New to Wheel Horse

[BryanL 17]

Hi all, new member here.

 

I have just been given use of an old 246-H mower by the property owner to look after the lawn where my cabin is. They used to use it before they got a new ride on and said it was functional.

 

But she has some issues which I will describe here before going to electrical or where ever.

 

Owner said had charging problems. They had replaced the battery but nearly dead now (7V) - need to jump start it. So at least I can get it going. I should be able to fault find that issue maybe with a bit of help.

 

Next thing: he was showing me the controls and when he flipped the switch to engage the blades, nothing happened. OK so that will need to be sorted now too. Except, when I got it here I flipped the switch and the engine cut out. I assume that is part of the seat based safety mechanism - but I was seated. I am bothered the clutch may need renewing.

 

Yesterday when I was riding it here (about a mile) going up a rise the engine coughed, picked up again and then promptly cut out, I had a suspicion (why I don't know) that it might have been oil related. So this morning when I drove back down with jumper leads I took some oil. The oil was down about the add mark so I topped it up and got it going. It did cough once more right at the top of the rise but kept going and did the rest of the journey no worries. I am assuming a low oil sensor kicked in. Maybe I shouldn't assume...

 

Otherwise seems reasonable. Pretty dirty - no headlights, knobs missing... I just cleaned the air filter and have the battery on charge (but at 7V I think it is history).

 

I am half a backyard mechanic. I have basic tools including a multi meter and can generally get my head around 12V electrical systems.

 

I am hopeful I can get this old girl going as I see from these forums that they have respect and I like well built gear. I used to use a Walker zero turn at a previous place which I liked. Funnily enough the clutch on that one let go one day but the owner got the shop to replace it.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice,

 

Bryan

 

[CCW 1,295]

Welcome.  I'm not the trouble shooter guy you need, but this site has been helpful for my few needs.

[BryanL 17]

Well stranger things may have happened....

 

I put the battery on a charger for a while. Disconnected and it read 12.5V. I wasn't expecting anything but gave it a test and it fired up. Let it warm up a bit and backed it out.

I wanted to see what might happen engaging the mower and it stalled. So I started it again (wasn't expecting the battery to have enough), gave it some revs and the mower kicked in. So I went and did some mowing.

The not so good news. The engine sounds ok and comes up to full revs quick enough. It pushes the tractor around easily with no feeling of laboring. However when the mower is engaged it is struggling a bit. It wont move anywhere near the speed it does without the mower running (basically crawling along). The blades are spinning and it cuts the grass (not long or thick) but it's not right. I will give it another test tomorrow.

The deck and all the body looks good. No signs of rust. The hour meter says 185.6 but the seat looks like it might have seen more...

The model # is 72081 and serial # 3900378. The engine plate says model 303777, type 0412-01 and is labeled Toro Power Plus 16. Google says B&S.

I would like to get this machine into good order. Apart from needing a good clean it looks sound. The mechanical deck lever is missing it's knob and the two little bonnet hinge flanges have been bent out of shape - one pin looks like it might be tearing out. But I can see how that has happened...

Bryan

[edit] Google says 1993. 30 years - not bad

Edited December 2, 2023 by BryanL
New info

[SylvanLakeWH 25,539]

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

Welcome to Red Square

This is what we have on the 72081 model

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=72081&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

 

A 12 volt battery with 7 volts is done. You can't get accurate test results with a bad battery and that goes for any charging system.

[BryanL 17]

4 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Welcome to Red Square

This is what we have on the 72081 model

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=72081&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

 

A 12 volt battery with 7 volts is done. You can't get accurate test results with a bad battery and that goes for any charging system.

 

Thanks for the welcomes.

 

Thanks gwest_ca - lots of info to go through there.

 

That was my understanding on a lead acid. However if I can get enough into it to start the engine I don't care if I have to recharge it, or jump it, until I can get the alternator / generator charging sorted.

[BryanL 17]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

You can't get accurate test results with a bad battery and that goes for any charging system.

 

I just re-read your post. So you are saying that with a dud battery it wont be possible to test the rest of the system?

 

[Ed Kennell 38,149]

to the  Bryan.        I can't help much as I don't have any experience with vertical engine mowers.

 

I general though, You should check and if possible change oil in the engine and transmission. 

    Seeing engine RPM loss when you engage the mower indicates there is a friction problem in the mower blade drive train.      The blades should spin free by hand when disengaged.  If they do no spin freely, find the friction before a bearing or belt is destroyed.     Look for noisy dry rough  bearings in idler pulleys and spindle pulleys and clutch.   Look for string or wire wrapped around the spindle shafts above the blades.

Edited December 2, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[Pullstart 62,838]

  not many members “down under” 

[BryanL 17]

20 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

to the  Bryan.        I can't help much as I don't have any experience with vertical engine mowers.

 

I general though, You should check and if possible change oil in the engine and transmission. 

    Seeing engine RPM loss when you engage the mower indicates there is a friction problem in the mower blade drive train.      The blades should spin free by hand when disengaged.  If they do no spin freely, find the friction before a bearing or belt is destroyed.     Look for noisy dry rough  bearings in idler pulleys and spindle pulleys and clutch.   Look for string or wire wrapped around the spindle shafts above the blades.

 

Thanks Ed, all good advice and I will have a close look tomorrow. I don't have any ramps...

[BryanL 17]

1 hour ago, BryanL said:

A 12 volt battery with 7 volts is done. You can't get accurate test results with a bad battery and that goes for any charging system.

 

I have a feeling I was too quick and didn't get a proper connection when I read 7V on my MM. Mind you the volts gauge barely moved when I turned the key.

However, it was reading 12.5 after charging for only 2 or 3 hours and 12 when I turned the engine off. It's reading 11.95 now so it's hanging in there. Will see tomorrow.

[lynnmor 7,305]

Use this chart after the battery has been off the charger and the engine off for at least an hour.

Edited December 2, 2023 by lynnmor

[8ntruck 6,998]

to the forum.

 

When you are inspecting the deck for freedom ofspindle movement, take a look at the condition of the blades.  If they are dull, they can be sharpened with a file, if you don't have access to a grinder.  If there is a build up of grass clippings on the bottom of the deck, scrape that out as well.

 

I'll agree with the others.  Kind of sounds like a battery issue that you are fighting.  Good clean battery cable connections?  Check the mowerside of the cable connections too.

 

Good luck.

[BryanL 17]

This morning the battery was still at 11.95, same as when I left it last night. It didn't have enough to start the engine though. The solenoid was clicking. Which tells me the battery is still reasonable and my 7V read yesterday was wrong.

I put it on the charger for about 3 or 4 hours this morning. After about 15 mins off the charger it was 12.8V. It started the engine no worries. I put the MM on it while running and it was down around 12.5 - no charge coming from the alternator. I will have a look at the docs and see if I can get a read behind the regulator to determine if it's the regulator or alternator or wiring.

I checked the blades, belt, pulleys and everything turned easily and in sync - hardly any resistance at all.

I did a bit more mowing. It initially was pulling along nicely but started to slow down a bit every now and then. When I put it in neutral revs came back and was ok to keep going. I had a look around after it cooled down. If anything the belt driving the transmission seemed a touch loose - but probably ok. That wouldn't explain the drop in revs and slow down.

Steering is heavy - a workout on the arms...

Anyway it is progress.

[Pullstart 62,838]

The battery may be able to be revived.  Verify the level is adequate and fill with distilled water (but do not overfill) and try charging it again.  A load test once filled and charged will ultimately tell the real status of the battery.

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

to  !!!

 

You are in good hands with the guys already assisting you… So I will just follow along.

Good luck !

[953 nut 55,195]

Bryan there are a couple of things that may fix the charging problem. Start by cleaning and tightening ALL electrical connections including grounds. A bit of corrosion at any connection can cause some voltage loss. The second on is to take the battery to an auto parts store and have it load tested as @Pullstart suggested.

The loss of power issue could be a bit of crud built up in the fuel system preventing the engine from performing as it should. Use some Seafoam or Barrymans fuel treatment at about three times the recommended rate for a couple of tanks of gas and you probably will see an improvement.

[oliver2-44 9,739]

On 12/3/2023 at 12:57 AM, BryanL said:

This morning the battery was still at 11.95, same as when I left it last night. It didn't have enough to start the engine though. The solenoid was clicking. Which tells me the battery is still reasonable  

Connect you meter to the battery and read voltage when you hit the starter. If it immediately drops a volt or more battery is on its way out. Poor man’s load test