2024 Project

[TonyToro Jr. 1,425]

16 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Rules state rebuild up to .030 over bore. Up to .030 pop up on the piston allowed.

Speaking of that boring and engine work and performance stuff.  there’s a lot of stuff you can do on the outside before getting into the engine doing cams,piston,crank that’s the expensive stuff. I would go onto Vogel Manufacturing and they have very good stock appearing carbs that make a huge difference, The other sites I use to get parts is Midwest Super Cub, Hackman Performance Parts and Zack Kerber. They all have very useful parts. I would also recommend making a front weight bar that goes into the attach o matics. They make a huge difference with getting your front end down and easier for another spot to add weight.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

Speaking of that boring and engine work and performance stuff.  there’s a lot of stuff you can do on the outside before getting into the engine doing cams,piston,crank that’s the expensive stuff. I would go onto Vogel Manufacturing and they have very good stock appearing carbs that make a huge difference, The other sites I use to get parts is Midwest Super Cub, Hackman Performance Parts and Zack Kerber. They all have very useful parts. I would also recommend making a front weight bar that goes into the attach o matics. They make a huge difference with getting your front end down and easier for another spot to add weight.

 

I don't want to hijack this thread much but I'm wondering if you have a thread of your own where you've documented what you're running for an engine combo and its  modifications?

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,425]

58 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I don't want to hijack this thread much but I'm wondering if you have a thread of your own where you've documented what you're running for an engine combo and its  modifications?

 

I haven’t yet but, I’m in the process of building a new engine and the parts should be here soon so I could so one if you guys would want.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

8 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

I haven’t yet but, I’m in the process of building a new engine and the parts should be here soon so I could so one if you guys would want.

I for one would appreciate it.  

 

It's interesting to see how a high torque engine is built.  

 

 

[953 nut 55,230]

On 1/2/2024 at 4:56 PM, TonyToro Jr. said:

I’m in the process of building a new engine and the parts should be here soon so I could so one if you guys would want

            The more good threads we have the better this site becomes. Pleas take lots of photos and list sources of parts and materials.        

[Pullstart 62,883]

On 1/2/2024 at 2:15 PM, TonyToro Jr. said:

Speaking of that boring and engine work and performance stuff.  there’s a lot of stuff you can do on the outside before getting into the engine doing cams,piston,crank that’s the expensive stuff. I would go onto Vogel Manufacturing and they have very good stock appearing carbs that make a huge difference, The other sites I use to get parts is Midwest Super Cub, Hackman Performance Parts and Zack Kerber. They all have very useful parts. I would also recommend making a front weight bar that goes into the attach o matics. They make a huge difference with getting your front end down and easier for another spot to add weight.

BORING!    I read that first line as being bored, not getting an engine bored 

 

Great input, Mr. Jr!

[8ntruck 7,004]

My 2 cents worth on the paint discussion on page one - leave it like it is and claim that you got it from E.J. Potter.

[Easton Rich 267]

I’ll be along for the ride  I love to read about the process 

[Achto 27,577]

With sub zero temps last weekend I did not bother heating up the garage to do any work. Had other engagement's yesterday but today I was hard at it again. First on the agenda was to raise the fender up to gain some more clearance for the tires.

 

The hinge/riser was busted loose from from the fenders, so I only had to break the spot welds loose on one side.

 

Once broken loose I replaced the broken cross piece, cut the 90 degree bend off from it and added a new piece to raise the fenders up 1/2".

 

Drilled holes in the added on pieces so that I could blind weld the the hinge back on to the fender.

 

This gave me good clearance between the tires & fender.

 

With this done it was time to break down the tractor to fit the next piece.

 

The next piece is a reinforcement that I made for the F-plate. The F-plate on this tractor is not cracked & I hope to keep it that way despite the abuse that I plan on putting it through. The side plates of this reinforcement are made out of 7ga metal. The plate that bolts against the F-plate is 1/4" plate.

 

Reinforcement bolted in place.

 

With these alterations done I fit things back together so that I can move on to the next fitments. My new front tires came in so I was able to mount them on the rims and set the tractor down on all 4's. So far I like the stance that I have with a lower front axle and the 6" wheels.

 

Now that I have it on the ground I can start measuring things up for the adjustable hitch and wheelie bars.  

 

 

Edited January 22 by Achto

[kpinnc 12,061]

21 minutes ago, Achto said:

This gave me good clearance between the tires & fender.

 

I don't usually follow much in the pulling section. I don't dislike it, just rather never had much personal interest.

 

That being said- you've got some really great mods here. Very impressive metal fabrication! This machine not only looks great, it's got some major improvements! 

[WHX?? 48,815]

Yah nice fab on the braces. 

[JPWH 6,033]

6 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Yah nice fab on the braces. 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

Just. WOW. 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,560]

[WHX?? 48,815]

So Dan comes over Saturday to try and press a steering wheel off the shaft. The Dash that was on it had a broken dash plate mount and did mot have the tabs on the bottom.

Ended up pressing the metal hub right out of the wheel. Oh oh right? So he stumbles out to the parts shed and comes back with the whole correct assembly with a nice wheel. 

Beginning to really like this build ...the parts shed is getting cleaned out... 

We also found some nice wheels for the wheelie bar. Plan was to use brake drums but bearing loaded wheels off a HF tool chest are perfect. .

[Ed Kennell 38,177]

That seat and frame bracing is a work of art Dan.      Should be some way for the rest of the world to see it...not just us couple privileged s.       U Tube ?

[ebinmaine 67,502]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

That seat and frame bracing is a work of art Dan.      Should be some way for the rest of the world to see it...not just us couple privileged s.       U Tube ?

 

I'll second that

[Easton Rich 267]

I’ll even third that

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I'll second that

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

17 hours ago, Achto said:

 

 

Methinks the “weak point” is now the four bolts holding the transaxle to the frame!

Maybe add a brace from the rear hitch cross-pin forward to your frame reinforcement? 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Methinks the “weak point” is now the four bolts holding the transaxle to the frame!

Maybe add a brace from the rear hitch cross-pin forward to your frame reinforcement? 

 

Can't say I'd disagree.  

 

Not sure if it's a need or even allowed in pulling.  

 

On my Big Wheel build I'll be adding a secondary frame that wraps the axle tubes. 

 

 

[Easton Rich 267]

Bolt a bracket from your hitch to the underside of your frame and make like a basket?

[Ed Kennell 38,177]

13 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Maybe add a brace from the rear hitch cross-pin forward to your frame reinforcement?

Or extend the wheely bar frames forward and attach to the frame torsion bar fashion.

I assume this is all clamped to the axle tubes.

 

 

[Easton Rich 267]

1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said:

Or extend the wheely bar frames forward and attach to the frame torsion bar fashion.

I assume this is all clamped to the axle tubes.

 

 

[Achto 27,577]

54 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Methinks the “weak point” is now the four bolts holding the transaxle to the frame!

Maybe add a brace from the rear hitch cross-pin forward to your frame reinforcement?

 

Oddly enough, I have never seen a failure that involved the transmission mounting bolts. I have seen several failures in the F-plate. At a plowing event one individuals F-plate cracked to the point of his tractor almost breaking in half. All of the pull on this tractor will be primarily on the transmission its self. Having the front end in the air with occasional slamming back down to the ground could be a recipe to damage the F-plate.  At least this is my thoughts. 

 

Running a snow plow is definitely hard on the F-plate. With the plow frame pushing on the transmission, any time that the plow happens to stop the tractor the rest of the weight of the tractor is thrown forward putting enormous stress on the F-plate.

[wallfish 17,000]

19 hours ago, Achto said:

The side plates of this reinforcement are made out of 7ga metal.

That's some thick stuff. like 3/16. You can make those bends in that Dan?