Colby G 233 #1 Posted November 7, 2023 Hello, I recently bought a charger 12 as a restoration project and was wondering how the brakes work, because when I depress the pedal, it seems to only put the tractor in neutral. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #2 Posted November 7, 2023 Hydro or manual transmission? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #3 Posted November 7, 2023 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: Hydro or manual transmission? Hydro 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #4 Posted November 7, 2023 So that should be made between 1968 and 1972 and it would have a Sundstrand transmission. There is no actual mechanical brake on those. The movement, or lack thereof, of the tractor is dictated strictly by the position of the motion control lever. The brake pedal is linked as you see and it returns it to neutral which puts you to a position of little to no movement in either direction. Sometimes adjustment is necessary. Once the tractor is STOPPED there is a release for the belt which moves a lever inside the transmission locking a gear in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #5 Posted November 7, 2023 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: So that should be made between 1968 and 1972 and it would have a Sundstrand transmission. There is no actual mechanical brake on those. The movement, or lack thereof, of the tractor is dictated strictly by the position of the motion control lever. The brake pedal is linked as you see and it returns it to neutral which puts you to a position of little to no movement in either direction. Sometimes adjustment is necessary. Once the tractor is STOPPED there is a release for the belt which moves a lever inside the transmission locking a gear in place. Does it have to have an engine for this mechanism to work? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #6 Posted November 7, 2023 2 minutes ago, Colby G said: Does it have to have an engine for this mechanism to work? In a way... If the transmission is not being driven by the engine then there would be no fluid pressure to keep the tractor going forward or backwards, or in place. The gear locking mechanism however would not need an engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,758 #7 Posted November 7, 2023 The 'brake' is applied by pulling UP on the lever next to your right knee. Pulling UP on it engages the PARKING PAWL inside the gearbox ---AND--- simultaneously disengages the belt from the Engine pulley. DO NOT EVER pull UP on this lever while in motion. You WILL destroy gears inside the gearbox.... GUARANTEED! Pull UP on this lever ONLY when at a FULL STOP. It is, effectively, the same a putting your car into PARK. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #8 Posted November 7, 2023 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: In a way... If the transmission is not being driven by the engine then there would be no fluid pressure to keep the tractor going forward or backwards, or in place. The gear locking mechanism however would not need an engine. Where is the belt release? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #9 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) 11 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said: The 'brake' is applied by pulling UP on the lever next to your right knee. Pulling UP on it engages the PARKING PAWL inside the gearbox ---AND--- simultaneously disengages the belt from the Engine pulley. DO NOT EVER pull UP on this lever while in motion. You WILL destroy gears inside the gearbox.... GUARANTEED! Pull UP on this lever ONLY when at a FULL STOP. It is, effectively, the same a putting your car into PARK. And what if it still moves when this lever is pulled up? Edited November 7, 2023 by Colby G Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #10 Posted November 7, 2023 I kinda figured it out, the mechanism isn't going up all the way. How do I fix it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #11 Posted November 7, 2023 Can you post pictures? Or do you have a YouTube account where you could post short videos? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #12 Posted November 7, 2023 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: Can you post pictures? Or do you have a YouTube account where you could post short videos? I have a youtube account where I could post a short video of it. The forum only lets me post a maximum of .86MB for some reason where before it let me do up to around 2.5MB. My channel name is atomic apex. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #13 Posted November 7, 2023 8 minutes ago, Colby G said: The forum only lets me post This is where it pays to become a Redsquare Supporter. Ads are gone. Limits are gone. And you help @nylyon keep this great site going. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #14 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: This is where it pays to become a Redsquare Supporter. Ads are gone. Limits are gone. And you help @nylyon keep this great site going. Id love to but I don't have the money to right now... Not with my tractors that need gas and stuff. It's does cost money to become a redsquare supporter, right? Edited November 7, 2023 by Colby G Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #15 Posted November 7, 2023 1 minute ago, Colby G said: Id love to but I don't have the money to right now... Not with my tractors that need gas and stuff. It's does cost money to become a redsquare supporter, right? I think it's $20 a year. It's about prioritizing to the best place. IMHO it's a better investment than a LOT of tractor parts or repairs. That's 20 bucks you can spend KNOWING you'll get that much VALUE out of the knowledge. Chances are you'll save that amount several times over by asking the right questions and doing repairs correctly the first time. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #16 Posted November 7, 2023 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I think it's $20 a year. It's about prioritizing to the best place. IMHO it's a better investment than a LOT of tractor parts or repairs. That's 20 bucks you can spend KNOWING you'll get that much VALUE out of the knowledge. Chances are you'll save that amount several times over by asking the right questions and doing repairs correctly the first time. Maybe some day, I'm only in high school without a job is the problem, I do side jobs that don't pay that much... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #17 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) First off you should download the owners manual for your tractor. Free click on the fuzy picture to get the link. The parking brake handles pulls up and locks into the braked position. You have to push forward and down to release it. If the tractor still rolls with the handle pulled up then the parking pawl inside the transmission is shot. Edited November 7, 2023 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #18 Posted November 7, 2023 2 minutes ago, pfrederi said: First off you should download the owners manual for your tractor. Free click on the fuzy picture to get the link. The parking brake handles pulls up and locks into the braked position. You have to push forward and down to release it. If the tractor still rolls with the handle pulled up then the parking pawl inside the transmission is shot. I somewhat figured it out I think, I don't believe the handle is going up all the way. https://youtube.com/shorts/V6yMviatcKY?si=8vOtRDDoD3ATIEhV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #19 Posted November 7, 2023 If your handle will not stay up it appears the issues is the shiny bar spot on the arm and the pin that rides on it. If you look at the bottom of the pin I bet it has a deep groove worn in it. That need to be filled in and the arm (shiny part re shaped) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #20 Posted November 7, 2023 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: If your handle will not stay up it appears the issues is the shiny bar spot on the arm and the pin that rides on it. If you look at the bottom of the pin I bet it has a deep groove worn in it. That need to be filled in and the arm (shiny part re shaped) What should the arm look like? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #21 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) Edited November 7, 2023 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #22 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) 13 minutes ago, pfrederi said: I have an old transmission with a better arm, how would I replace it? Or would it be easier to just reshape it? Edited November 7, 2023 by Colby G Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #23 Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) Disconnect the spring drive out the small roll pin pull the arm off the transmission shaft Don't forget to fill in the groove that has worn into the pin (yellow circel) Edited November 7, 2023 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #24 Posted November 8, 2023 7 hours ago, pfrederi said: Disconnect the spring drive out the small roll pin pull the arm off the transmission shaft Don't forget to fill in the groove that has worn into the pin (yellow circel) And how would I reshape the arm? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colby G 233 #25 Posted November 8, 2023 Thank you to whoever gifted the one year supporter membership to me, you do not know how much it really means to me! 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites