Pullstart 62,834 #1 Posted January 13 My shop floor has a drain. It seems to be higher than the entire work bay. It requires a huge amount of water to get the drain wet. I used to have a big rubber mat lined with 2x4s under the edges and a hole over the drain to contain run off of snow covered or ice covered vehicles. It eventually became brittle, cracked and fell apart. Now, I wonder if it would be advantageous to grind some lead into the drain, or to apply self leveling concrete all around the shop to fill the low points? The issue with adding self leveling compounds, is I don’t want it level, I want it sloped. I’m just tired of water not going where I think it it should be, but where gravity takes it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,064 #2 Posted January 13 Common theme: Drain higher than the floor. Really is a PITA when it's in a shower room on the 2nd floor! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,314 #3 Posted January 13 (edited) Hmmm.... maybe treating the symptom, not the cause??? Can you pour on top of the concrete to gain the necessary pitch for decent draining?? If the raised height interferes with door / driveway access height, needum a Plan B.... Edited January 13 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,525 #4 Posted January 13 Whole floor higher than the drain or drain itself slightly higher? Could lower the drain and grind path(s) to it... How about a pic? Maybe saw cut and install a simple trench drain connected to existing drain...? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,314 #5 Posted January 13 5 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Maybe saw cut and install a simple trench drain connected to existing drain Ya think he just might trip over that.... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #6 Posted January 13 Keep in mind I have a two post hoist in there. There’s no way I’m cutting any more relief or trench systems. I don’t want no automotive sink holes now. 31 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Can you pour on top of the concrete to gain the necessary pitch for decent draining?? Precisely what I’m asking. Would it be more advantageous to pour around the edges of the room in a series of pours and hope to create a built up slope? I don’t know. 31 minutes ago, ri702bill said: If the raised height interferes with door / driveway access height, needum a Plan B.... 10’+ high doors, I can adjust the latches if needed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,314 #7 Posted January 13 1 hour ago, Pullstart said: If the raised height interferes with door / driveway access height, needum a Plan B.... I was referring to the mis-match of 2 heights on the floor surface - may be dead even to the driveway now, but raising the floor creates a vertical edge...... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #8 Posted January 13 13 minutes ago, ri702bill said: I was referring to the mis-match of 2 heights on the floor surface - may be dead even to the driveway now, but raising the floor creates a vertical edge...... Got ya, like the need to feather a curb outwards. So, anyone with concrete grinding experience? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,873 #9 Posted January 13 I ground around the perimeter of my drains with an angle grinder and concrete wheel. it was only a few inches tho. It came off pretty easy, but dusty as desert. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh500special 2,168 #10 Posted January 13 We had a contractor come in where I used to work years ago to grind the floor. We were prepping for an epoxy floor and it was for general cleanup and to re-level a few spots. He used big diamond grinders that sort of looked like big, walk-behind electric planers. I think there was a propane engine on the big one and the smaller ones for the edges were electric. They were called scarifiers. Worked well, made a huge mess. I don’t remember if they did it wet or dry. He used a head that left a nice tooth to the concrete for the epoxy to trowel into, but I think they can leave a smooth finish too if desired. Doesn’t seem like a DIY process but I am guessing you can rent the equipment. Steve 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,064 #11 Posted January 13 Brand new building. We had to get the floors reground in the staff locker rooms. We didn't notice until a surgeon dropped a pencil as he was getting changed and it rolled away! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #12 Posted January 14 Self-leveling stuff is amazing as a base for an INDOOR installation and only when covered with a more durable flooring material. 6 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Maybe saw cuts ... connected to a slot cut in the side of the existing drain...? If there are only a couple of places where water pools (and it's not much water), you might do this or maybe just drill holes in the floor for it to drain into the gravel underneath? Ticklish making the saw cuts pitch properly (so they don’t become water collectors themselves) and the cuts can become “fault” lines allowing the concrete relief during further settling. There are also companies that use horizontal drilling to get piping under floors to install outlet lines for additional drains from targeted mid-floor locations. Retrofitting the recommended ⅛” per foot pitch into a finished concrete floor is a pro job, as @wh500special noted. I’m assuming one workbay would measure 16x32 (?) which would put a 1” lip at the sides and 2” lip at the ends (and 2+ inches at the corners) with a center drain--plenty enough to trip over all the time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,067 #13 Posted January 14 How much money are you wanting to spend on it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #14 Posted January 14 19 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: How much money are you wanting to spend on it ? Well, none if I can help it! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,175 #15 Posted January 15 Check with your rental stores to see if they rent terrazzo grinders. They have onboard water to cool the stone and keep the dust down. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #16 Posted January 15 On 1/13/2024 at 1:07 PM, SylvanLakeWH said: How about a pic? This little timelapse shows the water running away from the drain… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #17 Posted January 15 The guy who owns the ‘27 Bugatti kit car I worked on last year runs the rental dept. at a local orange box store. He said they have one that runs wet or dry for about $250/day. I think it would be well worth it! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,304 #18 Posted January 15 In my humble opinion, the only real fix is a new floor tilted about 4 inches towards the door. My thought would be to put in one of those cheap shelters for a drying bay and use that torpedo heater to heat it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,525 #19 Posted January 15 I'd cut out a 3'x3' square at drain, then lower it ~2" and grade 3' square concrete to new drain cover. Grinding won't do anything without dropping drain lip... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #20 Posted January 15 2 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Grinding won't do anything without dropping drain lip... Absolutely! At my old house, the end of my drive was about 6” below the sewer drain that the county put in. When I called to report the issue, they would dispatch two guys with some shovels to bend. The trench they dug to the drain was a great trench. But the drain was still higher than the low spot! 6” of water across the road ate a lot of bumper plastic! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,873 #21 Posted January 15 I just don't see grinding making this better. It may help but a better option might be to cut some kind of half pipe drain notch in the concrete to the drain. Maybe 2 inch channel figure plastic would not do well with welding and burning. Just a thought. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #22 Posted January 15 @JoeM how do you suppose that would hold up with the weight of the hoist and a vehicle? I know scoring the ‘Crete can add a break line. I can’t imagine any trenching to do a positive within the structure. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,873 #23 Posted January 16 2 hours ago, Pullstart said: hold up with the weight of the hoist and a vehicle IDK depends what is the spec on the concrete. ?? Reinforced? Rebar or wire, thickness and rating of the concrete. Does it meet the hoist requirements. I know some folks just put them in and not think about spec. Maybe down the middle and across on the ends. ?? The long and the short, find out about the floor and consult the mfg of the hoist before making any alterations. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 2,986 #24 Posted January 18 Neighbor had a similar problem in his new shop, another neighbor is in the concert cutting business. He cut several small about 3/8th wide channels gradually sloping to the drain, my neighbor is happy with it. It only took the guy about an hour to cut about 8 channels. Kev, if you really won't to save money Lowes, HD, TSC and many others sell a nice 30" squeegee for about $15.00, that's what I use. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
