310-8 Wiring Issues

[Gcw804 4]

Hello

I bought a 310-8 Model 2110K806 Serial # 36339 last fall and it's always had some flaky electrical problems.

The numbers in the light area on the model tag appear to be 8806.

The other day it just stop completely and would not turn over.

I replaced the solenoid  and switch. The switch that was on it, is a six lug (115215) switch with 2 blue connected,1 green. 2 tan, 1 white, 1 dark blue, and red/orange, then 2 black wires.

The red/orange and white wires looked pretty burnt so I drew a diagram of how the wires were in the black plastic switch cover.

When I replaced it with a new switch, and went to replace the panel, it started sparking and  I got a lot of sparks and smoke..

The insulation on one of the black ground wires got so hot that it burned off of it.

I did get it to run yesterday after all of the smoking and it wouldn't cut off,so I turned the gas valve on the bottom of the gas tank off and it

finally stopped running. lol

 

I am still getting sparks when I go to insert the little tabs into the slots that hold the bottom of the instrument panel in place, so obviously something is not correct.

I have looked for a wiring and switch diagrams but can't find anything exactly like what matches my wiring colors and switch type.

 

Now it will turn over but not start.

 

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

[Gcw804 4]

A couple of things I forgot to mention in my earlier post are:

I did turn the gas back on.

I replaced the one black wire that the insulation melted on.

The other black wire the insulation looks questionable too.

Now as soon as I hook the battery up the voltmeter moves to the center regardless of the switch key position.

I have a remote starter switch that I hooked one lead to the orange wire on the little terminal on the bottom of the solenoid and the other to the positive side of the battery.

With the switch in a run position, it just turns over like it does when I try the normal keyed switch.

 

Again thanks

Gary

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Download this wiring diagram.

Each circuit has it's own diagram

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

The numbers in the light area on the model tag appear to be 8806.

 

This is likely 8306 for the Julian build date - 306th day of 1988 which is correct for a 1989 tractor.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

The main wiring diagram in the files shows the rear of the ignition switch if you have the correct switch. The 1-2-2 ports in the connector body help identify wire locations.

[Gcw804 4]

First off let me thank Qwest for sending me the wiring diagram file and the manual file.

They were a tremendous help in resolving some of the problems.

 

Now let me admit what a Idiot I am to people I don't know.

Somehow when I installed the new solenoid I had both the hot and ground wired on one terminal.

I'm surprised that I burn up more than just the ground wire running from the switch to the solenoid.

 

It will crank right up and run for 15 or 20 minutes then just dies.

I checked the fuel system and that is OK, I checked to make sure it is getting spark at the spark plug and it is.

Once it sits for an hour to an hour and a half, it will crank and crank then start.

It will run again for 15 or 20 minutes and die.

 

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the oil sensing switch is heating up and shutting it down.

 

I'm thinking of disconnecting the oil sensing switch and jumping it to see if it will run for more than 15 to 20 minutes.

 

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Again Thanks

 

Gary Williams

 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

The low oil switch only prevents the starter from working if the oil level is low.

 

Have you tried loosening the fuel cap? The tank may not be vented.

[Gcw804 4]

I haven't tried that but will try it later today and will let you know if that helps. 

Thanks again

Gary

[Gcw804 4]

I thought I would update everyone on my problem. 

My 310-8 that I bought last fall would run for 15 minutes or so,  then just shut down and wouldn't run again until it cooled down.

I tried what Qwest suggested and it still did the same thing.

I mentioned the problem to my nephew who restores high end antique cars and he said it sounded like the coil was heating up and breaking down.

 

Long story short, the local repair shop told me after searching their database that the only place I could find some of these parts was Amazon.

I like to support local  businesses when I can, but I ordered a complete repair kit with carburetor, fuel pump, air filter, gas hose, clamps, spark plug,etc for $59.00 and a coil for $28.00 from Amazon since that was the only place I could get parts for this thing. I know they are all Chinese made, but if it will run for a couple more years that would be great.

I had to grind off some of the throttle linkage on the new carburetor and use the choke lever from my old carburetor since both were too long and hitting the back of the air filter backing plate.

 

I replaced the carburetor and coil and it runs better than it ever has since I've owned it.

 

Thanks for the help.

Gary