Wear Bar

[1mor Project 78]

I plan to replace the wear bar on my snow blade. Has anyone got any suggestion for making square holes for the carriage bolts other than my usual drill and file square? I am open to buying a new tool or two to do it since I have multiple snow blades .

Also did Toro make a skid for the blade with two slotted holes? I plan to make some, but might consider buying them if they are available.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[Pullstart 62,837]

Waterjet?  Plasma table?

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

i had a welder fabricator shop do the square holes for the carriage bolt heads

[bds1984 1,429]

I just use locknuts and lock washers and never had any issue.

[Achto 27,565]

26 minutes ago, 1mor Project said:

Has anyone got any suggestion for making square holes for the carriage bolts other than my usual drill and file square?

 

A wear bar is a usable commodity so I don't spend any more time on mine than I have to. I just drill holes and use button head allen bolts to hold it on. No special tools required.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Screws-Finish-Machine/dp/B08YTXK1TP/ref=asc_df_B08YTXK1TP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=658845552652&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11327232653109552112&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1028137&hvtargid=pla-2065033038150&mcid=dc4c00d069a631198f72be978431e762&th=1

Edited November 15, 2023 by Achto

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

Click on the fuzzy picture

 

[lynnmor 7,305]

Buy a square broach, I didn't look up the size you need so I didn't include a source.  Prices will be all over the map.

 

[ri702bill 8,316]

I have done this before using a new 3/8" HSS square lathe tool blank as a punch. Turned the last 1/4" down to just fit the tight fit clearance hole as a centering guide. The corners are left sharp. It is then setup in the 20 ton press and pushed thru. You STILL need to filed the square opened up a bit.......

Edited November 16, 2023 by ri702bill

[ri702bill 8,316]

5 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Buy a square broach, I didn't look up the size you need so I didn't include a source.  Prices will be all over the map.

 

These are not cheap and MUST be guided and used with a hydraulic press, just like a keyway broach. They do NOT tolerate impact - hitting it with a BFH will break it.

[1mor Project 78]

Wow! Just over an hour and I got so many replies. The suggestion of button heads drove me to McMaster. I decided to go with the knurled neck carriage bolts. Look the same when installed and round holes. One box will cover all my blades. 

Thank You so much. 

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

one thing i like about the carriage bolts is the rounded smooth heads -- less damage --- easier to remove nuts from rear in the future because the bolt is locked into the hole -- whereas if a standard bolt head is used it can get worn and damaged and hard to restrain with wrench while removing the rear nut

[ri702bill 8,316]

There is something to be said for using soft Grade 3 bolts in this application. Same idea as using soft shear pins for snowblower augers......

[8ntruck 6,998]

If you find a shop with an iron working machine, they should be able to punch square holes for you.

[daveoman1966 3,751]

Use Stainless Steel carriage bolts for the scraper bar....they won't rust, making it much easier to swap out whenever needed.  Just plain Nylok nuts is all you need.  

 

[Wayne0 457]

On 11/15/2023 at 12:33 PM, 1mor Project said:

I plan to replace the wear bar on my snow blade. Has anyone got any suggestion for making square holes for the carriage bolts other than my usual drill and file square? I am open to buying a new tool or two to do it since I have multiple snow blades .

Also did Toro make a skid for the blade with two slotted holes? I plan to make some, but might consider buying them if they are available.

Thanks in advance for your help.

We don't need no stinkin'  square holes!

[SylvanLakeWH 25,535]

On 11/16/2023 at 1:36 AM, daveoman1966 said:

Use Stainless Steel carriage bolts for the scraper bar....they won't rust, making it much easier to swap out whenever needed.  Just plain Nylok nuts is all you need.  

 

[peter lena 8,610]

@1mor Project  agree with a metal shop for a , square hole punch , another thing while you are in the area , might try a lubrication rub down on that blade face , stops rust , and releases snow / slop with no effort , might even do some plow STEERING QUADRANT DETAILING . pop off the top cover , over the swing arc , that  works with the lever squeeze handle , slide pin , like penetrating aerosol first , makes the rust run out , then red aerosol spray grease , makes that pin slide work like a rifle bolt . would also firm up sloppy connections , added washers , elastic lock nuts , red grease . that l/8"  lever squeeze , connection rod , can be tightened , with a small channel lock plyer, making for a detailed easier control movement . typically do this set up with plow on 2 milk crates , roller stool around it , verifying , changes , improvements . when done that blade swings with no effort , have 3 set up  this way , Pete   

[P3x 56]

I started using Conveyor Belt trimmings sandwiched between the wear bar and plow blade. Helps to not gouge pavement and holds up very well. I've been plowing my paved drive using the current installed strip for 6-7 years.

 

Can obtain from Surplus center.