heysavoy 17 #1 Posted December 30, 2023 Happy New Year. I have a 1990 wheel horse classic model # 31-12KE01. The part I have shown has started squeaking recently when I engage my leaf attachment. Is there a grease fitting for this? This forum has been so very helpful and as a novice wheelhouse owner I appreciate so much the assistance you have given me so many times. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,556 #2 Posted December 30, 2023 If you are talking about the needle bearing inside the PTO bell - there is no fitting. You need to disassemble it to get to the inside for cleaning & greasing. @peter lena - this is one of his favorites for proper maintainence. He will probably chime in... It is super important to keep the PTO operating properly to prevent costly damage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,546 #3 Posted December 30, 2023 It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,638 #4 Posted December 30, 2023 Outer bearing fails a lot Napa # PP204RR6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,871 #5 Posted December 30, 2023 @heysavoy there is a needle bearing INSIDE THE DRIVE CONE , THE OUTER Bearing on THE CONE END IS SEALED , , but can also be replaced . that needle bearing needs to be wiped out and very lightly re greased , with a hi temp grease , like a 550 temp chassis grease , over greasing causes grease sling to clutch face, avoid that . BTW that cone comes right off , with end safety clip , swing arm out of way, also remove the upper left corner brake pad bracket . after you do that , repack / service , or before , how easily , or not does the drive belt , upper side move the deck ? the collection of resistance , from spindles , is the killer , lets just get this taken care of , thank you to @ri702bill and @Sparky for their input . Pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 17 #6 Posted December 30, 2023 3 hours ago, peter lena said: @heysavoy there is a needle bearing INSIDE THE DRIVE CONE , THE OUTER Bearing on THE CONE END IS SEALED , , but can also be replaced . that needle bearing needs to be wiped out and very lightly re greased , with a hi temp grease , like a 550 temp chassis grease , over greasing causes grease sling to clutch face, avoid that . BTW that cone comes right off , with end safety clip , swing arm out of way, also remove the upper left corner brake pad bracket . after you do that , repack / service , or before , how easily , or not does the drive belt , upper side move the deck ? the collection of resistance , from spindles , is the killer , lets just get this taken care of , thank you to @ri702bill and @Sparky for their input . Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 17 #7 Posted December 30, 2023 It moves fairly easy when I pull the belt by hand. A little resistance but not a lot. When I swing the arm out of the way does the entire cone come off and then is that where I lightly grease? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,556 #8 Posted December 31, 2023 4 hours ago, Sparky said: It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal Good advise there. Check the friction disc when you have it apart. IF it is the riveted kind, and IF the rivets are touching the cone, it it time to reline or replace it.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,871 #9 Posted December 31, 2023 @heysavoy , little resistance is much better than a lot , yes the arm swing bracket holds it in place , looking at the needle bearing , wipe it out , clean cloth , maybe a carb cleaner spray on cloth to help remove oil grease . then a light repack on that needle bearing. remember excess can sling up to clutch face , avoid that , clean back of disc , you want a hi temp grease , like lucas , chassis grease , that will stand up to hi temp stress loading . check this out for , direction , pete 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #10 Posted December 31, 2023 32 minutes ago, peter lena said: check this out for , direction , pete That was one ugly bearing, Pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 17 #11 Posted December 31, 2023 5 hours ago, Sparky said: It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal When I turn it by hand it only speaks in certain areas but not throughout the entire turn. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,638 #12 Posted December 31, 2023 Your welcome. Glad I could make a "small contribution" to the solution. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,871 #13 Posted December 31, 2023 @Jon Paulsen another thing you want to look at while its running is the belt tensioner movement cycling , is it a buzz of motion? quiet ? squealing ? when its really bouncing , chances are its a spindle bearing related drag point , just a fractional , hang up , that collectively eats bearings / related movement areas . have someone else in the seat , so you can look it over / with caution , while its running . just the way I look at things . only a suggestion , also lets you see , rusty movement areas , that can be improved , added washers, lubrication , to firm up function , go greasy , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,556 #14 Posted December 31, 2023 Decent instructional video there @peter lena. Only thing he should have done is PRESS the outer beading OD into the pulley casting instead of taking the chance to damage it by thumping it into place. He DOES have a press - saw him use it earlier. Too much chance to start it in mis-aligned by hand... "Do it right once, or be ready to do it over later"....... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 17 #15 Posted December 31, 2023 21 hours ago, ri702bill said: If you are talking about the needle bearing inside the PTO bell - there is no fitting. You need to disassemble it to get to the inside for cleaning & greasing. @peter lena - this is one of his favorites for proper maintainence. He will probably chime in... It is super important to keep the PTO operating properly to prevent costly damage. So when I take off the PTO bell will I be able to get inside to add some grease without disassembling the entire "bell"? Peter Lena shared a "how to" video above but I'm not sure I have the tools or the expertise to do all what it entails. Thanks man!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,634 #16 Posted December 31, 2023 6 minutes ago, heysavoy said: So when I take off the PTO bell will I be able to get inside to add some grease without disassembling the entire "bell"? Peter Lena shared a "how to" video above but I'm not sure I have the tools or the expertise to do all what it entails. Thanks man!! Yes, gently clean and then rub a small amount of grease into the needle bearings that removing the bell exposes. More is NOT better in this situation because excess grease can find its way onto the PTO clutch friction plate--not a good outcome! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #17 Posted December 31, 2023 then, if you have a socket set (socket wrenches), locate one that is smaller then the hole the bearing rides in, but large enough to cover most of the bearing's outer race. In other words, a socket that is barely small enough to fit the hole for the ball bearing. Use that socket and a small hammer to tap the old bearing out, then the new bearing in. The idea is to exert force on the outer race of the bearing. Tapping a ball bearing in and out by the inner race would be very hard on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,556 #18 Posted December 31, 2023 52 minutes ago, Jon Paulsen said: then, if you have a socket set (socket wrenches), locate one that is smaller then the hole the bearing rides in, but large enough to cover most of the bearing's outer race. In other words, a socket that is barely small enough to fit the hole for the ball bearing. Use that socket and a small hammer to tap the old bearing out, then the new bearing in. The idea is to exert force on the outer race of the bearing. Tapping a ball bearing in and out by the inner race would be very hard on it. Trying to drive the OD of a ball bearing by exerting force on the inner race, either in a press of by using impact from a hammer will most likely damage / destroy the bearing.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #19 Posted December 31, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: Trying to drive the OD of a ball bearing by exerting force on the inner race, either in a press of by using impact from a hammer will most likely damage / destroy the bearing.... Yes sir, must apply force, beatings, etc. to the outer race only. Beating the inner race will gut it. Edit: Around time 3:30 on the video Peter posted, it shows using a socket and brass hammer to tap the bearing into place. This puts the force on the outer race. Personally, I would skip the Loctite (glue) for the sake of future disassembly. Edited December 31, 2023 by Jon Paulsen 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites