1993 314H Refresh for another 30 years

[Cee245 818]

Figured I might as well start a new thread in the right area since this is quickly becoming a bigger project than first planned! 

 

Basic plan is to do a detailed "going over" for functionality and prev maint.   I'll loosely follow a checklist (one i made years ago like @ebinmaine made(his is MUCH better tho) and likely be looking for advice in certain areas. 

 

This won't be a remove all bolts and paint every single thing, just a 5-6 month project with my sons and to get as much done as time / budget allow before grass starts growing back up here.   I have 2 other WH's if this takes longer than planned. 

 

I'd like to keep it below 250.  Should be doable as I have a decent amount of extra spare parts and can always improve things later.

 

Thankfully the tractor is in pretty good shape to start with and a parts 520 i got years ago for the steering must've actually had 400 some hours as its already nice and tight on my first test install. 😀 

 

Some things i gotta decide on are if i can just use maybe 600 grit and wet sand and clear coat after? I think @Pullstart mentioned it before? 

 

Which of the 3 steering wheels? (See pic)

 

1 (original)  ,2,  (85/86) or 3 (70's)?

I'm likely going with 2 or maybe 3.  I'll have my boys argue over it when it comes time. Lol

 

Already have a finished rear seat pan done in sun rise red, so there’s a possibility,  but since this'll be a mower mainly and likely plow in winter, it doesn't need to be perfect. 

 

And I'll try to include lots of pictures, of course! 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 1 by Cee245
Wrong pic

[Pullstart 62,837]

4 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

just a 5-6 month project with my sons

 awesome!  Depending on the paint condition and your taste, a soapy water wet sand and clear of your choice is a great idea!  

[SylvanLakeWH 25,535]

[Cee245 818]

 

I'd like to do the painting of the tins towards to end, but looking at pic, of hood, would that be reasonable? Looks like hood is flaking clear? 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,432]

36 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

do a detailed "going over" for functionality and prev maint.   I'll loosely follow a checklist (one i made years ago like @ebinmaine made(his is MUCH better tho)

 

Cool. I'll be following along.  

I appreciate the mention but I had a LOT of help from a bunch of folks here!!   Trina did some list organizing too.  

 

 

I'd vote for the 70s steering wheel. 

 

18 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

 

I'd like to do the painting of the tins towards to end, but looking at pic, of hood, would that be reasonable? Looks like hood is flaking clear? 

 

I can't answer about the flaking clear but as far as timing. 

If you're gonna use a spray can with no hardener like we do here you'll want to paint as much as possible absolutely ASAP.  

The non hardened paint takes several months to completely cure.  

It's a fair amount more durable and easier to handle after 2 or 3 months.  

 

 

[Pullstart 62,837]

Yep, a wet sand and buff or clear would make that pop!

[Cee245 818]

My issue with painting is its dependent on weather.  I have a shed that I heat with an electric wall heater and propane top burner. Not ideal for painting.  But, wet sand and buff? No clear coat? @Pullstart?

 

For now, I am sending my Walbro carb away to a member to rebuild for me. I'm sending some extra goodies i found that they should be happy with, I hope. 

 

I found some see thru red fuel line that im going to use, for something different.  And I have to get a marine primer bulb due to the many suggestions.  

 

 

 

Another thing id like to change would be to find parts for a conversion from 93 style motion control /deck lift to the mid 80's option with the motion controls between the legs and deck lift on lower left of dash. 

[ebinmaine 67,432]

14 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

see thru red fuel line

Now that's neat! 

 

 

14 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

I am sending my Walbro carb away to a member to rebuild for me. I'm sending some extra goodies i found that they should be happy with, I hope. 

I bet they'll be just fine but if not you tell'em to go pound sand.  

[Pullstart 62,837]

17 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

But, wet sand and buff? No clear coat? @Pullstart?

 

It’ll bring out an amazing luster that way too.  Finish with some wax and you’ll be golden!

[kpinnc 12,007]

9 hours ago, Cee245 said:

I'd like to do the painting of the tins towards to end, but looking at pic, of hood, would that be reasonable? Looks like hood is flaking clear? 

 

 

 

 

I don't think these machines ever used clear coating. I'd be willing to bet that some 2000 grit wet sanding and polishing afterward would go a long way to bringing that hood back. 

 

Mine started out looking pretty bad, and I was shocked how well a harbor fright cheapo buffer and compound worked after wet sanding. 

 

Worth a try at least. My tractor is a worker, and I was shocked at how nice it looked afterwards.

 

 

Edited January 2 by kpinnc

[oliver2-44 9,739]

If you decide to get a different hydraulic deck lift valve to move it to the lower left side of dash. Depending what all you use your tractor for a hydraulic valve that has a “float” could be useful for some attachments such as grading dirt. Some GT14 valves have “float”. 

[ebinmaine 67,432]

6 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

If you decide to get a different hydraulic deck lift valve to move it to the lower left side of dash. Depending what all you use your tractor for a hydraulic valve that has a “float” could be useful for some attachments such as grading dirt. Some GT14 valves have “float”. 

 

That would be an excellent addition. Maybe some aftermarket valves as well but of course space would be a concern?

[953 nut 55,192]

9 hours ago, kpinnc said:

I don't think these machines ever used clear coating. I'd be willing to bet that some 2000 grit wet sanding and polishing afterward would go a long way to bringing that hood back

         Wet-sand with 2000 and if you see red in the water you know there was no clear-coat.  Being a worker you don't want it too shiny, that way you won't hate yourself when the inevitable scratch occurs.         I wouldn't consider clear-coat over old enamel paint, any impurities or oils that have worked their way into the paint could cause a  lack of adhesion and poor results.

[ebinmaine 67,432]

19 hours ago, Cee245 said:

 

 Looks like hood is flaking clear? 

 

I was hoping the others would chime in as they have because I wasn't sure about the presence of clear coat. 

 

Those spots. White Ish?

 

I remember @Sparky and/ or some others talk about staining in the paint from maybe leaving tarps or something else on the hood for long periods of time?

[953 nut 55,192]

22 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

staining in the paint from maybe leaving tarps or something else on the hood for long periods

I had that on the 418-C which had been covered with a tarp. I suspect that the acid from decomposition of organic matter between the paint and the tarp worked its way into the paint. By the time I had sanded through the white cloudy staining I was into the primer. Just went ahead and took it down to bare metal, primed and painted.

[JoeM 7,873]

Tape the decals before sanding.

We use 1000 1500 then 2000 with a little dawn/water.

Wipe down with a micro fiber and shine a light on a angle to make sure the surface is evenly sanded.

Since this is powder coat a couple things come to mind. Buffing with medium cut then polish cut is one, the other is coating with clear enamel. Rustoleum makes a good rattle can one that is buff able. 

A really good paint prep is 50/50 water and alcohol. Drys right up and is way better than thinner or spirits that soften the substrate. 

[Cee245 818]

Got a little time today and cleaned every electrical connection I could see and applied dielectric grease to them. 

 

I see WH parts and more has a 9 pin connection kit.  I'm thinking its more for the onan 9 pin and not the safety lights? 

 

Anyone know if this work on the safety light 9 pin connector? 

 

Believe it or not, all the safety switches and dash lights worked before finding the connector in such rough shape...

 

Edited January 8 by Cee245
Add pic

[953 nut 55,192]

1 hour ago, Cee245 said:

I'm thinking its more for the onan 9 pin and not the safety lights

Yes, the 9 pin connector is an Onan engine connector only.

[Handy Don 12,214]

On 1/7/2024 at 7:34 PM, Cee245 said:

Got a little time today and cleaned every electrical connection I could see and applied dielectric grease to them. 

I see WH parts and more has a 9 pin connection kit.  I'm thinking its more for the onan 9 pin and not the safety lights? 

The 9-pin connector was, I firmly believe, put there to reduce labor during final tractor assembly. It allowed one simple connection from the main wiring harness to the engine for all of the (relatively) low amperage electrical circuits. In retrospect, its vulnerability to environmental conditions and subsequent corrosion have caused many of us to question that decision!

[Bill D 1,920]

I believe others on here have replaced that connector with more robust connectors. I'd do that before bothering with that connector again.

[Cee245 818]

I ended up replacing all with butt connections.  It's nice that most lights on panel work (oil bulb broke off) now.  I'm not concerned about the indicators not working, but i do like having the safety switches in place when inexperienced riders may use it. 

 

 

 

Got the red fuel line / new grommet/petcock for fuel tank put on. 

 

I like how the red color makes the fuel flow better and its more durable.  Added benefit. 😄

 

Also got the head pulled / decarbed and will adjist valves later this week.  Definitely wasnt done before as it was rather dirty/ caked on.

Still gotta get some decarbon gel / nylon brushes to finish that task.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Cee245 818]

So.... I was wet sanding with 1000 grit and ive got a few scratches which were a little rusty on the hood and its down to metal in some little areas... 

I guess because I exposed some little bare metal spots, ill paint the whole thing etc..  

 

Can't see it in the pics, but it looks like a blend of dark to lighter red when i buffed , so im guessing it has already had a crappy paint job. So why not one more? Lol 😆 

Edited January 23 by Cee245

[ebinmaine 67,432]

Should you consider taking it down further to se if there's a better paint surface below the two colors you're seeing? 

[Cee245 818]

Well, im not sure what to do... i mean, im down to metal in some small areas, so id see that through clear etc. But im not sure if we even care... its going to be a worker/ mower. 

 

The rear fender is similar to the hood.  Im sure ill uncover some little scratches and itll be down to metal with sanding...

 

I do have a nice fender pan thats painted in sunrise red, but needs a couple more coats of paint. (Old project that i went another way)

 

 

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,221]

I replaced my old cracked rubber fuel line with that pvc clear-ish line, it lasted about a year and started to come apart near the engine, i went to cut the end off to get fresh and just handling it made it bust.  Ran new rubber line, maybe it was just bad hose...not sure.