RED-Z06 2,221 #51 Posted January 18 I tried alot of leds in my C100 and most didnt work well, but these are great...been in for about 7 months and still working like new. No flickering either. I had to lightly sand the top edge to clear them into the housing but once in they have alot of room and you can swivel them in, straight or to the sides. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #52 Posted January 18 I have used the led bulbs in my old chrome light sets for five or six years now. I like them and feel they give good light! 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #53 Posted January 18 Just not a fan of LED Wrong color for me...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,508 #54 Posted January 18 Just now, johnnymag3 said: Just not a fan of LED Wrong color for me...... They vary. What's your preference? More of a yellow? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #55 Posted January 19 2 hours ago, johnnymag3 said: Just not a fan of LED Wrong color for me...... Like Eric said, you can get your preference. Check post #43. Just get the heat range (kelvin) you prefer. I definitely like white. I've got a big box of 2700-3000 Kelvin I'd give to somebody who likes the color. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,062 #56 Posted January 19 4 hours ago, johnnymag3 said: Wrong color for me...... Unfortunately the heat range is in no way "standard". Lower numbers are considered warmer, true white being around 4500k, and then higher being considered cooler. It's a silly description, but I guess it works. You can get LEDs that look exactly like "old yeller" incandescent bulbs at about 2500-3000k rating. The advantage is they have low power requirements, and last literally thousands of hours. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #57 Posted January 19 23 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Unfortunately the heat range is in no way "standard". Lower numbers are considered warmer, true white being around 4500k, and then higher being considered cooler. It's a silly description, but I guess it works. You can get LEDs that look exactly like "old yeller" incandescent bulbs at about 2500-3000k rating. The advantage is they have low power requirements, and last literally thousands of hours. If you ever want a headache look up how they explain that Kelvin temperature scale is derived from the color of a piece of Iron (black body radiator) heated up to a temperature equivalent to Kelvin scale and observing the color it emits. Its crap... Rule of thumb 2500-3700 orange to yellow 3800-4300 warm white 4400-5800- pure white 5900-6500 white with a hint of blue on the high side. 6600-10,000 gradually bluer until pure blue. I like a 4300-5000 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,508 #58 Posted January 19 5 hours ago, RED-Z06 said: If you ever want a headache look up how they explain that Kelvin temperature scale is derived from the color of a piece of Iron (black body radiator) heated up to a temperature equivalent to Kelvin scale and observing the color it emits. Its crap... Rule of thumb 2500-3700 orange to yellow 3800-4300 warm white 4400-5800- pure white 5900-6500 white with a hint of blue on the high side. 6600-10,000 gradually bluer until pure blue. I like a 4300-5000 The video of mine is a bit misleading. They appear whiter than reality. Likely due to phone camera. IIRC my fronts are 6K. Rears slightly lower. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 661 #59 Posted January 19 I converted my house to all LED about 7 years ago (give or take) after the price of bulbs became reasonable.I'm always looking for ways to save a buck , was well worth it cut about 20-30% off my electric bill - esp after I did the 4ft ballast in the garage and shed.The CFL lights I was glad to see go- the warm up time on those annoyed me. There is somewhat of a learning curve with LED, getting the right spectrum - brighter whiter for laundry room over the sink or work lights in the garage vs the warm yellower light like incandescent for living areas. Really can be frustrating after 100 years of just grabbing a box of the watts you need - the nice thing with LED in ceiling fixtures they burn way cooler , no more 200 degree bulb next to your rafters . https://www.e-education.psu.edu/egee102/node/2035 Quote The filament's temperature is very high, generally over 2,000º C, or 3,600º F. In a "standard" 60-, 75-, or 100-Watt bulb, the filament temperature is roughly 2,550º C, or roughly 4,600º F. At high temperatures like this, the thermal radiation from the filament includes a significant amount of visible light. This principle of obtaining light from heat is called ‘incandescence.” At this high temperature of 2,000º C, about 5 percent of the electrical energy converts into visible light and the rest of it is emitted as heat or infrared radiation. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #60 Posted January 19 The two ceiling bulbs are 5000k, the hanging light is 6500k. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 661 #61 Posted January 19 (edited) For years I had the 4ft fluorescent ballast and was using the brighter equivalent labeled "active spaces" - they were great for good light but had drawbacks- they were expensive and always burning out . Looked up my order, it was 5 years ago went with LED 5000k daylight haven't replaced a light/bulb and they use a lot less electric - win win Edited January 19 by Lagersolut 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,081 #62 Posted January 19 47 minutes ago, Lagersolut said: For years I had the 4ft fluorescent ballast and was using the brighter equivalent labeled "active spaces" - they were great for good light but had drawbacks- they were expensive and always burning out . Looked up my order, it was 5 years ago went with LED 5000k daylight haven't replaced a light/bulb and they use a lot less electric - That's not using a fluorescent ballast. Those usually don't work well and are short lived. That was installed about two months ago. I've got the same over my garage workbench as well as over three workbenches in the workshop. Same watts/lumens ratio. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RKCrizzle 16 #63 Posted January 20 On 1/14/2024 at 4:05 PM, Handy Don said: Exactly yes! So this is a 1995 tractor. 12hp Magnum Owners manual: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2652-tractor-1995-312-8-da-om-wiring-snpdf/ this link isn't working, would you be able to re post it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #64 Posted January 20 Oops. Fixed. Find all the files in the archive by using the search bar. Search text: “tractor 1995 312-8" Options: “use all my search terms" Search in: “Files" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJC1965 160 #65 Posted January 23 To update my 520H with the 2 stage snowblower. I was having the issue of it just shutting down and then after a bit it would run for awhile then shut off again this winter it got worse. Checked a few things out and replaced the ignition coil and ring under the fly wheel also new spark plug wires and a new fuel pump and lines as well. it’s doing great now about 1hr of blowing and never shut off well except when it ran out of gas. New lights work great and really like the new glass windshield and electric wiper. I shot a video that shows the different modes the light will do. They seem to work really good and light up the area as they should. It has one light bar in the front and 2 small light pods in the rear they all run off the same switch and have the six modes from bright white, flood mode , and strobe lights. IMG_4858.mov 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
