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fourwheelhorseman

One more slight issue for the experts….

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fourwheelhorseman

I’m coming to a close on this project C160 Wheelhorse. The final issue that I have is the belt seems to be loose when I put it in neutral and makes noise. When I’m in gear it also makes the same kind of noise, I took the belt guard off and the noise when away… I replaced the idler pulley and clutch spring and the noise still persists. I’m thinking the belt simply might need replaced, but it looks new. Any ideas? I can try and take a video of it running in neutral if that would help? 

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ebinmaine

Is the belt from the Auto or manual tractor? 

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fourwheelhorseman

It’s the belt that came with the manual tractor. It looked good so I left it on.

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Jon Paulsen

The belt guard acts as a brake for the belt when in neutral. Some noise might be normal. Maybe make and post that video. 

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fourwheelhorseman
2 hours ago, Jon Paulsen said:

The belt guard acts as a brake for the belt when in neutral. Some noise might be normal. Maybe make and post that video. 

I will do that when I get home, 

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8ntruck

My 14-8 has a scrapey noise when in neutral, and probably when I am running in gear as well.  I've repeatedly found the input pulley loose on the trans input shaft and drifted over so it is lightly rubbing the belt guard.

 

Next time I'm in there, I need to check to see if there is a double set screw in the pulley.  If not, I'll add one.  If so, I'll think about drilling and tapping the pulley for a second set screw 90 degrees from the first.

Edited by 8ntruck
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ri702bill
10 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

My 14-8 has a scrapey noise when in neutral, and probably when I am running in gear as well.  I've repeatedly found the input pulley loose on the trans input shaft and drifted over so it is lightly rubbing the belt guard.

 

Next time I'm in there, I need to check to see if there is a double set screw in the pulley.  If not, I'll add one.  If so, I'll think about drilling and tapping the pulled for a second set screw 90 degrees from the first.

Use a soft tipped setscrew for the second one so as not to raise a burr on the shaft - or - install it without the second setscrew, use the tap drill thru the new tapped hole to dimple the shaft to a full drillpoint diameter. Either way, no raised burr to fight later to remove the pulley....

Bill

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gwest_ca

If you add a set screw on top of another

Make sure to grind the second set screw flat - grind off the cup point.

What happens is the second screw cup point will enter the hex hole in the first set screw and flair the top of the first screw which will never be removed again.

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ebinmaine

Sounds "slappy".  

 

What's the clutch spring you used?

 

Does the idler pulley have the correct bolt?

 

Does the idler pulley come up and hit the top of the belt guard?

 

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fourwheelhorseman
8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Sounds "slappy".  

 

What's the clutch spring you used?

 

Does the idler pulley have the correct bolt?

 

Does the idler pulley come up and hit the top of the belt guard?

 

I used the OEM spring and pulley  from my local Wheelhorse dealer (Toro) they still stock parts for the old tractors. The bolt is simply the same one I pulled out of it, although it looks a little long. I’m not sure of the idler pulley hitting the belt guard, I’ll have to look tomorrow.

i have the automatic parts tractor I may remove the belt gaurd on it and compare notes. 

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ebinmaine

The spring should be a 108035. 

 

The head of the bolt on the idler should appear to be about half the thickness of an average bolt.  

 

I'm also wondering if maybe the belt LOOKS good but is worn on the edges which would let it ride too deeply in the pulley grooves.  

That would make it function like it's too long.   

 

 

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fourwheelhorseman

I’ll look at it all tomorrow thanks!

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Lee1977

 

I had that on my Raider when I put it back together the transmission pulley was hitting the belt guard.  I added a 1/4" thick spacer behind the belt guard where it bolts to the frame tab behind the foot pad.

It was hitting at the bottom of the pulley at the end of the belt guard.

Edited by Lee1977

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fourwheelhorseman

Well this is what I’ve come up with, the belt seems to be hitting the gaurd, the pulley is clearing the gaurd. I do think it’s the belt that’s at fault , it seems to be a hair long.  There’s an illustration in the owners manual that has a measurement from the belt gaurd to the belt. That measurement is taken from the front near the pulley, I wonder if my gaurd got bent and I need to adjust it?

Edited by fourwheelhorseman
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peter lena

@fourwheelhorseman  sounds like a lot of related , movement areas , doing a vibration , dance , have found that , pulley bearings , fail / bind / stop /restart , starting a vibration dance , note any spring follow tension point  , mower decks , spring slide tension area . abuzz with motion , it telling you that , would first try some aerosol lubricant , small extension tube , to every bounce point / check effect , look see . done a number of those ,  collective drag , Pete

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Racinbob

@fourwheelhorseman 

Don't rewire the house before you verify it's not just a burnt out bulb. I had a very similar issue with my 2005 when I first got it with 100 hours. It had a delay in the clutch engagement which was due to a dampening strut. For testing purposes :rolleyes: I removed the strut. The delay was gone but it then sounded like your  C-160. The belt looked perfect and with only 100 hours I figured it was fine. Then it was suggested to me to replace the belt so I went ahead and put a new OEM on it. Problem 100% resolved and the replacement belt is still fine 15 years later. I'm thinking it's worth a shot. :)

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fourwheelhorseman

Thanks guys, I’ll most likely follow the suggestion of lubricating all moving parts before replacing the belt… however for the life of me I can’t see anything touching that belt gaurd except up towards the front pulley.. I did find a loose bolt that when tightened seemed to help the situation out some. The bolt was under the seat pan on the frame rail and holds the belt gaurd, it was pretty loose ( my fault). 

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Wheelhorse#1

I had the same type noise on a b80. Turned out the spring was stretched.

Good luck      

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