Spindle cleaning ????

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

I have taken apart mower deck spindles - doing new bearings etc - I have brush cleaned the spindle housings and soap washed them but want to use something stronger to thoroughly clean the surface so I can paint them? I was thinking either gasoline or Brake cleaner but wasn't sure if those products would harm the spindle housing material?? Any suggestions what to use, or not to use to clean the mower spindles? Thanks, Bill

[Handy Don 12,214]

Interesting question, since I’ve decided that there is no point to trying to preserve their appearance (who sees them anyway?) in the hostile “under the deck” environment. I just try to keep them clean-ish, like the rest of the underside, to avoid excess corrosion.

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

agreed Don - my interest was not cosmetic for spindle appearence but rather as you mentioned the "corrosion issue" . My goal to clean the spindle housings was to be able to paint them hoping the paint would adhere  - thinking perhaps optimistically it would help "preserve" the spindle housing??????? Maybe thats not a practical objective but that was my thinking? -- I do clean under my deck after every few mowings -- using putty knife and then a pressure washer every half dozen cuttings. 

[squonk 41,071]

Brake cleaner should be fine

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Brake cleaner should be fine

i just do not want to risk any cleaner like gasoline or brake cleaner that's caustic that will "eat" away at spindle housing material -- or leave any chemical residue that will prevent the paint from bonding - thanks

[ri702bill 8,316]

What about powder coating the outside of the castings??

[Achto 27,565]

2 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

gasoline or brake cleaner that's caustic that will "eat" away at spindle housing material -- or leave any chemical residue that will prevent the paint from bonding - thanks

 

Neither of them will hurt the housing. Gasoline is an oil so not recommended as a final wash before paint. Beauty of brake cleaner is that it does not leave a residue behind.

 

Absolute best option - soap & water bath, then wipe them down with a preps-all surface cleaner that is designed to be a pre-paint wash. 

 

This is available at most auto parts centers.

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/grease-and-wax-removers/

 

I suggest a self etching primer before you paint, it will greatly enhance the bonding to the metal.

[JoeM 7,873]

I run a wire wheel on mine, clean with brake clean and put a coat of clear enamel seem to work okay. that enamel drys pretty hard. 

[peter lena 8,610]

@Brockport Bill  give mine a lubrication soaking , stays with it ,  been doing a lubrication soaking on my decks for years , my 3 decks are now soaking in , penetrating oil , base ,and heavy open gear lubricant . nothing stands up like that , and its always  feeding the deck with lube , zero rust / rot . are you going to clean out and RE GREASE the new bearings ? the original lube is a whinny , noisy failure . that noise is telling you of grease failure . 550 deg  polyurea rated Lucas grease , will not fail also do the mule drive bearings , pto inner needle bearing . good time to eliminate a  future noise problem ,  3 decks with this set up , smooth , quiet easy , no noise , corrosion . go oily , pete    

[daveoman1966 3,751]

Brake cleaner, Carb Cleaner, are good and I've used Lacquer thinner too.  Whatever you clean them with, for a LONG-TERM protectant, use POR-15.  It is kinda pricey, but...IMHO... worth the price.  It'll protect the aluminum housings much longer than any spray paint...  and it is very durable.  Here are a few before-after pics.      

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

5 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Neither of them will hurt the housing. Gasoline is an oil so not recommended as a final wash before paint. Beauty of brake cleaner is that it does not leave a residue behind.

 

Absolute best option - soap & water bath, then wipe them down with a preps-all surface cleaner that is designed to be a pre-paint wash. 

 

This is available at most auto parts centers.

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/grease-and-wax-removers/

 

I suggest a self etching primer before you paint, it will greatly enhance the bonding to the metal.

thanks - - will go to Autozone friday - per their web site they also have a spray can of what they call "Prep Spray"

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Brockport Bill  give mine a lubrication soaking , stays with it ,  been doing a lubrication soaking on my decks for years , my 3 decks are now soaking in , penetrating oil , base ,and heavy open gear lubricant . nothing stands up like that , and its always  feeding the deck with lube , zero rust / rot . are you going to clean out and RE GREASE the new bearings ? the original lube is a whinny , noisy failure . that noise is telling you of grease failure . 550 deg  polyurea rated Lucas grease , will not fail also do the mule drive bearings , pto inner needle bearing . good time to eliminate a  future noise problem ,  3 decks with this set up , smooth , quiet easy , no noise , corrosion . go oily , pete    

Pete: Awhile ago I adopted your list of suggestions -- yes, using Lucas with new bearings - - the spindle housings are completely clean - now to install bearings, tubes etc. My 2 other decks are lubed and in the shed for winter storage - still using one on the tractor

2 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

Brake cleaner, Carb Cleaner, are good and I've used Lacquer thinner too.  Whatever you clean them with, for a LONG-TERM protectant, use POR-15.  It is kinda pricey, but...IMHO... worth the price.  It'll protect the aluminum housings much longer than any spray paint...  and it is very durable.  Here are a few before-after pics.      

is the por 15 you used a brush on product or spray

[daveoman1966 3,751]

Brush on...  I don't think the POR-15 is available in spray can...but MAYBE.  

 

[mrc 812]

i'm with daveoman.  i also paint my spindle housings with POR15.  very durable!

[JoeM 7,873]

1 hour ago, mrc said:

POR15.  very durable!

rust bullet is a good one too. might be a little cheaper on the jungle site.

 

 

Edited November 17, 2023 by JoeM

[kpinnc 12,007]

18 hours ago, peter lena said:

give mine a lubrication soaking

 

I agree with Pete. My FIL has been soaking his decks with light oil every time he does any maintenance on them. Nothing, and I mean nothing adheres to any part of the underside of the deck. And of course no rust. Also no stuck nuts or bolts. I've found no negatives.

 

I've always used some sort of undercoating with decent results, but have become a believer in regular spray downs with light oil. It works, no question. 

Edited November 17, 2023 by kpinnc

[peter lena 8,610]

@kpinnc  https://www.toolup.com/Aervoe-7045-H-D-Open-Gear-Wire-Rope-Lube?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAu9yqBhBmEiwAHTx5p8Uzj6-9Wv6SXZPPAt1FLLoeS50yss9iFWefJvAmV9xW19412qdIbhoC54IQAvD_BwE  changed over to this for cost , shop around for costs , while I love lubriplate  , its staggering cost increase , made me look for a similar heavy over coat , that seals itself off and retains lubrication . thats what you  want over a penetrating oil base spray . that combo is also a stopper on cars / trucks . rather have an oil film on a seam area , verifying its internal oil creep than rust . just saw 2 ford tailgates , one was solid rust , the other had an oil film on / in it , that about says it all , having a lubrication creep , is easy  for protection . glad you are experimenting ,  hot sun on an oiled deck is the deal ,stains it black with protection . stay oily , pete

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

50 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@kpinnc  https://www.toolup.com/Aervoe-7045-H-D-Open-Gear-Wire-Rope-Lube?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAu9yqBhBmEiwAHTx5p8Uzj6-9Wv6SXZPPAt1FLLoeS50yss9iFWefJvAmV9xW19412qdIbhoC54IQAvD_BwE  changed over to this for cost , shop around for costs , while I love lubriplate  , its staggering cost increase , made me look for a similar heavy over coat , that seals itself off and retains lubrication . thats what you  want over a penetrating oil base spray . that combo is also a stopper on cars / trucks . rather have an oil film on a seam area , verifying its internal oil creep than rust . just saw 2 ford tailgates , one was solid rust , the other had an oil film on / in it , that about says it all , having a lubrication creep , is easy  for protection . glad you are experimenting ,  hot sun on an oiled deck is the deal ,stains it black with protection . stay oily , pete

hey Pete : thanks for info -- i read the product info for this product on the TOOLUP site link  -- when you speak of the oil application on the underneath of mowers using a product such as this ---- does it penetrate painted surfaces, or is its benefit for only bare steel -- with paint worn off???? In other words does it "stick" to painted underneath ( new or old paint) and still achieve same objective? thanks

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

On 11/16/2023 at 3:04 PM, Achto said:

 

Neither of them will hurt the housing. Gasoline is an oil so not recommended as a final wash before paint. Beauty of brake cleaner is that it does not leave a residue behind.

 

Absolute best option - soap & water bath, then wipe them down with a preps-all surface cleaner that is designed to be a pre-paint wash. 

 

This is available at most auto parts centers.

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/grease-and-wax-removers/

 

I suggest a self etching primer before you paint, it will greatly enhance the bonding to the metal.

thanks for suggestion as alternative to gasoline or brake fluid ----  I found and bought the Dupli-Color Prep Cleaner -- read the product info - - seemed like a good solution they list as grease and wax remover and for cleaning and preping the spindles aluminum surface - cleaned them pretty well before i primed them

Edited November 18, 2023 by Brockport Bill
product photo added

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

14 hours ago, peter lena said:

@kpinnc  https://www.toolup.com/Aervoe-7045-H-D-Open-Gear-Wire-Rope-Lube?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAu9yqBhBmEiwAHTx5p8Uzj6-9Wv6SXZPPAt1FLLoeS50yss9iFWefJvAmV9xW19412qdIbhoC54IQAvD_BwE  changed over to this for cost , shop around for costs , while I love lubriplate  , its staggering cost increase , made me look for a similar heavy over coat , that seals itself off and retains lubrication . thats what you  want over a penetrating oil base spray . that combo is also a stopper on cars / trucks . rather have an oil film on a seam area , verifying its internal oil creep than rust . just saw 2 ford tailgates , one was solid rust , the other had an oil film on / in it , that about says it all , having a lubrication creep , is easy  for protection . glad you are experimenting ,  hot sun on an oiled deck is the deal ,stains it black with protection . stay oily , pete

I ordered the Aervoe 7045 today for use on mower decks -- i've been using Spray gear oil, or WD 40 -- so I will use this spray for winter mower deck storage after scraping clean and pressure washing --- then in spring for some mowing to see how it works?

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

On 11/16/2023 at 3:04 PM, Achto said:

 

Neither of them will hurt the housing. Gasoline is an oil so not recommended as a final wash before paint. Beauty of brake cleaner is that it does not leave a residue behind.

 

Absolute best option - soap & water bath, then wipe them down with a preps-all surface cleaner that is designed to be a pre-paint wash. 

 

This is available at most auto parts centers.

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/grease-and-wax-removers/

 

I suggest a self etching primer before you paint, it will greatly enhance the bonding to the metal.

 i also took your suggestion and used Self Etching primer --- --- you will be pleased to know the Napa "paint guy" also said important to use self etching primer on the spindles because they are aluminum material so he reinforced your suggestion.

[peter lena 8,610]

@Brockport Bill  that pressure washing is driving moisture in to  seam areas , would rather have a lubricant in there as a base oil feed , preventing a rust start, have also removed the , blade tins , to eliminate the rot  box effect , trapping holding wet rotting grass , that destroys  decks , all my decks are clean / clear , for zero holding of  any grass debris . cutting is clean / clear , with little to no grass collection . realize this is a " you cant do that "  change I  have made . if there was anything I lost in the removal , it was holding deck rot , in place . WD 40 , is minimal at best , you want a PENETRANT oil as a base creep , stain , then the heavy over coat / drying seal . thats what works , break the moisture / rot cycle , clean, penetrant feed , give that some time to creep , then open gear , for a holding seal finish , decks are now , spring held up to wall / angle , for winter soaking recovery , pete    

[peter lena 8,610]

@Brockport Bill   often refer to spring mounts ,  notice the HEAVY  HOOKS ? picture one  connected to a screw in wall  eye , attached to a heavy spring , holding your deck up to wall  ?  like having an extra arm , easily hooked to  deck lift frame area . pete

 

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Brockport Bill  that pressure washing is driving moisture in to  seam areas , would rather have a lubricant in there as a base oil feed , preventing a rust start, have also removed the , blade tins , to eliminate the rot  box effect , trapping holding wet rotting grass , that destroys  decks , all my decks are clean / clear , for zero holding of  any grass debris . cutting is clean / clear , with little to no grass collection . realize this is a " you cant do that "  change I  have made . if there was anything I lost in the removal , it was holding deck rot , in place . WD 40 , is minimal at best , you want a PENETRANT oil as a base creep , stain , then the heavy over coat / drying seal . thats what works , break the moisture / rot cycle , clean, penetrant feed , give that some time to creep , then open gear , for a holding seal finish , decks are now , spring held up to wall / angle , for winter soaking recovery , pete    

great insights - i use pressure washer carefully - don't force water into spindles or vulnerable areas -- or into seams  to avoid rust issues. I also use leaf blower to dry water and then let deck sit in the sun so moisture doesn't sit -- I also religiously do not mow damp grass - its amazing to me hearing mowers in the neighborhood when grass is wet from rain - or morning or evening dew!!! My decks have almost zero clumps of grass, plus i use leaf blower all around above and below deck after each use and putty knife as necessary for any accumulation -- Of course the grass in spring has lots of moisture in it so i am more attentive in the spring than with dry summer grass. Here is photo of my original 37 s.d. mower I bought new in 1989, thirty four years ago -- I recently did restore -- had a few corroision locations but overall expect to last another few decades

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

i have learned a great deal since joining R.Sq a few years ago so I am much more attentive and disciplined about maintenance issues. Ols saying about life - "i wish i knew then what i know now "-- haha