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Treepep

Carb question.

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Treepep

Long story but last year was a bust.  Unfortunately some of my equipment suffered.  I am curious if anyone has any insight into separating this simple carb.  A kit is ten bucks shipped.  A carb is 185.00 plus shipping.  Probably my favorite piece of equipment.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. 1958 DB super 300

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Achto
 
lynnmor

Looks like you have the screws out so just pry it apart.

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WHX??

I'm not a gambling man but rolled the dice on another off shore carb and now have two decent running techies. 

That said I wouldn't be afraid to try that Flo jet for that kinda money. Dan and I got a buddy that runs them on his Simplecity Briggs with some luck. 

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gwest_ca

Above the high speed mixture screw is a long jet that reaches the top of the carb. That jet must be removed before separating the carb halves. Can give you a tip when putting it back together so the nozzle does not leak. Make sure you have a screwdriver that fits the nozzle correctly as they are easily damaged.

If this is not the correct manual let us know.

 

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Treepep
6 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Above the high speed mixture screw is a long jet that reaches the top of the carb. That jet must be removed before separating the carb halves. Can give you a tip when putting it back together so the nozzle does not leak. Make sure you have a screwdriver that fits the nozzle correctly as they are easily damaged.

If this is not the correct manual let us know.

 

Yes sir, that is the one.  I need to remove the emulsion tube first. 

 

Many thanks 

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Treepep
 
Treepep

18 bucks for the new carb shipped and back in business.  Thanks again!

 

Still waiting for the ten buck rebuild kit.  Probably rebuild and keep the original carb in the shelf.  

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WHX??

Like  @Achto says the new one will most likely leak as much gas by as the orginal. Good luck with it :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Achto
17 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Like  @Achto says the new one will most likely leak as much gas by as the orginal.

 

Flow jets are not my favorite carb in the world, but the after market ones work pretty well.

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WHX??
1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

Flow jets are not my favorite carb in the world, but the after market ones work pretty well.

Nuff said as in we are not doing a moon shot but just trying to keep old stuff running. 

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Handy Don
14 hours ago, WHX?? said:

keep old stuff running.

Who are you referring to here? :D :hide:

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Treepep
17 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Like  @Achto says the new one will most likely leak as much gas by as the orginal. Good luck with it :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

The  New carburetor feels like a cheap toy but works well and easily adjusted.  Pleasantly pleased!  My main problem was the tank.  In great shape outside.  Inside is a rust bomb.  I have a large radiator fabrication company near me.  So far I have been unable to convince them to mess with my 1 gallon tank.  

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wallfish
4 hours ago, Treepep said:

 

 

The  New carburetor feels like a cheap toy but works well and easily adjusted.  Pleasantly pleased!  My main problem was the tank.  In great shape outside.  Inside is a rust bomb.  I have a large radiator fabrication company near me.  So far I have been unable to convince them to mess with my 1 gallon tank.  

Load some nuts and bolts or screws in it, shake it to scrape off the big stuff. Empty them out and blow out the dust. Fill it with vinegar and depending upon the amount of rust, that will determine how long. Usually a day or 2 takes care of it. If needed you can nut bolt or screw again to scrape it. When done rinse with water and a little bit of baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. Blow it dry.

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Load some nuts and bolts or screws in it, shake it to scrape off the big stuff. Empty them out and blow out the dust. Fill it with vinegar and depending upon the amount of rust, that will determine how long. Usually a day or 2 takes care of it. If needed you can nut bolt or screw again to scrape it. When done rinse with water and a little bit of baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. Blow it dry.

Go ahead and put the vinegar in WITH the assorted hardware if you’d like them cleaned at the same time! :)

If there is a lot of rust, it’ll probably be helpful to replace the vinegar at least once--my first fill-up came out looking like root beer after a 24 hour soak and lots of shaking.

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wallfish
14 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If there is a lot of rust, it’ll probably be helpful to replace the vinegar at least once--my first fill-up came out looking like root beer after a 24 hour soak and lots of shaking.

Do you think the acid in the vinegar looses it's corrosion properties? Weaken? I was filtering it and putting it back in the gallon bottles on a huge tank I did for the Roof 60. 4 gallons. Was I wasting time? Wanted to use it for future stuff just like Treeprep needs for smaller tanks and already used some. It's cheap so maybe I'm just a hoarder and see purpose everything. even the things I should just toss.

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Handy Don
15 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Do you think the acid in the vinegar looses it's corrosion properties? Weaken? I was filtering it and putting it back in the gallon bottles on a huge tank I did for the Roof 60. 4 gallons. Was I wasting time? Wanted to use it for future stuff just like Treeprep needs for smaller tanks and already used some. It's cheap so maybe I'm just a hoarder and see purpose everything. even the things I should just toss.

I don’t have a definitive answer but I suspect that the chemical interaction between the acid and the rust does neutralize some of the acidity, especially if there are a lot of suspended oxidized particles.

I did my first dose by filling the tank only about ⅓ full and doing a lot of turning and shaking to dislodge the rust thinking that the liquid would be more effective than doing it dry. That was the “root beer” result. Next I did a splash rinse to get more residue out. Last was a full fill and a long sit. That stayed fairly clean and in future, I’d probably filter and store it.

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wallfish
1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

I don’t have a definitive answer but I suspect that the chemical interaction between the acid and the rust does neutralize some of the acidity, especially if there are a lot of suspended oxidized particles.

I did my first dose by filling the tank only about ⅓ full and doing a lot of turning and shaking to dislodge the rust thinking that the liquid would be more effective than doing it dry. That was the “root beer” result. Next I did a splash rinse to get more residue out. Last was a full fill and a long sit. That stayed fairly clean and in future, I’d probably filter and store it.

The nice thing about using vinegar is it isn't a hazardous chemical. Yeah, it'll kill the grass but it's easily disposed of too. 

Plus it works well enough.  Are you happy with the results?

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Treepep
10 hours ago, wallfish said:

Do you think the acid in the vinegar looses it's corrosion properties? Weaken? I was filtering it and putting it back in the gallon bottles on a huge tank I did for the Roof 60. 4 gallons. Was I wasting time? Wanted to use it for future stuff just like Treeprep needs for smaller tanks and already used some. It's cheap so maybe I'm just a hoarder and see purpose everything. even the things I should just toss.

 

I wont get into all of the things. we ALL save for seemingly no reason.  Raised by frugal parents.  I have read the threads here about the acid and agitation.  I think @pullstart strapped the tank to the horse wheels and drove around to dislodge rust.  I get that!  Then do most folks attempt to seal the tank or is that another P.I.T.A.  I do not want to get into?

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wallfish
5 hours ago, Treepep said:

 

I wont get into all of the things. we ALL save for seemingly no reason.  Raised by frugal parents.  I have read the threads here about the acid and agitation.  I think @pullstart strapped the tank to the horse wheels and drove around to dislodge rust.  I get that!  Then do most folks attempt to seal the tank or is that another P.I.T.A.  I do not want to get into?

I've cleaned many in which the vinegar was enough. The only reason you would need to seal is if it leaks. But I've done some in which the vinegar ate enough rust that it left pin holes.

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Handy Don
20 hours ago, wallfish said:

The nice thing about using vinegar is it isn't a hazardous chemical. Yeah, it'll kill the grass but it's easily disposed of too. 

Plus it works well enough.  Are you happy with the results?

Yes. It didn’t remove every single bit of rust down to bare metal--there are still some speckles of black on the bottom. I’ll keep an eye on it when I fuel up to see if it needs further attention.

 

10 hours ago, Treepep said:

attempt to seal the tank or is that another P.I.T.A. 

In my case, the tank was solid with no leaks so no additional sealing required. I went looking when I found a tiny bit of “rust dust” in the dry carb bowl when doing a regular “wake up” maintenance. It had been drained before storage about two year ago and kept in an unheated garage since.

 

Finishing off, the carb bowl was otherwise clean so I gave the carb jets a quick shot of cleaner and buttoned the whole thing back together with new fuel line & filter. Cranked for maybe 5 seconds with full choke (Tecumseh’s seem to like some choke, even when warm) and then lit off just fine and I went out and put it to work.

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