 Posted February 1 The steering wheel was remarkably easy to remove. I bought a set of roll pin punches off amazon and used the 1/4” one. I had the wheel pushed against myself while I leaned over it to the other side and hammered in towards my body. That kept the steering wheel and shaft from bouncing around from the blows. The motion lever on the other hand has no room to do that, and a bit more rust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #9 Posted February 1 10 minutes ago, WheelHorseVH said: The steering wheel was remarkably easy to remove. I bought a set of roll pin punches off amazon and used the 1/4” one. I had the wheel pushed against myself while I leaned over it to the other side and hammered in towards my body. That kept the steering wheel and shaft from bouncing around from the blows. The motion lever on the other hand has no room to do that, and a bit more rust. The SPIROL PIN 7/32X7/8 in the motion control is a lot stiffer than the ordinary roll pin in the steering wheel, so the amount of force won't be the same. Of course rust or wear might make the removal or installation force highly variable. While on the subject, anyone with a hand operated motion control lever might want to lay in a few spare Spirol pins, part number 933198, because they are hard to come by outside of the Toro website. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorseVH 104 #10 Posted February 2 Good suggestion on grabbing spares of that pin. I am fairly certain the steering wheel had the Spirol pin too now that you mention it. It was a lot beefier and rolled up than a standard split pin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #11 Posted February 2 @lynnmor thanks for the reply , realize the typical difficulty to get at something , that you are looking right at . just about every one of them is different . made a point of , roller stooling around , my stuff. more often than not , that gives me another view and idea , to solve or improve something . my steering wheels , were all lightly wire brushed out , to remove rust / crust , then Kroil / never seize , solid round punch , hammer made it simple . don't crawl around like a snake any more . Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,436 #12 Posted February 2 I’ve often wondered about, and haven’t yet tried, adapting a roll pin punch to a hammer drill. Lots of short, strong hits in a more maneuverable configuration. Any insights or experiences with this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorseVH 104 #13 Posted February 2 Funny you say that. I saw a video on youtube of a guy using a pneumatic palm nailer with a punch in it to remove the pin. Worked in 3 seconds and shot the pin out. Also small form factor. That is what I am going to try here 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,774 #14 Posted February 3 10 hours ago, Handy Don said: I’ve often wondered about, and haven’t yet tried, adapting a roll pin punch to a hammer drill. Lots of short, strong hits in a more maneuverable configuration. Any insights or experiences with this? I tried it with an air chisel, still couldn't get the roll pin out. That was the clutch lever on and 8 speed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
