DCwom 78 #1 Posted November 28, 2023 So I've got a 1054 that won't go into any gear, neutral is fine, so I can push it around. It did run at one time 4-5 years ago for my dad, but its low on the list of things to mess with right now. My question is what I should do to mothball it? Just leave it as is, drain the trans and leave it empty, or fill it with some other fluid for storage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,118 #2 Posted November 28, 2023 Gear oil… 80W90 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,960 #3 Posted November 28, 2023 9 hours ago, DCwom said: 1054 that won't go into any gear, Unfortunately the opening where the shift lever enters the transaxle on a 1054 is nearly imposable to access unless the transaxle is removed. The thread below will be helpful when you do pull the 1054 out of storage. Since your primary question is storage I would drain whatever is in the transaxle (could have some water) and refill with gear oil as @Pullstart suggested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,642 #4 Posted November 28, 2023 11 hours ago, DCwom said: So I've got a 1054 that won't go into any gear, neutral is fine, so I can push it around. Just a thought. Is the engine running or not? If engine is running, do you have the belt guard on? Gears will grind and it won't go into gear if the belt guard is not in place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,960 #5 Posted November 28, 2023 10 minutes ago, rmaynard said: Gears will grind and it won't go into gear if the belt guard is not in place 953/1054 are the exception to this rule. There is a piece of angle iron running from the engine to the transmission that catches the slack of the belt when you depress the clutch. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,779 #6 Posted November 28, 2023 @DCwom there is a idler pulley in that set up , frayed belt suggests , bearing failure , bearing starts to bind up , causing incremental stop / start , bounce , another thing is any / all related dry rusty movement areas . penetrating spray , makes the rust run out , personally if I were , draining a trans axel / storage , like a high mileage atf fluid , for a recovery base point , move it around for initial soaking effect , also love KROIL additive for recovery . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DCwom 78 #7 Posted November 29, 2023 10 hours ago, peter lena said: @DCwom there is a idler pulley in that set up , frayed belt suggests , bearing failure , bearing starts to bind up , causing incremental stop / start , bounce , another thing is any / all related dry rusty movement areas . penetrating spray , makes the rust run out , personally if I were , draining a trans axel / storage , like a high mileage atf fluid , for a recovery base point , move it around for initial soaking effect , also love KROIL additive for recovery . pete My 1st thought was gear oil as @Pullstart suggested, but I do have a couple quarts of unused ATF fluid heading for the county hazardous waste collection site that I could flush with. Since it doesn't move I don't know if there is any value in pouring that through between the initial oil drain and new gear oil. Maybe I could throw a rope on it and pull it around the yard with the Raider to splash it around? Something moves in the transmission even in neutral, right? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,960 #8 Posted November 29, 2023 41 minutes ago, DCwom said: Maybe I could throw a rope on it and pull it around the yard with the Raider to splash it around? Something moves in the transmission even in neutral, right? The ATF flush would be a good idea, There will be plenty of oil splashing around in neutral. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,779 #9 Posted November 29, 2023 @DCwom realize your situation of movement , before I drain / flush my trans fluid , typically run them up the road to a cull de sac area , for total spraying , heating up , drain down effect . no extra loading on the tractor , use every gear / range , found that atf fluid gives it a more thorough cleaning . when you replace the shift boot , lightly grease the INSIDE OF IT , AT BASE AREA , lets it slide easier , also put a tye wrap on the steel shifter rod , ABOVE THE SHIFT BOOT ? holds it in place , lasts longer . like LUCAS climbing gear oil , read bottle specs , would also add it thru the shifter area , for spread down effect. stay at it , you are learning as you go . anything I suggest , tried , been doing for years . hope it frees up for you . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites