Balance gears kseries

[redone 45]

Hi Guys. 

Just a little frustraed, ok, I 've installed bother primary. Second dary gears. I am rusty about the timing mark is to be aligned with crank shaft or primary gear tooth? 

Those diagrams and old style pictures really don't get to details. 

Thank a lot

Bill 

[953 nut 55,256]

There are dozens of posts here on balance gears.    Personally I wouldn't put them back in an engine.

.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=balance&type=forums_topic&page=1&nodes=41&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,070]

I am working on a K341 Kohler right now that provides the heartbeat of my 1977 C-160. 
I really didn’t do much to the engine-thank the Good Lord for that because I have very little to no experience with small engine internals.

So last weekend I took a little road trip (about 37 m) up to @kpinnc’s stables so he could help me( actually he did it) remove the balance gears in the K341.

After reading posts and talking to Kevin, I decided the balance gears had to go. He said if anything ends the life of the K341, it would be the balance gears.

Something about if they let go, they may instantly install a window in the block.

He did caution me that removing them would cause the engine to have more vibration.

I decided to remove them knowing that, so out they came.

We also lapped the valves and reset the valve adjustment.

@Lee1977 dropped by and helped also.

 

Edited October 29, 2023 by Horse Newbie

[ebinmaine 67,520]

Another vote for "leave em OUT".  

 

I have 2 running driving K341s. 

The one without balance gears has a different frequency of vibration but I'm not sure it's more. Just different.  

 

I won't be leaving them in any Kohler engine I take apart. 

 

The more we know about the amount of potential issues involving the balance gears the more I believe they should be removed and tossed. 

 

[Gasaholic 224]

I've had no trouble with Balance Gears, BUT! 

 

First, the bearings and the stub shafts have very tiny wear tolerances (Stub shaft has half a thou between new and reject, so you'd need a micrometer that can read 0.500 - 0.4995" accurately, otherwise replace stub shafts & bearings.. which leads to next item..) 

Secondly, the end play in the gears (Used to be a balance gear kit with several shims and new snap rings - I still have, somewhere, several years worth of leftover kit shims, I THINK. Haven't seen them in years though, they're stashed away somewhere in the shop , if I still have em. ..) can be rather fiddly, and when replacing the stub shafts (Press out, press in new) it's important to get the installation pretty precise (not something you can do with a hammer & drift punch - Need a good solid shop press and some measuring skill, and a very clean block.) - Even if you have leftover shims from, past kits, or are just putting things back in place after a cleanup, ALWAYS but ALWAYS replace the snap rings with brand new OEM snap rings 

 

Finally timing - Can be VERY fiddly without the timing tool. (I still have mine - Kohler part number 25-455-06-S - amazingly, still available on ebay as aftermarket tool (made from aluminum, OEM is plastic. The tool makes it extra easy as it holds gears in place while you knock in the crankshaft. 

 

I would agree with the rest however, if you don't have the precision tools and shop equipment to do the above (or new snap rings if not replacing) , you can leave them out - Once they wear past tolerances, it's just a matter of time before they become grenades. Snap rings when re-used almost always sooner or later let go, and then you have a nice big viewing window in the side of your block to watch the engine running (if it didn't break the rod or camshaft, guaranteed the rod dipper is gone either way.) 

[squonk 41,120]

Piston and valve area looks pretty good. I have seen a lot of Kohler piston tops and sides eroded in this area.