314-A transmission won't drive

[RedWheelz 149]

I got this 314-A we just rebuilt and restored and it was driving fine for a few weeks. Then when I was driving it pulling a tarp of leaves, it just lost power. ( nope...it wasn't a giant, super heavy load that burned up the tranny. My C-121 hauls heavier all day)

Linkage is all good.l, I changed the hydro fluid with 20w, still no go forward or reverse.

It's an Eaton 700 transmission. 

Didn't know if there was anything else to look for without tearing into it .

Thanks

[oliver2-44 9,847]

Check that the key in the transmission input pulley or the axle hubs  has not come loose where the pulley or hub is just spinning on the shaft. 

[rmaynard 15,580]

That Eaton 700 should be running 10w30 or 10w40. Also make sure that you are using a hydro filter and not an engine filter.

[RedWheelz 149]

I was just going by this

[RedWheelz 149]

26 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Check that the key in the transmission input pulley or the axle hubs  has not come loose where the pulley or hub is just spinning on the shaft. 

The key looks good on the pulley shaft, and the you can't move tractor so the rear hub keys are good

[Ed Kennell 38,598]

Might want to replace it with an Eaton 1100.

[Handy Don 12,436]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

That Eaton 700 should be running 10w30 or 10w40. Also make sure that you are using a hydro filter and not an engine filter.

The 700 doesn’t have a hydro filter.

 

Checking that no pulleys or hubs are loose on their shafts is task number one. Full stop. Expecially since you've just rebuilt it.

 

1 hour ago, RedWheelz said:

I was just going by this

In fact the manual discourages regular changes of the oil (which is a good thing because the drain is under the pump/motor housing right up against the top of the axle housing--wondering how you did the change 🤔). But 20W is correct.

 

You are already aware of the expansion reservoir for the hydro oil which should have only a little oil near the bottom when the hydro is cool and then it should be half or more full when the hydro is at full operating temperature. Go ahead and dip out a sample of that oil and look at it very closely. Suspended metal particles would indicate bad wear on the internals and a 700 near death.

 

Depending on the model of Eaton 700 you have, one of these manuals should apply

[RedWheelz 149]

I snuck an allen wrench in there and got the drain plug out pretty easily. It was pretty dirty colored.

Yeah I got the reservoir properly filled .

 

[Handy Don 12,436]

12 minutes ago, RedWheelz said:

I snuck an allen wrench in there and got the drain plug out pretty easily. It was pretty dirty colored.

Yeah I got the reservoir properly filled .

 

Dark color oil is not worrisome. The intense friction and heat discolor it some. It’s milky caramel/latte (from water),or “speckled” (metal particles) that are bad news.

[rmaynard 15,580]

31 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

The 700 doesn’t have a hydro filter.

My bad...sorry

[RedWheelz 149]

21 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

My bad...sorry

Yeah I spent a few mins searching for one scratchin' my head

[Tuneup 1,433]

My old 700 on the 516H has overheated a bit on constant mowing up and down a steep hill back when I first got it. I go across now and, your mileage may vary, but a 700 rebuilder said nothing other than 15W-50 synthetic. She's been great for the past year. Still, just stopping suddenly suggests something 'popped', hence the sheared key argument. It should still push with difficulty when you disengage the idler and move it to full forward. More difficult when cold, of course. Would that help diagnose??? Wheels turn, as well as the input pulley.

[RedWheelz 149]

Does the Eaton 700 have a relief valve.

[Handy Don 12,436]

19 minutes ago, RedWheelz said:

Does the Eaton 700 have a relief valve.

No, None of the Eatons do.

[Handy Don 12,436]

To recap (pleas confirm!):

- Eaton has oil and it isn’t milky or having suspended metal particles

- hubs and pulleys are not spinning on any their axle/shafts, i.e. no lost or broken keys

- loss of power was not accompanied by bang or lurch or grinding (which might have indicated something breaking)

- on the Eaton, the input shaft is turning and the motion lever is being moved properly by the tractor motion control

 

Further tests:

- Engine off. Jack up the rear and confirm that turning either wheel manually causes the other wheel to turn (either in the same or opposite direction) to confirm that axles and differential are intact.

- Still jacked up and front wheels chocked. Disconnect motion control linkage at the Eaton end. Engine on. Manually (and gently) operate the Eaton motion control lever to see if rear wheels move appropriately to confirm any hydro pump/motor action.

[RedWheelz 149]

Has new oil.

Hubs n pulleys fine

My nephew was driving, not sure if there was any noise.

Input shaft turning, linkage fine

Axle ,Differential working

Zero movement when jacked up.

[RedWheelz 149]

What do folks charge for transmissions these days

[Handy Don 12,436]

2 minutes ago, RedWheelz said:

Has new oil.

Hubs n pulleys fine

My nephew was driving, not sure if there was any noise.

Input shaft turning, linkage fine

Axle ,Differential working

Zero movement when jacked up.

 

Thanks.

Given that there is no mechanical noise emanating, I’d strongly suspect that one of the internal check valves on the pump side has stuck open so that the pump is sloshing oil back and forth instead of moving it in one direction. Repairable in theory. I’ve never been inside one nor have I looked into getting parts.

 

A replacement Eaton 700 pump/motor or complete rear might be tricky to find, but not impossible.  I would start with a call to A to Z. Lincoln only sells parts that he knows are working and he may have one on hand.

 

You can also consider an 1100 pump/motor. Not trivial but, in theory, doable. The belt input will be almost identically positioned, the motion linkage connects somewhat differently and the 1100 has a charge pump for the external lift cylinder. (If you don’t want to get involved with the lift, you can bypass all that with a hydro hose directly from the pump output to the hydro filter input.) The 700 uses a metal collar to align the hydro motor output shaft to the rear axle input gear--the 1100 pump/motor mates up without that collar.

 

Personally, I would consider a complete 1100 rear (probably much easier to come by locally off a parts tractor). Same issue with the lift plumbing bypass and the motion linkage but otherwise pretty much a bolt in.

 

I’ll mention that I was in your position a few years ago with a 518-H where I decided the 700 was iffy. I ended up getting a complete 520-H chassis/transaxle and moving the 518’s engine and other parts over.

[RedWheelz 149]

Took the transmission off. Found the problem. That's the input shaft.

Is the 1100 a direct bolt on or does it require work to make it fit.

[Handy Don 12,436]

11 hours ago, RedWheelz said:

Took the transmission off. Found the problem. That's the input shaft.

Is the 1100 a direct bolt on or does it require work to make it fit.

Yikes, That is messy. Also, I’m concerned about where all the tiny bits of gear teeth wound up in the rest of the transaxle. Condition of the mating gear?

 

You can see the collar between your 700 and the rear end housing casting. The 1100 bolts directly without the collar because the entire 1100 pump motor with the charge pump is longer. . I recall that there were long bolts that went into the left rear wheel well under the brake mechanism that were not fun.

The motion control arm on top of the 1100 extends to the right while the 700’s extends to the left. That means the last part of the actuator linkage between the middle of the tractor and the hydro has to route a little differently (and may be a different length?)

 

I strongly advise that you spend some time with the service manuals for both to get familiar with them before committing to go with a pump/motor only replacement.

 

I’m still recommending a full rear end swap, more now since you (should) now have questions about the condition of the rest of you rear end based on the loose gear teeth.

[RedWheelz 149]

Sorry, that's the output shaft inside the transmission that's stripped 

[RedWheelz 149]

I got a new transmission installed. How do you secure drive pulley to transmission shaft. There's no set screw on the pulley.

[Ed Kennell 38,598]

Is it in the Vee groove?

[cleat 6,313]

Bolt in the end of the shaft holds the cooling fan and the pulley in position.

 

 

[RedWheelz 149]

I forgot about the fan bolt!

Thanks