HorseFixer 2,013 #1 Posted December 15, 2023 (edited) How big a Job is it to change the Gear Lube in the (2)Snow Blower Gearcase's with EP-90. Any Tips or tricks would be helpful. Thanks ~Duke Also do you know anyone that has part # 808600 Gear-Worm and part # 25-5290 Chute Swivel For the chute Rotation? Thanks ~Duke Edited December 15, 2023 by HorseFixer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #2 Posted December 15, 2023 The peerless gearbox with the pulley and sprocket is filled with grease, not oil. You'll need to remove the big plate with 4 screws off the side of it to open it up. I also fill my worm gear box with grease. Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease for the last 4-5 years. But, I bought some JD Cornhead grease to use in gearboxes, just haven't used it yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,013 #3 Posted December 15, 2023 3 hours ago, wallfish said: The peerless gearbox with the pulley and sprocket is filled with grease, not oil. You'll need to remove the big plate with 4 screws off the side of it to open it up. I also fill my worm gear box with grease. Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease for the last 4-5 years. But, I bought some JD Cornhead grease to use in gearboxes, just haven't used it yet. Huh..... Well on my manual is states in the parts Diagram to use EP90 wt oil for both Gearboxes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #4 Posted December 15, 2023 Well, it must be then if it's written in the manual which also states "no service interval". So there's no need to open it up anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,013 #5 Posted December 16, 2023 Well on the Pully or Rear case it says no service but after 30+ years I would say it needs checking but there is no drain or fill plug in it so that makes the job more difficult for sure. The front case I made a Vaccume device to remove the 90 wt then refilled it with AMSOIL 75/90 Severe Gear Lube.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,013 #6 Posted December 16, 2023 Looky what I found in the GARAGE I got stuff i forgot I have! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,184 #7 Posted December 17, 2023 On 12/15/2023 at 5:39 PM, wallfish said: Well, it must be then if it's written in the manual which also states "no service interval". So there's no need to open it up anyway. Ain't that an odd way to put it.... Here use this.... But don't ever do it anyway. @HorseFixer if you tear into this I'd be interested to see pics. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,184 #8 Posted December 17, 2023 @wallfish I showed that diagram to Trina who's usually brighter than I. She pointed out that the text points two different places. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,441 #9 Posted December 17, 2023 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: @wallfish I showed that diagram to Trina who's usually brighter than I. She pointed out that the text points two different places. Two very different gearboxes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,930 #10 Posted December 17, 2023 @HorseFixer , noting your breakdown , service issue , more often than not , have found RELATED MOVEMENT AREAS , TO BE THE ADDED FAULT . pulley bearing failure , was a very common area , also any INTENDED MOVEMENT , lever , linkage point . also found that firming up / washers , red grease , helps out . went from the initial lever start point , and improved as I went , COLLECTIVE DRAG , is a common failure hiding in plane site , ever wonder why so many are replacing , CHUTCH DISCS ? often say that drive belt to mule drive is your heads up , for ease of function , just my own experience . Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #11 Posted December 17, 2023 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: @HorseFixer if you tear into this I'd be interested to see pics. I have another one of those off the blower as I always pick them up for other projects. I can probably open it up for ya. I've re-greased 2-3 of them. BUT, never removed the one from my 2 stage blower so it's possible they could've put different oil or grease in different applications. The part numbers on the boxes are the same. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #12 Posted December 17, 2023 (edited) It was much easier to find than I thought. Another one filled with grease and not oil which is why they have them as "no service interval" Not so much "filled" with grease but I put more in them than that. The biggest pain is getting all that old grease out because it's messy Edited December 17, 2023 by wallfish 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,184 #13 Posted December 17, 2023 15 minutes ago, wallfish said: It was much easier to find than I thought. Another one filled with grease and not oil which is why they have them as "no service interval" So the reason I ask is because we're getting a Two Stage Snowblower set up for our friends. I'll be replacing the chain and need to either buy (factory). or make an idler from a 10 tooth sprocket. I figured it would be obvious we'd have to change the gearbox oil. Maybe one but not the other ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #14 Posted December 17, 2023 10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I figured it would be obvious we'd have to change the gearbox oil. Open it up, remove the old grease and re-grease it. You can see how well lubed the gears are. Depending on how deep you want or need to go, the shafts and gears can be removed but I don't think it's always necessary. The hard crude grease tends to stick to the sides. You will know if it needs to be completely disassembled depending upon what you find when getting that old stuff out. If completely disassembled you might as well do new seals on it too because once you slide shafts in and out of those old seals they could get damaged only to find out after it's completely assembled. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,013 #15 Posted December 19, 2023 On 12/17/2023 at 11:28 AM, wallfish said: Open it up, remove the old grease and re-grease it. You can see how well lubed the gears are. Depending on how deep you want or need to go, the shafts and gears can be removed but I don't think it's always necessary. The hard crude grease tends to stick to the sides. You will know if it needs to be completely disassembled depending upon what you find when getting that old stuff out. If completely disassembled you might as well do new seals on it too because once you slide shafts in and out of those old seals they could get damaged only to find out after it's completely assembled. Well I Used a Squirt Can and Filled It With 75/90 Wt AMSOIL Severe Gear Oil a Couple Days Ago I Decided To Replace The Old Cutting Bar with one I Fobbed In Front Of The Snow Chucker and when unbolting The Cutter there on the floor I Seen a Pool of Oil. After Wiping The Gearbox Clen W Laquear Thinner I seen that the Seals Are Leaking By the Augers. I Have another Tall Shoot Chucker But It Needs A Paint Job Probably wouldn't hurt to rebuild it during the Summer. Which brings me to this question, since the front gearbox seals are leaking John do you think I could take the Fill plug out and put a Zerk fitting in and fill it full of grease? I figure if it lasted the winter I would be good till I rebuild the Other Chucker cause the Auger and other parts are in better shape. What ya Think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,140 #16 Posted December 19, 2023 31 minutes ago, HorseFixer said: Which brings me to this question, since the front gearbox seals are leaking John do you think I could take the Fill plug out and put a Zerk fitting in and fill Yes. That's why I started filling it with grease. The squeeze tube of Lubriplate 105 grease simply fits right into the plug hole on the front. Squeeze until full and replace the plug. That grease will turn thick oil then re solidify some after working it. It must still leak out a little because I squeeze a little bit more in each year. But it's certainly not noticeable with any puddles or even creep onto the outside of the gearbox. I figure if it's good enough for lubing an expensive newly rebuilt engine, it should be good enough for lubing a simple worm gear. So far so good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites