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DCwom

1054 won't go into any gear - Prep for storage

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DCwom

So I've got a 1054 that won't go into any gear, neutral is fine, so I can push it around. It did run at one time 4-5 years ago for my dad, but its low on the list of things to mess with right now. My question is what I should do to mothball it? Just leave it as is, drain the trans and leave it empty, or fill it with some other fluid for storage?

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Pullstart

Gear oil… 80W90 :handgestures-thumbupright:

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953 nut
9 hours ago, DCwom said:

1054 that won't go into any gear,

Unfortunately the opening where the shift lever enters the transaxle on a 1054 is nearly imposable to access unless the transaxle is removed. The thread below will be helpful when you do pull the 1054 out of storage.

Since your primary question is storage I would drain whatever is in the transaxle (could have some water) and refill with gear oil as @Pullstart suggested. 

 

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rmaynard
11 hours ago, DCwom said:

So I've got a 1054 that won't go into any gear, neutral is fine, so I can push it around. 

 

Just a thought. Is the engine running or not? If engine is running, do you have the belt guard on? Gears will grind and it won't go into gear if the belt guard is not in place.

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953 nut
10 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Gears will grind and it won't go into gear if the belt guard is not in place

953/1054 are the exception to this rule. There is a piece of angle iron running from the engine to the transmission that catches the slack of the belt when you depress the clutch.

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peter lena

@DCwom  there is a idler pulley in that set up , frayed belt suggests , bearing failure , bearing starts to bind up , causing incremental stop / start , bounce , another thing is any / all related dry rusty movement areas . penetrating spray , makes the rust run out , personally if I were , draining a trans axel / storage , like a high mileage atf fluid , for a recovery base point , move it around for initial soaking effect , also love KROIL  additive for recovery . pete 

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DCwom
10 hours ago, peter lena said:

@DCwom  there is a idler pulley in that set up , frayed belt suggests , bearing failure , bearing starts to bind up , causing incremental stop / start , bounce , another thing is any / all related dry rusty movement areas . penetrating spray , makes the rust run out , personally if I were , draining a trans axel / storage , like a high mileage atf fluid , for a recovery base point , move it around for initial soaking effect , also love KROIL  additive for recovery . pete 

 

My 1st thought was gear oil as @Pullstart suggested, but I do have a couple quarts of unused ATF fluid heading for the county hazardous waste collection site that I could flush with. Since it doesn't move I don't know if there is any value in pouring that through between the initial oil drain and new gear oil. Maybe I could throw a rope on it and pull it around the yard with the Raider to splash it around? Something moves in the transmission even in neutral, right?

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953 nut
41 minutes ago, DCwom said:

Maybe I could throw a rope on it and pull it around the yard with the Raider to splash it around? Something moves in the transmission even in neutral, right?

The ATF flush would be a good idea, There will be plenty of oil splashing around in neutral.

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peter lena

@DCwom  realize your situation of movement , before I drain / flush my trans fluid , typically run them up the road to a cull de sac area , for total spraying , heating up , drain down effect . no extra loading on the tractor , use every gear / range , found that  atf fluid gives it a more thorough cleaning . when you replace the shift boot , lightly grease the INSIDE OF IT , AT BASE AREA ,  lets it slide easier , also put a tye wrap on the steel shifter rod , ABOVE THE SHIFT BOOT  ?  holds it in place , lasts longer . like LUCAS  climbing gear oil , read bottle specs , would also add it thru the shifter area , for spread down effect. stay at it , you are learning as you go . anything I suggest , tried , been doing for years . hope it  frees up for you . pete 

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