OoPEZoO 526 #26 Posted November 30, 2023 Hey Ed, I know everyones experiences are a little different, but be wary of the TSC sourced drive belts. I've never had an issue using one of their belts for something driven by the PTO, but I went through some headaches trying to replace the drive belt on my 314-8. I went through 3 different TSC belts of different sizes and no matter what I used it shifted like crap......I was either getting slippage or the clutch was like an ON/OFF switch depending on the belt length I chose. I couldn't find a happy medium. I ended up going to the local Toro dealer and getting the proper belt $$$, and it shifts like butter now. I hope the cheaper option works for you, but if ends up being a take off wheelie machine, I'd look there first. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,598 #27 Posted November 30, 2023 1 hour ago, OoPEZoO said: I hope the cheaper option works for you Me too, Waldo @elcamino/wheelhorse doesn't want me to spend too many bucks on this roller. I have to admit, most of my TSC belts are used on hydros, decks and tillers. I have used them on a Raider and my custom dragster, both 8 speeds, w/o issues. The good with my TSC, It's close and I return what doesn't fit or work for a full refund. We shall see how it works on this 312-8. Thanks for sharing your experience. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,598 #28 Posted December 4, 2023 60F and sunny yesterday so I rolled her outside and gave her a bath. Cleaned up real well. Picked up a new TSC drive belt. $26.99 Perfect fit. A few months back there was a discussion about weather the belt retainer on the idler pulley helped to stop the belt from moving for smooth gear shifting. I didn't have a gear drive at the time, but now am able to demonstrate how effective this belt brake really is, I am aware the early gear drives did not have the stationary tab where the belt could be pinched by the moving retainer on the pulley. Take notice, this is a new stiff belt and there is no belt guard or belt guides around the engine pulley, but the belt stops instantly when the clutch is depressed. 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #29 Posted December 4, 2023 22 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: 60F and sunny yesterday so I rolled her outside and gave her a bath. Cleaned up real well. Picked up a new TSC drive belt. $26.99 Perfect fit. A few months back there was a discussion about weather the belt retainer on the idler pulley helped to stop the belt from moving for smooth gear shifting. I didn't have a gear drive at the time, but now am able to demonstrate how effective this belt brake really is, I am aware the early gear drives did not have the stationary tab where the belt could be pinched by the moving retainer on the pulley. Take notice, this is a new stiff belt and there is no belt guard or belt guides around the engine pulley, but the belt stops instantly when the clutch is depressed. Lookin' good, Ed! "Works fine lasts a long time." 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #30 Posted December 4, 2023 @Ed Kennell that deck looks sweet ! would take my time in insuring / retaining function , picked up one like that years ago , little use . went over everything , solid , quiet , rust free , having a l lubrication , sleep till spring , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,598 #31 Posted December 6, 2023 On 12/4/2023 at 6:26 PM, peter lena said: , sleep till spring Oiled up and soaking till Spring Pete. New bearings in the front wheels. New fuel filter. Changed fluids and greased all zerks. Made some rubber pads to quiet the seat and hood rattles. The left side tunnel plate was broken where the seat mounts. Added 1x1 angle iron to beef it up. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elcamino/wheelhorse 9,345 #32 Posted December 6, 2023 Dang you do good work. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #33 Posted December 6, 2023 @Ed Kennell HEY YOU CAN,T DO THAT ! classic irony in your maintained pick up touches , thats what I,M talking about ! sounds like a regular look over , eliminate problem , could we possibly be on the same page ? that deck underside , looks like a mirror of mine , all mine are R/D with baffles removed . good for you ! Pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,598 #34 Posted December 16, 2023 Removed the scratched up decal from the front of the hood. Heat gun to peel off the decal, then mineral spirits and a plastic credit card to scrape off the glue. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #35 Posted December 17, 2023 You have the same deck belt guards I have on my 416-8. No mowing in flip-flops 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulyv56 148 #36 Posted January 3 On 12/5/2023 at 7:20 PM, Ed Kennell said: Oiled up and soaking till Spring Pete. New bearings in the front wheels. New fuel filter. Changed fluids and greased all zerks. Made some rubber pads to quiet the seat and hood rattles. The left side tunnel plate was broken where the seat mounts. Added 1x1 angle iron to beef it up. Nice Work!, Can i ask what type of oil for the bottom of the mowing deck. I want to preserve my 28 Y.O Mint mower deck. Looks great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,598 #37 Posted January 3 25 minutes ago, paulyv56 said: Can i ask what type of oil for the bottom of the mowing deck. I'm almost embarrassed to tell ya. I save all my drainings when changing oil in my vehicles, so it's mostly used 10w30w. I don't get a lot, but the marine lower unit oil from my outboards sticks well and I use most of that on trailer springs of boat trailers that are constantly dunked in salt water. I don't think the type oil is important. The key is to remove all grass and rust each fall, turn it up side down, and soak it with oil allowing it to penetrate for a week before turning it back over to drain before winter storage. If you need to buy material, May be @peter lena will offer advice. Pete is our resident expert on grease and oil. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulyv56 148 #38 Posted January 3 I will save my lower unit oil in the spring and use that. Makes sense. Thank You 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #39 Posted January 4 @paulyv56 very often state to , " break the GRUNGE CYCLE " my decks are clean / clear , and soaking now over winter till spring with lubrication soak. another thing thats common with an oiled surface is that it will easily release , any acumination , pops off easily . decks were , also exposed , bottom side to the sun , actually dry it out , hot surface , then penetrating oil , shat soaks in , then a heavier oil , to retain metal feed . my decks are stained black , from gear spray . just a suggestion , Pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulyv56 148 #40 Posted January 4 8 hours ago, peter lena said: @paulyv56 very often state to , " break the GRUNGE CYCLE " my decks are clean / clear , and soaking now over winter till spring with lubrication soak. another thing thats common with an oiled surface is that it will easily release , any acumination , pops off easily . decks were , also exposed , bottom side to the sun , actually dry it out , hot surface , then penetrating oil , shat soaks in , then a heavier oil , to retain metal feed . my decks are stained black , from gear spray . just a suggestion , Pete Thanks for that info Peter, I'll let that "soak" in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #41 Posted January 4 @paulyv56 yes making any change takes time , my initial deck issues and experimental improvements , were just that , try things, ironically , having a repetitive problem is what you want , for change ,effect , and see how things work after a change. went after the rust first , than after , related pulley failures , once verified as a solid fix , made the same changes to my 3 deck set ups . issues bug me , usually , break it down and find the cause. never duplicate what was there , might look the same , but sure does function differently . just put on my snow chains , with puller springs , on the connection area ? that added constant spring pull , lets the chains go where they want to be , drive it around then just touch up final connection . change a problem , Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #42 Posted February 7 @Ed Kennell great save on that ! lucky you , noticed the belt bounce , thats collective , bearing drag , also the initial pto lever engagement , bet those mule bearings are dry , idler pulleys are a regular RE GREASE FOR ME , usually a rust track , will tell you that . amazing how even the most basic maintenance is not addressed , looks like a baseline for any horse , I have picked up , pate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,358 #43 Posted February 7 On 12/5/2023 at 7:20 PM, Ed Kennell said: New bearings in the front wheels. New fuel filter. Changed fluids and greased all zerks. Gotta love this. Just good, thorough maintenance. Imagine the condition of any old barn find if everyone had done this? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
