Help with wireing

[Frank DeHaven 27]

I have recently bought a 416 8 however the wiring on it looks like someone butchered it. They have so many wires cut taped and I'm not sure what goes where. I have the wiring diagram but I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to just bypass all the safety stuff just so I can see if this thing will run? And you know help will be greatly appreciated.

Still a newbie but trying to learn

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,072]

Do you have the colored diagrams? Post your tractor model number and serial number and we can get the correct diagrams for you.

The wiring to the idiot lights is not necessary for the rest of it to work correctly.

[Pullstart 62,950]

 

Keep in mind safeties are there for a reason.  Some wiring on my tractors is not up to snuff.  However on a public forum, I will always suggest bypassing the safeties is purely for troubleshooting only.

 

Now.  If it’s a points engine, it’ll need power to the coil and juice to roll the engine over.  If it’s a Magnum engine, it’ll need juice to roll it over and a ground to kill the magneto.  Take that as you will…

[Frank DeHaven 27]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 

Keep in mind safeties are there for a reason.  Some wiring on my tractors is not up to snuff.  However on a public forum, I will always suggest bypassing the safeties is purely for troubleshooting only.

 

Now.  If it’s a points engine, it’ll need power to the coil and juice to roll the engine over.  If it’s a Magnum engine, it’ll need juice to roll it over and a ground to kill the magneto.  Take that as you will…

I plan on replacing all the safety switches. I'm trying to get this back too the beginning of its time. But right now I just want to get the engine running and then I will work on the wiring this winter.

You'll have to excuse my ignorance on whether it has a magneto or not, I am definitely not a mechanic unless you consider me a YouTube mechanic. But anyways all I need then is the positive to the coil and then juice to the starter to turn it over. Thanks that will be the next thing I try

[Pullstart 62,950]

This is a small block Kohler in the video, but it shows a points style engine.  If you have a points cover and a wire coming from it (it should have a condenser and be running to the ground side of the coil) then you should power the coil (ignition) and give the starter a jolt.

 

 

 

Here are more photos of a points style Kohler.  Note it has a round appearance to the flywheel fan shroud.

 

 

 

If your engine looks a little more blocky like this one, it’s a Magnum and has a magneto that simply requires a ground wire to kill it.

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,282]

27 minutes ago, Frank DeHaven said:

all I need then is the positive to the coil and then juice to the starter to turn it over. Thanks that will be the next thing I try

And good grounding at the starter and the correct gap at the (clean) points.

[Frank DeHaven 27]

Hope this helps

[Frank DeHaven 27]

I have not yet taken any of the old wiring out should I just leave that alone while I'm trying this other

 

 

[953 nut 55,394]

Presuming you have a good battery and battery cables the engine should turn over if you use a screwdriver or some other metal object to go between the two large terminals on the solenoid. Be sure the transmission is in neutral.

If you use a test light or meter attached to the "+" terminal of your ignition coil when the key is turned to RUN with the PTO in the off position you should have voltage. If you don't have power to the coil a small jumper wire can be run from the ignition coil "+" to the battery "+". Presuming the ignition trigger is working and you have compression and your fuel system are all operable the engine should run.

We will be able to work with you to redo the wiring. 

[Frank DeHaven 27]

I can't thank you enough for all your help. I know it must be a little difficult working with a dummy on lawn mowers. I'm going to try everything you told me and then I'll let you know. It may be a week or so I just had back surgery so the wife won't let me in the garage yet

[Handy Don 12,282]

6 hours ago, Frank DeHaven said:

I have not yet taken any of the old wiring out should I just leave that alone while I'm trying this other

 

Do you just want to hear it crank and fire or do you want it to keep running?

 

@953 nut is right on the money for a “short and sweet” test that assumes the existing tangle of wiring isn’t going to work against you. Should this method NOT work, the 416 wiring, depending on year, will take a bit more effort. It'll be time to learn how to read wiring diagrams and decide to clean up or else significantly re-wire. Alternately, it might be possible to get a complete used wiring harness from A-to-Z (one of the vendors who support this site).

 

Please post a picture of the wiring at the solenoid so we can see what you have there. 😄

[Pullstart 62,950]

Well, in that case I forgot about Onan twin 16s and I am completely wrong!  

[953 nut 55,394]

6 hours ago, Frank DeHaven said:

I can't thank you enough for all your help. You are very welcome! I know it must be a little difficult working with a dummy soon to be knowledgeable person on lawn mowers. I'm going to try everything you told me and then I'll let you know. It may be a week or so I just had back surgery so the wife won't let me in the garage yet.

.Hope your recovery is successful and you can enjoy a normal life   I can sympathise with you on the warden (wife) keeping you on a tight leash. After my spinal fusion the wife wouldn't let me out of her sight for a month. I'm recovering from a stroke now but the wife has been a lot better about letting me do what I can this time.

[clueless 3,006]

8 hours ago, Frank DeHaven said:

Hope this helps

That's a lot of oil? under the right bottom of the engine, it may need more than rewiring , hope not.

[Frank DeHaven 27]

The drain tube is loose

[lynnmor 7,322]

7 hours ago, Frank DeHaven said:

The drain tube is loose

Read this thread.

[Handy Don 12,282]

18 hours ago, Frank DeHaven said:

The drain tube is loose

It's clear that that this weathered old paint spent a lot more time outdoors in the pasture than in the barn (pun intended).

Sadly, some of the Onan engines’ electrical system components (fuse boxes and multi-pin connectors in particular) are a bit more vulnerable to weather than the Kohler's so you may have some challenges ahead. Nothing crazy serious or insurmountable--just more steps!