Shuboxlover 479 #1 Posted January 21, 2024 I have the snowblower in the attached picture. If I wanted to mount this on an Electro 12, would all I need to do is install a newer front attach bracket from the 70's/80's/90's (if that's even possible)? Or is it more involved than that? Thanks! Tyson 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,485 #2 Posted January 21, 2024 9 minutes ago, Shuboxlover said: install a newer front attach bracket from the 70's/80's/90's 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 479 #3 Posted January 21, 2024 (edited) Will the Electro front axle pin be long enough or will I need a newer one of those as well? Also, will the three mounting holes for the attach bracket be in the front of the frame? Also, will the lift tube for the blower be the correct length or will it need shortened? I wish the tractor was in my shop as I wouldn't even need to ask these questions, but it's not and I've never had an Electro to compare. Edited January 21, 2024 by Shuboxlover 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,087 #4 Posted January 21, 2024 @Shuboxlover glairing to me , made improvements, that drive / idler pully frame , is steel to steel / rust mount , lubricate it , also the idler pulleys , could probably , get a RE GREASE , original grease fails , and reduces drive speed , also increases PTO drive clutch wear . lube up ,chute base / gear drive to it . my blowers move easily , by hand at the belt drive area , also get after , auger chain adjustment , 1/2 " and use a specific chain lubricant on it . realize this not what you are asking for , but its definitely related , easy rotational speed , is telling you things are good , a screaming / dragging belt drive is telling you , it should be better . you might also have someone else , slowly engage what you have , so you can see the rusty , dragging areas , aerosol penetrant / red grease , is very good . just some ideas , Pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,485 #5 Posted January 21, 2024 9 hours ago, Shuboxlover said: Will the Electro front axle pin be long enough or will I need a newer one of those as well? No, drill the hole bigger to go around the pin, or it might just fit in the hole or get another pin or use nuts as spacers to stand it off the front a little. Also, will the three mounting holes for the attach bracket be in the front of the frame? No, drill holes to mount with bolts. Anything before 72 will not have those holes for one Also, will the lift tube for the blower be the correct length or will it need shortened? It should be close if not perfect, Not a big deal to cut it shorter or add washers for shims for any adjustment if needed. Those frames should be about the same dimensions if not exactly the same. I wish the tractor was in my shop as I wouldn't even need to ask these questions, but it's not and I've never had an Electro to compare. Me either but WH was steady with their basic design and not many crazy changes happened. Get the tractor Get the blower Get the front Tach A Matic Most of your questions will be answered and the blower will work on that tractor. Modifications might include drilling some holes or you can get involved as much you want to Another option is to weld bars or angle to the sides of the Tach A Matic to bolt it on the frame rails. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,324 #6 Posted January 21, 2024 Couple alternatives Along Wallfish's idea there is a Wheel horse bolt on pair of plates that let you use a front tachmatic. Have to look part number up for you later see it in pic 1 or replace the mounting frame with one from a pretachmatic blower... it bolts right into the blower housing and you use a long bolt through the tractor frame pic 2 is for tachmatic pic 3 direct bolt to frame. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,036 #7 Posted January 21, 2024 (edited) Not sure about an Electro 12, but I had to cut the hood hinges off a Raider to bolt on the front hitch. I bolted the hinge brackets back to the hitch. I also had to add 5/8" spacer behind the hitch.at the top. I lined up the axle pivot and used a 3/4" bolt that the unthreaded part long enough to go through all three holes. I also add a couple of washers as the unthreaded area came past the hitch, I cut the head off the bolt and added the tab to bolt to the axle. There are added washers behind the hood hinges to get them to line up with the ones on the hood. Edited January 21, 2024 by Lee1977 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,324 #8 Posted January 21, 2024 side Plates are 8-5551 The bolt through mounting frame is 6424 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
